Help, I can't get to the bottom of my running issues...

[Pab_Moggy]

Morning guys, I have been a long time reader of the forums, but this is my first post. I have been trying to read through the forums to find a solution to my problems but nothing seems to be working & I'm at the end of my tether.

As per the title I'm having running issues which I've been chasing for about two months. Previously I'd had the car running really sweet, done long journeys (South Wales to Liverpool & back) with no issues. However, she started playing up a few days after doing the Liverpool run.

I was advised that perhaps the points needed replacing, so while we were there everything except the coil was replaced; points, condenser, rotor arm, dizzy cap, ht leads, spark plugs. The cars been set up perfectly, timing is spot on, mixture is perfect.

I had an issue with the car refusing to start or run without choke, but have managed to sort that now and she runs well without choke, after a little on start up in this miserable weather.

The big issue is power, or lack of it... Low end is fine but there is no power when I need it. I live in a very hilly area and she struggles up hills now that I was easily cruising up previously. That's with just me in the car, if I have a passenger it's a complete no go altogether. As stated I know she can do the hills no issue so it's frustrating that she now refuses.

I'm just looking for a different perspective on this as I can't see where else to look. I've got other things I need to be cracking on with before winter sets in so I need to get the running issues sorted. She's a daily driver and it's becoming too troublesome to the point I'm looking at getting rid and starting again.

The only other avenue I haven't gone down yet is the coil. I'm waiting to see a friend who is going to lend me a coil that is known to be working perfectly & see if that makes any difference? Other than that I'm lost.

It's a '68 1098 2 door saloon.

Apologies if the post is a bit confusing, I'm currently in work and trying to quickly write this post and get as much info across as possible. Please let me know if you need any further details.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice...

[bmcecosse]

The best check would be a compression test to determine the engine condition - but do check and set the valve gaps first. Can we assume the clutch isn't slipping? Assuming the compressions are ok - then perhaps a complete NEW dizzy from Accuspark or Powerspark will be worthwhile - and it won't be the coil - but by all means try another.... Turning to the carb - is the air cleaner element clean? Take it out and try a run without it - any better? Does the carb piston rise and fall nicely - add a teaspoon of oil to the dashpot, although this is more to do with 'gasping' rather than low power. Hope some of this helps!

[Pab_Moggy]

Compression checked, 145 on all cylinders except 2 which showed 125 dry and 135 wet. Valves all checked and set, dashpot level fine, piston fine, air filter whilst not new does seem fine, I may try a short run without it to see if there's any improvement. I was hoping to stay away from electronic ignition if I'm honest.

Any other issues you think could cause this? Could there be a fueling issue?

Thanks for the help so far...

P.S. Clutch seems fine as far as I can tell, what are the tell tail signs of a slipping clutch?

[Pab_Moggy]

Also worth mentioning, I did manage on Sunday to get her managing a steady pace around 30ish uphill, though the weather was a lot more moderate than it has been since so the performance hasn't been repeated, she's sluggish again in the damp & cold. Sunday was by no means perfect, but it was the best performance I've had out of her since the issues started...

[MarkyB]

Is the pipe from the carb to the vacuum advance in good condtion?
An air leak there would give weak mixture and if the vacuum advance isn't working it takes the "pep" out of the engine.

[don58van]

what are the tell tail signs of a slipping clutch?

In short, when accelerating the engine revs rise but the road speed does not increase in proportion with the revs.

Something similar happens when going up a hill -- the road speed does not change in proportion to the engine revs.

Don

[Pab_Moggy]

Hi both, thanks for the replies. I think I can safely say it's not the clutch, fingers crossed! Vacuum has been checked & appears to be operating correctly? I'm completely lost with this...

[Pab_Moggy]

what are the tell tail signs of a slipping clutch?

In short, when accelerating the engine revs rise but the road speed does not increase in proportion with the revs.

Something similar happens when going up a hill -- the road speed does not change in proportion to the engine revs.

Don

To comment further on this, it's not a case of the engine seeming fine and the car going nowhere, the engine is struggling, I've tried tweaking everything but still no solid results.

[amgrave]

It is possible here that some of the parts you have replaced are known to be a bit suspect and it could be this is the problem. Only thing I can recommend is to systematically work through the changes you have made by swooping the new parts with the old parts and see if it makes a difference. You have said you changed the HT leads, check and make sure they are in the right order.

[bmcecosse]

That lowish compression isn't helping - but it's not too bad really. It could of course be fuel supply problem - take the pipe off at the carb and pump a pint into a container - and time it. Should do a pint in a minute. A new dizzy replaces everything and eliminates wear and tear - maybe the advance mechanism has failed/seized up. If you suck the vacuum pipe can you see the dizzy baseplate move and relax when you stop sucking? This may sound crass - but no chance the plug leads have been mixed up? 1342 anticlockwise round the dizzy cap. All being well - try swinging the dizzy back and forth to get the best idle position - then road test to check for pinking - which you don't want of course.

[neilmorey]

Not on a Morris but I've had similar lack of power but also a horrific increase in fuel consumption in the past.
1st time was due to a blocked air filter, inlet hose was disintegrating and choking air flow. Great fun fixing that in the middle of a gale on a winter night in Drumochter pass. The 2nd time was a partially blocked exhaust and end effect much the same.
Just two suggestions to rule out.
Does damp and cold having an effect suggest ignition going to ground possibly? Friend's Fiat X19 in the wet had no power, due to a crack in the distributor cap the spark was tracking down the outside to earth.

[Pab_Moggy]

We've made some progress on this, although not solved it yet. We had another go setting her up, which included rebuilding the carb. Good call as it had been badly bodged. Anyway, got her running like a brand new car, test drove perfectly... However, when checking the timing mark with a strobe she was well out. So proceeded to set her up to the timing mark, awful performance. Huge swings on the dizzy having zero effect, baring in mind we set her up only 2 weeks previously it was shocking that she was so far out again.

I've always had a bit of chain rattle, and it was on the to do list. Our conclusion is that the chain/sprockets are so badly worn that the chain is slipping & sending the timing out. Replacement chain has just become a priority.

Anybody else heard of or experienced this problem? I've heard of if, but not on a moggy before...

[bmcecosse]

Timing marks and strobe are a waste of time....what would you set it to?? Any original setting from 50 years ago is invalid with today's very different fuels. It won't be the chain jumping/slipping....but a worn chain/sprockets will retard the cam timing by a few degrees - and the ignition with it. More likely really is a worn dizzy - balance weights come loose - and/or vacuum advance not working. A brand new dizzy from Accuspark/Powerspark would eliminate all that...

[trabant]

Surely static and strobe timing should net completely different results ? I'd static time it.

[bmcecosse]

The ONLY way to set timing is by 'feel' for best idle - followed by roadtesting for 'not quite pinking'. But first do check the mechanical advance/retard - and the vacuum advance. If either/both is not working it's all a complete waste of time....