Sticking carb needle

[panky]

If you have an in line filter I would recommend ripping it out, I had a similar problem (engine died and the started after a couple of minutes) but since I took the filter out all has been well Touch wood

[bmcecosse]

Throw away any in-line filter! It's really really not necessary - just a menace!!

[surfergirl]

Think we may be getting somewhere. After cleaning out the float chamber yesterday, it starts but wont run. Petrol level in the chamber has risen cus theres a slight weep around the gasket and a smell of petrol.
So would that be a sticking needle in the float chamber not switching off?
Ive found a new needle and seat, so I could fit that, the manual says check the float hight by measuring with a 1 8th bar between the float and body.

[bmcecosse]

Starts but won't run ?? Is the choke ok - sorry if it seems obvious but we recently had a long tedious multi-problem non-starter that turned out to be a broken choke cable..... I do believe the problem will be Ignition since you seem to have petrol a plenty!

[surfergirl]

Yes got choke, starts runs for about a second or two then dies. Checked the valve gaps, which are fine, no broken springs.
Spark plugs are not wet with petrol. There was a fair bit of white mayonnaise in the rocker cover and damp condensation over the valves.
So to recap; new points & condenser, cleaned pump points & filter, checked valves, plugs seem ok, cleaned out float chamber.
Will try new needle & seat tomorrow in the float and if that makes no difference the new pump should be here.

[bmcecosse]

But you have petrol ! It's not the pump - try to think logically!! The signs seem to show that there must be a blockage between float bowl and jet... Pour a good egg cup of fuel down the carb - start it and immediately clamp your hand over the carb mouth - which should suck in any dirt blocking the jet.

[surfergirl]

So if dirt is getting into the carb, a inline filter must be a good thing? That must mean the one in the pump isnt working. I agree if the float bowl is full it cant be lack of fuel, but the float needle could be sticking giving petrol sometimes and blocking off at other times?

[Trickydicky]

So if dirt is getting into the carb, a inline filter must be a good thing? That must mean the one in the pump isnt working. I agree if the float bowl is full it cant be lack of fuel, but the float needle could be sticking giving petrol sometimes and blocking off at other times?

Have you cleaned the filter in the pump?

[surfergirl]

Thanks,
As I said in the post above the pump filter is clean.
Thanks for the help

[surfergirl]

Thought I had sorted the problem, but its back!
Everything was fine until coming home this eve it started to miss again.
So far:
New fuel pump.
New needle and seat in float chamber.
Swapped coil from intermotor to old Lucas.
new red rotor arm.
new points and condensor from distributor doctor.
Swapped plugs.
Checked mixture strength with colour tune, was rich, now correct.
Pulled a plug out that I fitted yesterday has a pinkish tinge.

[bmcecosse]

Did you do the hand-over-carb trick???

[amgrave]

Next thing you might like to try is a new dizzy cap. Someone on here had a similar prob and it turned out to be that, it had a crack that did not show up till it got warm from the engine.

[surfergirl]

spark plug pic[frame][/frame]I will try a different dist.cap tomorrow.

[bmcecosse]

Suggests 'unleaded additive' and running weak... Are you using the useless additive?

[The Issigonis Kid]

Just spent 10 minutes reading a post with no solution - again - very frustrating.

My car is also suffering from fuel starvation but only when really hot (20 minutes driving and about 20 miles) Looses all power and starts stuttering till it stops. Pull over, give it a minute and it fires straight up. Although last night when it did it, the fuel pump ticked about 10 times really really fast, then it was fine. I've also had it stall in crawling traffic a couple of times. Last year when it did it I replaced the condenser for the Yellow ESM one, fitted a new little wire thing in the distributor and it was fine, thought it was fixed.

From reading this I need to clean the float chamber and look at a filter in the fuel pump ?? 1st question, if I start taking the float chamber apart and messing with the needle, does it all need resetting in a special way.

[panky]

Very frustrating for you. First question is do you have an in-line filter, if yes then rip it out as it's a source of vapour lock (been there ) Simple job taking the top off the float chamber and as long as you don't bend anything on the float then you shouldn't need to re-set anything. But you did say everything was fine for a while after you changed the condenser last time, maybe try another to see what happens and if that cures it then go electronic - it cured all sorts of ills on my car.

[The Issigonis Kid]

Thanks, my car doesn't have an additional fuel filter and I was reluctant to go the electronic route but if I have to replace my distributor to check its working I might as well replace for electronic but its all expense. I might just be a fuel blockage. Or, I might find out the problem persists. The fuel pump starts the car fine and last time it stopped (when hot) the fuel pump ticked very fast about 10 times, then it started. It wouldn't do that if it was faulty would it. I check all my wires on the pump and coil and they seem tight. My condenser is the ESM Yellow wire and the little wire thing was replaced at the same time as the points (although the white plastic bit feels wobble in its housing). BMC has adviced a few people with similar hot stalling problems to check the Vacuum Advance Pipe - I need it investigate this to find out what it is, how to check it and the costs etc. I also need to learn what a rotor arm is. I noticed my air filter is very dirty but was going to swap this when I service the car. Would a dirty air filter cause a car to stall and kargeroo when it gets hot as it feels more like a fuel supply problem. I think the float chamber is the next check. BMC says clean with T Cut but I'm not sure about filling with fuel or oil afterwards ?

[panky]

Do one thing at a time otherwise you could be changing thing for nothing. I think you're confusing the float chamber with the carb piston, I remember Roy suggesting polishing the piston with T cut if it is sticking. Easy way to check this is to take the air filter off, look down the throat of the carb and you should see the piston in the closed position with a small gap at the bottom. Put your finger in and lift the piston all the way up - you should feel some resistance from the dash pot, then let it drop. It should fall and hit the bottom with a little clunk, if it does then no need to take it out for cleaning. The float chamber is on the side of the carb and the lid is held on with three screws, taking these out will allow you to remove the bowl for cleaning if necessary.
The rotor arm is under the distributer cap, is usually black or red and will pull off easily and will only go back on one way. The vac advance pipe runs from the near carb to the diaphragm housing on the side of the dizzy, it can be made of steel tubing or thin black plastic pipe. In either case the ends should be securely fixed without splits or leaks.
Changing the filter wont do any harm, one thing out of the way and less to worry about - change it while you're checking the carb piston and check there's oil in the dash pot while you're there.

[bmcecosse]

In the hot weather I suggest it's having a fit of 'the vapours' - especially when you report the pump ticking fast. The long term answer is to mount the pump lower down in the engine bay - so it has 'flooded suction' from the tank at the rear - or if there is the little plate in the side of the block - fit a mechanical pump instead as fitted to many a Mini - which never get 'the vapours'. I have heard of people wrapping a wet towel round the SU fuel pump in hot weather which seemed to help them - never had to do it myself - but easy enough to give it a try!

[panky]

Yes my pump clicks furiously if stuck in traffic for a while but the engine manages to keep going luckily. Often considered putting a vent in somewhere.