Ht leads and dizzy cap advice

[Hillclimb1]

Had to buy a new set of ht leads (push in type) for my 1098 morris minor along with a new dizzy cap to match as the one currently was the screw in type, but confused what order and which lead goes to which spark plugs ect, hopefully they arrive today, will it come with instructions or can anyone guide me what to do please!
Sorry if the subject has already been covered on here, thanks.

[panky]

Hi there, the dizzy rotates ant-clockwise and the leads should be connected to the plugs in the order 1-3-4-2. No1 position on the dizzy is the position that is closest to No1 plug normally.

[simmitc]

Before you take the old cap and leads off, take a photo and note which lead goes to which plug - label the leads if you can. This assumes that what you have already is working OK.

There are many ways you can proceed, just working out which terminal is which on the two caps, but if all else fails:
Cylinder 1 is at the front of the car, nearest the radiator.
Remove plugs 2, 3 and 4.
With the ignition off, car in neutral, and handbrake on, use the starting handle to turn the engine until you feel compression building up. You could also do this with plug 1 removed and you thumb pressed over the hole as you will need to remove the plug so that you can see the piston.
Continue turning the engine slowly until you can see that the piston has reached the top of the bore.
Now look at the distributor. Where the rotor arm is pointing is where the terminal for number 1 cylinder is located. When you place the cap on the distributor you will see which terminal lines up.
Fit the HT lead for cylinder 1. The rest of the cylinders follow anti-clockwise: 1-3-4-2.

As I say, lots of different ways, but the above is relatively simple and not too technical. Hope it helps.

No. 1 HT terminal is usually the first one after the low tension terminal on the side of the distributor body.

[Hillclimb1]

Thanks chaps, there all in the correct order, the car ticks over as it should then gets lazy and comes to a halt, ain't had it running this morning, ain't had it out running for a few weeks. Any ideas?
Again, apologies if this subject has already been discussed, I know some people get pretty vexed when seeing the same thread on multiple occasions.
Would really appreciate any advice thanks.

[panky]

If it starts and runs OK for a while then the first thing to check is if it's getting enough fuel, it could be that initially the float chamber is filling up but drains as the car is running. Take the top off the float chamber and see if it's got any petrol in there, if not then it's ether a blockage in the float valve or a faulty pump. Does the pump click every few seconds when the engine is running?

[Hillclimb1]

Panky, basically the car last month was running fine then one morning decided not to start, been and checked the fuel pump and seems to be fine, it clicks a couple of times then stops, don't know if that's normal? I've already checked to see if it's pumping fuel and it does. I found that one ht lead was cracked which I assumed was the problem so ordered a new set along with a new dizzy cap as they were the push in type, not the old skool screw in, I'm curious whether it's something to do with the battery it's not turning over properly, but don't know.
My brother is a bit of a a series wizard so his going to check it over soon, thanks for the reply

[panky]

Remember it's never the coil
Try condenser first.

[mogbob]

" Comes to a halt " ? As in a sudden halt ( electrical problem ? ) or a gradual halt ( fuel issue ). Was it running well before ?
" Not run for a few weeks " how many ? Any chance the unleaded petrol is a bit stale ?

If fuel issue...dirt in the carburettor carb , check fuel bowl and the float not punctured , Float needle not sticking / clean ?
Fuel pump filter clogged up ? ( have the relevant new gaskets / seals, etc to hand before dismantling or proceed very carefully, with you fingers crossed ).

Electrical ...everything on the ignition side.. good clean / tight connections . Battery , coil , points , rotor arm, plugs , condenser, low tension leads , etc in good nick ? Distributor clamp tight...no chance ( if the clamp were loose ) that the timing has shifted ?

A few things to have a look at.A bit more info to go on would help the gang narrow it down a lot more.
Bob

[aupickup]

the spark plug order is stamped on the manifold as well as tappet clearance

[bmcecosse]

Just put them back exactly the same as the ones that come off. Try the new leads first - DON'T TOUCH anything else meantime...

[simmitc]

I'm a little concerned - the questions started as having to buy new leads and cap, for which advice was given. It now sounds as though the thread should be about a car that runs but then stops. Could we back-track and get a statement of exactly what the root problem is. So, forget the new leads and cap, and start be describing exactly what happens. when you try to use the car.

[Hillclimb1]

Simmitc, I've already said what the issue is, was around 3 weeks ago when I pulled the car out the garage and it refused to start, I investigated to find a broken ht lead which I suppose was the problem, I've only just replaced them along with a new dizzy cap, I was confused as to which order the leads go, they're on now in correct order but the car is not ticking over properly and won't start.
Mogbob, thanks I will check over the morris tomorrow morning and report back, cheers.

[bmcecosse]

If the engine won't start - then there is no chance of it 'ticking over' at all....please explain! Does it start - at all??? If it starts - does it rev up ok - just not 'ticking over' ?? Impossible to help unless you explain exactly what is going on.... I would 'start' by checking the compressions...., but only after double checking the leads are on 1342 anticlock round the cap.

[Hillclimb1]

BMC, the engine is turning over, but will not start up, I'm most certain it's to do with the ignition but like I said ill have a proper check tomorrow

[Hillclimb1]

Apologies I ment I was trying to turn the engine over but no luck

[simmitc]

So the engine won't turn over? Is the battery charged? Does the engine turn freely on the handle? Try a spanner on the end of the starter motor shaft in case the starter has jammed in the flywheel, or ignition OFF, handbrake off, put it in 1st gear and rock backwards and forwards a bit to free it off.

[bmcecosse]

So it gets even more confusing - turning over, then not turning over - ticking over - but not starting.... Please explain ???? And sort out the HT lead order... are they EXACTLY on now as you took off the old ones? Are they 1342 anticlock round the cap? If so - try moving them all round one place at a time.... Is the rotor arm compatible with the new cap? Perhaps refit the old cap and leads - does it turn/tick/run (over) now ????

[Hillclimb1]

Having to buy a new rotor arm, condenser and points, was a wear n tear, obviously the issue why it wouldn't start, appreciate the advice tho

[simmitc]

I'm really, really, confused. Is it turning over or not? Is it idling properly or not? Is it "coming to a halt" or not? We really do want to help you, and are trying to do so, but there seem to be a lot of mixed messages here. Perhaps, if you are still having problems, then you could start a new thread with the appropriate heading and full details of the symptoms. We don't mind covering things that have been covered before, but do need a clear description of any issues if we are to offer the best advice.

If all goes well, you'll become an expert in you own right after a year of fiddling with the car

[bmcecosse]

The new components you are buying may only last a few miles - the quality is often shocking... This is where a complete spare 'known good' dizzy comes into it's own - just drop it in and Bingo - it runs ! It may be worth your while buying a complete NEW electronic dizzy from the likes of Accuspark/Powerspark. Get the later/better 45D model. Drop in and GO.