Lowering Minor
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SGHarris
Lowering Minor
Hey all I'm looking at lowering my morris minor slightly, Lowering blocks for the rear, and read about the torsion bars for the front being slightly tampered with? Don't want it slammed, inch or 2 would be ideal, can anyone point me in the right direction, cheers.[frame]
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Sparticus
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 205
- Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:17 pm
- Location: Diss, Norfolk
- MMOC Member: No
Re: Lowering Minor
*eagerly awaits bmc's reply*
The torsion bars could be moved a couple of splines round... There's a young member called Chris Ryder who has lowered his car 'Bluey' find and ask him.
The torsion bars could be moved a couple of splines round... There's a young member called Chris Ryder who has lowered his car 'Bluey' find and ask him.
Grant, 23, Morris Minor traveller - Saloon. Merlin traveller 90% finished!
DSN Classics
DSN Classics
Re: Lowering Minor
Oh dear - here we go again... 
Just use the search facility...I'm not going over it again.
Just use the search facility...I'm not going over it again.
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IslipMinor
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2147
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
- Location: Oxford, UK
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Lowering Minor
One spline at the front will lower it around 1.5", which would be a good starting point. As the front is lowered, the camber will go more 'positive', which you do not want. The eye bolt can be spaced out with washers between the chassis leg and the eye bolt, but make sure that there is always at least one thread showing beyond the end of the nut on the inside of the chassis leg.
At the back I don't know how much lowering blocks will do, but if you have the earlier (803/948) 7-leaf springs, or a traveller that always has 7-leaf springs, a very easy way to lower the rear is to remove the spring from each side, use 2 G-clamps to hold the leaves together and remove the centre pin. Carefully release the G-clamps until the leaves are free, then take the bottom, shortest leaf, turn it upside down, place it on the top of the longest leaf, align all the leaves, re-clamp them and replace the centre pin. The short leaf is now working against the other 6 leaves and will soften and lower the rear by around 1.5"/2".
If you do lower the car, make sure that the bump stops both front and rear are all present and in good condition, AND cut about 3/4"/1" off them AND reshape them to reinstate the bump 'progression'.
Also drain and refill the dampers with a straight SAE40 oil (not multigrade).
We did this 45 years and 100,000+ miles ago and have never had any problems. You will hear reports about damage to the inner wings at the front, but with SAE40 oil in the dampers and good, reshaped bump stops, you should not have any trouble at all.
At the back I don't know how much lowering blocks will do, but if you have the earlier (803/948) 7-leaf springs, or a traveller that always has 7-leaf springs, a very easy way to lower the rear is to remove the spring from each side, use 2 G-clamps to hold the leaves together and remove the centre pin. Carefully release the G-clamps until the leaves are free, then take the bottom, shortest leaf, turn it upside down, place it on the top of the longest leaf, align all the leaves, re-clamp them and replace the centre pin. The short leaf is now working against the other 6 leaves and will soften and lower the rear by around 1.5"/2".
If you do lower the car, make sure that the bump stops both front and rear are all present and in good condition, AND cut about 3/4"/1" off them AND reshape them to reinstate the bump 'progression'.
Also drain and refill the dampers with a straight SAE40 oil (not multigrade).
We did this 45 years and 100,000+ miles ago and have never had any problems. You will hear reports about damage to the inner wings at the front, but with SAE40 oil in the dampers and good, reshaped bump stops, you should not have any trouble at all.
Richard
