Reassembling our clutch pedal linkage tonight: going into a type 9 box.
Reassembling the lever from chassis to gearbox, the central shaft angles back to the gearbox bracket some way.
Is this normal? Doesn't look right to me. It's almost as if the captive threads in the new gearbox bracket have been welded in the wrong place and are forcing the crossmember/pivot lever back. Or am I just worrying too much?!
I would want the bracket to keep the axle of relay lever perpendicular to the chassis rail as it is in the standard installation.
and, like Roy, I would like to see a much sturdier bracket.
I have the same bracket on my T9 conversion, and despite it's fragile appearance, it does stand the test of time. Well I've done about 25,000 miles on it so far anyway.
But the angle in this instance doesn't look right.
My thought is that the misalignment of the relay shaft should be OK on the gearbox side because of the gimbal. But on the other side, the shaft will tend to bind in the bush fixed to the chassis rail.
Perhaps you and Chris can compare dimensions of the bracket to determine whether anything is amiss.
Could there be a difference in the thickness of the engine backplate that would account for the misalignment of the relay shaft?
I would suggest that the front engine mounting towers are checked to ensure that they have been fitted the right way round/correct side.
If fitted the wrong way round/wrong side the engine will be thrown out of position which would effect the alignment of the clutch relay shaft.
The engine mounting rubbers are able to be moved fore and aft on the engine mount towers as the holes for the rubber mounts are slotted for both the bolt and anti twist tag/stud.
A photo of the fitted front engine mounting towers and engine mounting rubbers would be appreciated.
See:- http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... y-bar.html
I am pretty certain the problem lies with the way the front engine mountings/mounting towers have been fitted.
Phil
I'm sure I double checked the correct orientation before we fitted the mounts, but here is a picture.
I can see that by swapping them round it would bring the whole engine and box forwards an inch or so (it was tight when we slotted it in). That also means cutting off and re-welding the crossmember...[frame][/frame]
Well your engine mounts appear to be mounted correctly so that is one possibility removed.
Working backwards can you please post a photo of the rear engine plate & how is your bell housing in relation to the steering rack?
Do you have the fitting instructions and is there a photo or diagram of the way the clutch linkage is fitted?
Looking at the MOSS 5 speed conversion kit your additional linkage bracket appears to be correct. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... sions.html
Has the chassis mounting point for the linkage cross shaft been fitted correctly? and have the two bolts holding the pivot bush been fitted into the correct holes?
The reason for the miss-alignment must be so obvious that we cannot see it.
Phil
Just had a thought and tried the fibreglass housing in the car. Sure enough it fouls the back of the gear-lever. Seems that it will be a case of shifting the whole thing forward.
With the 1275cc engine fitted to my Minor I can easily slide my index finger (21mm) between the rear of the head and the bulkhead cross-member - you appear to have sufficient and similar clearance there.
The engine steady is in the right orientation so I do not think the problem lies forward of the rear of the engine.
What rear engine plate did you fit? - that is the plate between the engine proper and the gearbox adapter bell housing.
All we can do is work backwards and eliminate as we go.
Phil
If you are sure about the engine location - then you will just need to 'adjust' the bracket to suit - or better still, make a much stronger version with the holes in the correct places !
I agree the steady bar looks correct. If we moved the engine forward, we would have to notch the stay to get round the tap fitting. I do have that clearance to the cross member as you suggest.
Not sure what plate it is, I will try and find out. All came with the original kit I guess.
Can't be right that the rack literally sits hard on top of the housing, so something's amiss.
Hard to judge (dimensionally) from the picture on that link Phil, but the casing looks to be the same as the one shown. The plot thickens, and I've had about enough for one night.
Now how do I go about finding out what plate I have? Photos from any particular angle help identify it? I'll try and put some more up tomorrow.
What you are looking for is the thickness of the plate that is sandwiched between the back of the engine and the gearbox bell housing. You will need a small, accurate ruler or better still, vernier callipers.
When you have that figure, you can compare with Chris Ryder, or go back to the supplier of the kit and ask them.
Can't put my finger on my calipers at the moment. Must still be hidden away after the recent *cough, last year, cough* house move!
If it's the black plate behind the engine below, it seems to measure about 10mm, the grey casting measures approx. 180mm if that gives any clues.[frame][/frame]
[frame]