My Engine Rebuild

[James k]

Hi,
As you may know, I've been having various problems with the engine on my Traveller so I've decided to recondition another 1098 engine for it. This is my first engine rebuild. My plan is to do a complete restoration to 'as-new' condition. At the moment I'm intending to do the following:
Rebore with new pistons
Head and block skim
crank regrind
new bearings
new oil and water pumps
new thermostat and housing
new oil seals and grind in valves
Paint engine

Obviously I'll have to check every part carefully to see what needs doing. The engine is missing the rocker cover, timing cover and flywheel. The flywheel I'm planning on swapping over from my current engine but I'd like to get hold of rocker and timing covers. Unlike my current engine, this one does not have a cannister breather, only a downwards pointing pipe from one of the tappet covers, I assume I'll need a rocker cover with a breather pipe.

So far I've taken the rocker assembly and head off and removed the push rods and cam followers. I've labelled the push rods and cam followers so that they stay in the correct order. The valves are a bit rusty and so is the head in parts but it seems good overall. The rocker assembly is very gunked up since it's been stored without a rocker cover so it's got gummed up with dust and oil. I'm going to take it apart to clean and inspect the shaft for wear, I assume I need to keep the rockers in the same order when I put it back together.

What do you recommend for cleaning all the parts? Ideally I'd like to avoid petrol or similar since I'd like to do it inside.

Here are some pictures of the engine and my progress so far. There may be breaks in work since I haven't got all the funds available at once. I'll keep you all updated [frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[James k]

I've now cleaned most of the gunk of the rocker assembly using just kitchen towel and reassembled it. I'm not sure if the rocker shaft needs replacing, there is wear but I don't know how much is permissible. The washers look like they need replacing though. The cam followers look fine to me with the exception of 6 which has some small pits in the top. there is also a nick in the side of 1.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
1-4[frame][/frame]
5-8[frame][/frame]
1[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

The cam followers look fine to me, as does the rocker shaft in the picture.

If you run your finger nail down the rocker shaft, can you detect any ridge between the unworn and the worn sections ?
Some people find it easier to close their eyes whilst checking, so you are not influenced by sight. If there is no discernible
ridge re-use the shaft, unless you want to throw money at the rebuild.

The washer you are holding in the picture looks as though it has a chunk carved out of it, so I agree I'd change it ( and any others in a similar state.

Make sure all the oilways in the rocker pedestal, rocker shaft, etc are cleaned out thoroughly before re-assembling.

Well done so far, carry on the good work.
Bob

[bmcecosse]

NO- at least two of the followers should be renewed - the ones with marks on the base. The shaft is up to you, but seems a pity not to fit a new one since you have it all apart - it is showing some wear. Don't worry about keeping the parts in order.... Paraffin is ok for cleaning - but a bit smelly indoors. You can just use Swarfega and a tooth brush - bit a bit tedious....

[les]

Yes the followers with wear on the base should be replaced, the score mark on the side can be removed with a stone or fine file, I don't agree with not keeping parts in order, things wear into each other. There is at least no disadvantage in keeping things in the same positions when assembling. I know what you mean about petrol but it does shift the muck. I've never been keen on the water based products, although probably safer.

[grumpydad]

Hi
change the cam follower with pitting on the face
the casehardening is starting to wear through
as for the thrust washers on the rocker shaft
just turn them round so you get a new wear face

you will find http://www.minispares.com/
much cheaper than most
and if you join the mini forum for a fiver
you get 10% off all your stuff

[Declan_Burns]

Another good source is:
http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/shop_ ... 098cc.html

They seem to be cheaper than most of the others for a lot of parts.
Regards
Declan

[James k]

Thanks for all the replies. I had another look at the rocker shaft today. It has lots of reasonably deep grooves worn into it so I assume it needs replacing. The bushes on each of the rockers seem fine. I'll replace those two cam followers that are worn.

I took the head off today, removed all the studs and cleaned most of the oil off (just with kitchen towel). I removed a couple of the valves to have a look at the seats, I'll remove the rest when I get hold of a spring compressor. I've attached pictures of the valves, seats and guides. I don't know if the guides will need replacing, what's a good way to measure them? Also, I'm not sure if I should have unleaded seats installed. I'll be doing up to 10,000 miles a year and I want the engine to last.

My next steps will be:
clean up head with wire brush (when the weather clears up)
remove valves
inspect and clean valves
clear out oil and water ways (what is a good method for this?)
have head skimmed and possibly guides and seats replaced
lap valves

Is that about right? Obviously I don't want to and can't afford to throw money at the project so I don't want to do anything unnecessary. But at the same time, I want this rebuild to be the best it can be so I don't want to cut any corners if things really ought to be done. I can always wait to get the money if something would make a significant difference to the engine.

The head when I took it off:[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Cylinder 1 valve seats:[frame][/frame]
Cylinder 1 valves:[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Cylinder 1 valve guides:[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Just waggle the valves in the guides and make your own judgement as to wear. That exhaust valve looks poorly....probably a new set of exhaust valves required. The seats look fine - I would just use as is - after grinding in. With the correct 15 thou gaps, and checking every 3000 miles, there is no need to worry about expensive 'unleaded' seats...

[James k]

So I need not worry about valve seat recession with the 15 thou' gaps? I've wiggled about those two valves and there is noticeable play in the fit. I don't know how much is acceptable. The other thing is that they don't have the groove for fitting the top hat seals.

When it comes to wire brushing the head, which parts can I wire brush and which parts can't I?

[bmcecosse]

The guides don't look oval - but you decide. It all depends on the depth of your pockets. You can superglue the top hat seals to the inlet guides - none on the exhausts. DO NOT wire brush the flat surface of the head. You mention skimming - but no need if the head is flat - check with a steel rule on edge.

[James k]

Don't worry, I wasn't going to wire brush the flat surface! Are there any other bits I should avoid, I assume the valve seats. Would super glue hold the seals on long term? It sounds slightly risky. Is there any disadvantage to using the seals on the exhausts or is it just unnecessary? I'll check the head for flatness, is there no advantage to having it skimmed anyway though?

[bmcecosse]

If it's flat - no need to skim - unless you want to raise the compression ratio. You'll need to 'recut' the exhaust valve seats (at least) - the cheat is to use a square of emery paper, hole in the middle, fit it over an old valve and stick it in the guide - then grab the end with leccy drill and give it a gentle spin or two till the seat looks 'better'. Probably need more than one piece of emery - and of course extensive grinding in to follow. No seals on exhausts - they need the lubrication.

[James k]

I've now started on the block. I've removed the backplate, oil pump, oil filter housing, water pump, sump and oil strainer but I can't work out how to remove the timing gears. Any suggestions?

[bmcecosse]

Undo the nut on the cam sprocket - then VERY CAREFULLY ease the two sprockets forward. Take great care with the cam sprocket if you plan to reuse it - the thin edges are extremely fragile. DO NOT lever against them.... If you hold the sprocket and gently tap the cam back with a mallet (or piece of timber) it should slide off. Don't lose the keys.....

[James k]

How do I remove the nut on the cam sprocket? And also the starter nut. When I try to undo the nut, the crankshaft just turns

[bmcecosse]

Ah well - you need to wedge the crank inside the block - with a lump of timber - nothing metallic. Then prise back the lock tab and hook a set of stilsons on the starter dog, and give it a sharp rap anticlockwise with a 'wee heavy' hammer. It may take a few blows..... Remove the timing cover to reveal the chain. Knock back the lock tab and of course the perfectionists (plenty on here) will advise you to get the correct size spanner/ring key/socket and again undo the nut anti clockwise. It should not be tight. A large adjustable works perfectly well, and in my youth I admit to a sharp rap with a blunt chisel on the edge of the nut frees it off just fine without doing any irreparable damage....

[les]

Ironically enough the socket for that nut is the same size as for the steering wheel nut! Which of course only perfectionists use

[bmcecosse]

I know - but for many youthful years I didn't have such a socket, and so had to 'make do and mend' . Didn't do any harm..

[James k]

I've got stuck on removing the nut The starter dog came off fine with the first touch of an adjustable spanner! The nut on the camshaft sprocket seems immovable though. I've doused it in release oil, wrestled with it with an adjustable spanner, hit it with a chisel several times and stood on the end of the spanner. It just won't budge though