water circulation problem

[crankshaft77]

Hi all. After a bit off work and thinking my radiator was shot I give it a good flush out and the amount of leaf's and berries that came out of it shocked me.Anyway put radiator back in filled it and its hot at both the top and bottom,I,ve had a brand new thermostat fitted,new water pump fitted,the problem is that the hose that connects too the copper pipe which goes into the heater matrix will not get warm,the copper pipe gets warm but it won't beyond that! Any ideas folks?

[panky]

It could be a blockage in the heater or an air lock. Try reverse flushing it with a hose pipe.
But the radiator outlet should be a bit cooler than the inlet, that could be partially blocked too

[minor65]

The rubber hose which connects to the copper pipe is the return from the heater. Is the heater warm with the heater tap / valve open ? If the rubber hose going into the copper pipe is not warm, then I would get engine warm, remove the hose (from copper pipe) and place the end in a empty basin. Then restart engine and hold a steady rev until there is a reasonable amount of water flow. Then once you are happy and the water is clean enough, then reattach the pipe. It is probably just air locked. If no water flow then the valve/tap isn't working or else the matrix is blocked.

[crankshaft77]

Well guys easy fix minor 65 drew my attention too the problem the valve wasn't opening fully and there for sticking when I was opening it gentle push with a screw driver and that was that.Thanks guys your help fully appreciated

[minor65]

Us norn iron people have to stick together

[crankshaft77]

Yeah I,ll remember that next time I have a problem you,ll be tortured

[bmcecosse]

Never shut the valve !

[crankshaft77]

Thinking about changing the heater valve as I believe its playing up.I was looking on bullmotif and they say that there are no reliable cable operated valves at the minute on the market! Would the old tap type fit ok then?

[bmcecosse]

Of course. But still NEVER shut it.....

[crankshaft77]

Thanks I won,t must have been closed when I bought the car and that was sitting a good nine years.

[philthehill]

If you are never going to use the heater tap use one of these or similar.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... c/cylinder head heater take off.aspx|Back to search

You will never have any heater valve problems again.

Or if you want similar :-

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... sic/heater valve.aspx|Back to search
Note the warning regarding dodgy valves.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... sic/heater valve.aspx|Back to search

[crankshaft77]

That does look like a good idea.I take it the minor and mini or the same fit?

[philthehill]

The mounting is the same on the cyl head but the one listed in the first link is 5/8" - so a step down would be required to go from 5/8" to 1/2".

[crankshaft77]

Ok thanks for the advice.

[MikeNash]

If you're never going to shut the heater valve (perhaps like me because you've removed the bypass pipe between the cylinder head and the pump that's fitted up at the front of the engine and just behind the fan) then a new valve seems expensive "non-item". Mine rotted away and I replaced it a couple of years ago with half inch (15mm?) copper bend and bits of pipe soldered into a piece of drilled 1/4 inch steel like so[frame][/frame]

Mmmm, seems I might have a bit of a weep from the lower part of the bend! Apart from that its given no trouble, MikeN.

[crankshaft77]

That looks the job alright mike.