Timeing chain

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meganwilkinson2008
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Timeing chain

Post by meganwilkinson2008 »

Hi can anyone give me some advice. I have a new duplex timing chain kit for my 69 traveller and wanted to know if you have to use the felt washer that is with the old one and also am i correct in thinking the starter dog is a 3/4 whit long socket. Any other advise would be appreciated thanks.
chesney
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by chesney »

The felt seal is for early timing covers, up to the 948's, (1960 end?). You should use only the rubber lip seal in the cover.
Not sure what size the starter dog is, but I'd put money on it being AF. I've always used a stilson wrench to remove (or a chisel for stubborn ones, and replaced afterwards) as I don't have a socket that fits over.
Advice, make sure the oil thrower disk goes back the right way round. Also, when putting the cover back on, loosely refit all bolts, then fit the pulley (to align cover), tighten up all accessible bolts, and remove pulley to do the rest.
Also, don't forget to knock the starter dog lock tab both ways (aka into the pulley, and onto the starter dog) when refitting.
philthehill
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by philthehill »

The correct size for the starter dog is 7/8 BS - 3/4 Whit.
As above preferably use the later timing cover Pt No: 12A1419 with the lip seal.
If using the crankshaft damper use crankshaft bolt Pt No: TAM2019 ('A' Plus), AEA312 (998cc) or 12A283 (1098cc).
The correct oil thrower disk for the use with the duplex chain and later cover is Pt No: 12A1148 and is marked 'F' for front and is of a much flatter profile.

bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

Be sure to countersink the holes in the front plate deep enough to take the screw heads. Stilson wrench is best for starter dog renewal - hook it round, rest it on the chassis leg - place an old towel on top, remove spark plugs and jab the starter to spin the engine....
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meganwilkinson2008
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by meganwilkinson2008 »

Hi many thanks for all the advice that stilton wrench sounds like a great idea.I was going to use my rachet gun but that sound like the job. thanks again.
bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

Ratchet gun may be difficult to get in - and you would need a long socket.... The stilson works - the towel is to stop it 'flying'... Wise to remove the radiator first though.....
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les
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by les »

---or you could just Tighten it to the correct torque of 70 ft lb ! :D

bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

This is to loosen the dog - which is usually well stuck in place after many years......
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les
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by les »

Oh righto, :oops: hopefully the info will help when putting it back though! :D

bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

Indeed! No need for it to be super tight.
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philthehill
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by philthehill »

bmc
You are right about the starter dog possibly being difficult to undo after many years of being in the same position - I have just had great difficulty undoing the crankshaft bolt on a 'A' Plus engine and that was using the Churchill crankshaft spanner Pt No: 18G98A. So I would advise take great care if using a Stilson wrench.
Phil

bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

The starter usually jogs it free without any great problem - it is much easier to loosen this while the engine is still in the car - than to be struggling on the bench with it. I once had a Mini engine where the bolt was so tight (and probably Loctited) that the head of the bolt sheared off on me as I struggled to loosen it..... Took a lot of drilling out and scraping threads to get it cleared...
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philthehill
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by philthehill »

Bmc
The only way I could undo the bolt was to take the sump off and place a piece of wood between the crank web and the crankcase so as to stop the crankshaft turning. It was still hard to undo even then but I got there eventually and no damage to the threads or block.
I usually fit a Sykes Pickavant flywheel locking bar (Pt No: S-P 085105 (a really useful tool)) when undoing the pulley bolt but the Marina 'A' Plus came without a flywheel; and of course the spare Midget flywheel I have will not fit the Marina crankshaft.
In case of possible problems with the starter dog threads I have a 5/8" UNS tap which has been used a few times already cleaning up the threads in crankshafts and the by-pass hose adapter holes in 940 heads.
Here is a link to a 5/8" UNS crankshaft tap (with full explanatory details) but these taps are expensive to buy even off 'e' bay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMC-A-Series- ... 234be4f1d9

I have now done away with the starter dog/pulley bolt and now use one of these. Much easier to tighten and undo.

http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/C-AHT147.aspx

Phil

meganwilkinson2008
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by meganwilkinson2008 »

Great advice thanks. I was going to take the front panel off to get good access to the front of the engine is this nessasary or can you leave it in place ?
bmcecosse
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by bmcecosse »

It will certainly help - but not necessary if you are willing to wrestle around it!
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katy
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Re: Timeing chain

Post by katy »

I usually fit a Sykes Pickavant flywheel locking bar (Pt No: S-P 085105 (a really useful tool)) when undoing the pulley bolt but the Marina 'A' Plus came without a flywheel
Another alternative would be to bolt a piece of angle iron or flat iron the the crankshaft flamge
Talk slow, think fast!
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