Torsion bar

[Morriemiz]

Just had repairs done to front chassis legs by a competent panelbbeater and gone to put the torsion bars back on I notice one side the lower arm is covering all the spline and other side is covering 20 mm of spline. After measuring the rear anchoring bracket is forward by 10mm. Is 20mm of spline enough, obviously it's been like that all its life.
Any opinion welcome.

[bmcecosse]

Is the torsion bar close against the eye-bolt ? It should be ! Or is there a gap....

[philthehill]

If required - you can adjust/pack the rear of the torsion bar/reaction arm to make sure that you have the maximum front spline covering (of the torsion bar) by the thick lower suspension arm.

[Morriemiz]

Yes it is hard up against the eye bolt, I did think of replacingspring washer with loctite and putting a 3mm washer/spacer between u washer and chassis to gain that little bit more. You really have to force those tie road rubbers in by wedging back the lower arm.

[bmcecosse]

If both are tight against the eyebolt - I don't see why the arm/spline distance would be different each side? The washer you suggest would change the camber setting and not make any significant difference to the arm/spline distance... Yes the tie bar rubbers are tight - which is as they should be !

[philthehill]

What I do is ditch the 'U' Washer (Pt No: SUS125 (BM)) and fit qty one stepped washer (Pt No: AAA145 (MOSS)) either side of the cross-member for better location of the torsion bar rear end. You will not be able to withdraw the torsion bar rearwards through the cross member but I would not strip out the torsion bar that way anyway.

[bmcecosse]

I did consider if that was what was meant Phil - but the bars are said to be tight against the eyebolt....so adding packing in there would only make it tighter! Hence I assume it is the eyebolt that is to be packed out slightly to aid the bar/eyebolt fit. They are in my experience usually tight - and have to be 'fitted together' before pushing the eyebolt home in the chassis leg.

[philthehill]

A little bit more info required me thinks.

[Morriemiz]

My apologies boc for not explaining properly but phill is correct, there is 10mm difference in length between eyebolt hole and rear cross member brace hence when lower arm is connected there is 10mm of spline not being used, and by putting a washer in tween the rear arm/ torsion bar and cross member to push the torsion bar forwards into the lower arm. Thanks for your input.

[bmcecosse]

So -why did you say the T bar was tight to the eyebolt ??? But it does seem that the chassis leg has been fitted in the wrong place....so the wheelbase on that side of the car will be wrong... and the tie-rod will be almost impossible to fit... This will all make for interesting handling.....

[Morriemiz]

I have had it all in and tightened up ready to go and dismantled again checking to make sure I had it right which it was. It's an LCV so body was off and on again with all bolt holes matching up so chassis legs have to be in right position. While chassis was stripped he had it on a proper frame designed to measure the chassis for square and it is spot on. The fault has to be in cross member being out of square. I just want to make sure it's ok, I don't want it stripping the spline going down the road. I will install it again see how it goes, I will try packing the bar forward like Phill suggested.

[bmcecosse]

If it's not the eyebolt hole that's wrong, then yes it must be the rear crossmember. Packing it forward is the answer - if that pushes the T bar tight against the eyebolt. But to do it by 10mm (the distance you give) you need to make sure you retain the location of the T bar in the crossmember.

[Morriemiz]

Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it.

[philthehill]

As mentioned above - to positively retain the torsion bar in the cross member I recommend that you use the stepped washer Pt No: AAA145 (MOSS) either side of the cross member.
If you take this route make sure that the step of the stepped washer is actually at 90 degrees otherwise the step of either washer will not a positive fit and be secure in the cross member.

[bmcecosse]

It may be better to make a special longer stepped washer - to get that 10mm extra length.

[philthehill]

bmc
I agree - but unless you have machining facilities available just fitting the extra stepped washer and plain washers is the easiest option.
Phil

[bmcecosse]

I just wonder about it all hanging on that stud - not so bad when it is 'close up' but when spaced out.... I do agree though - step washers both sides to lock it into the crossmember.