Replacing rear bump stop - process

[mattinhertford]

Hi all,

I seem to be missing a rear bump stop on one side. See pic. I've read up on how to replace but i have a couple of additional questions.

Process appears to be:
1) Raise rear of car.....book says sling up rear bumper brackets but i have no kit for that so any other suggestions? As I'm not removing the rear spring then can i jack up the car on the rear spring hanger?
2) Support weight of rear axle.
3) Remove u-bolt nuts.
4) Raise u-bolts until they come free

Then fit new bump stop with new u-bolts/nuts. I was going to get new rubber pads too, the ones that go top and bottom of the spring.

While I'm doing this, are there any other bits I should be replacing/upgrading?

Thanks

Matt[frame][/frame]

[chesney]

Support the spring, not the axle. The axle is mounted over the springs, so if you undo the U bolts, the axle will go with it!
Make sure it's well supported, use more than one axle stand. Get some penetrating fluid on the U bolt nuts now, to give them a chance. You could take the time to inspect the spring perch and ensure it hasn't rotted through.

[bmcecosse]

Probably be wise to renew both sides... And treat the dampers to a drain and refill with SAE40 oil.

[mattinhertford]

Ok, thanks both.

[philthehill]

And whilst you have it apart it may be a good idea to replace the spring pads Pt No: ACA5138 (rubber) - ACA5138SPK (MOSS) - poly.

[stanley0070]

And whilst you have it apart it may be a good idea to replace the spring pads Pt No: ACA5138 (rubber) - ACA5138SPK (MOSS) - poly.

And when you have finished have a cup of tea....

[philthehill]

[frame][/frame]

[mattinhertford]

Job done, both sides. Surprisingly easy when you take it slow and follow instructions. Put new u-bolts and rubbers on both side, had a clean up too.

I like it when a job is simple and done in a day, as opposed to taking everything apart, finding a further problem, having to order and wait for new parts etc etc [frame][/frame]

Happy!

Matt

[bmcecosse]

You may want to cut an inch off the stops to give better suspension travel without the 'thump' on the stops every time you drive over a leaf..... Have you changed the rear damper oil to SAE 40 ?

[les]

Well done for using the right nuts and having equal amount of thread protruding. Not everyone does.

[mattinhertford]

You may want to cut an inch off the stops to give better suspension travel without the 'thump' on the stops every time you drive over a leaf..... Have you changed the rear damper oil to SAE 40 ?

Ah, will consider that option BMC, thanks. Next, or nearly next job on the list is rear seat belts, as not really had any passengers in the car yet, but when fully loaded with wife and two kids then I imagine a bit more space between the bump stop and body would be a good thing!

Haven't changed the damper oil as they were 'new' when I bought the car a year ago, but will add that to the list to check.

Matt

[philthehill]

Matt
A job for another day.
Take the spring leaves apart and clean the crud from between the spring leaves.
From your photo the crud is pushing the leaves apart.
Could lead to a broken spring if left to get worse.
Phil

[mike.perry]

You will always find out that you need new parts at lunchtime on Saturday

[mattinhertford]

Matt
A job for another day.
Take the spring leaves apart and clean the crud from between the spring leaves.
From your photo the crud is pushing the leaves apart.
Could lead to a broken spring if left to get worse.
Phil

Good idea, thanks Phil. Although I think new springs may be on the cards anyway, I'm pretty sure one of the leaves has broken on one side, and I imagine if you replace a full spring on one side of the car then you may as well do it on the other.

Doh!....just checked for price on Bull Motif and for £114 (inc VAT I can get the full set for both sides - springs, pads, u-bolts, nuts, poly bushes etc)....so would have been much better for me up front to have bought this than what I am effectively doing which is buying in two lots since I already have new u-bolts, pads, buts....oh well, you live and learn
http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=4588

When removing the springs you obviously need to undo that 'pin front eye' thing, with the two holes in the head to hold it tight while you unbolt from the other side......do I need to buy a tool for that head??

Thanks

Matt

[philthehill]

As regards replacing the springs - it is better to replace both as you will put extra strain on the new spring.
A pair of S/H springs from a known source may be a good bet and will be definably cheaper - but give them a good look over before purchasing and try to keep them the same side and orientation as original when fitting S/H.
For examples from 'e' bay:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-Minor- ... 566c0ac388

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-Minor- ... 3aa7c8c6a1

The pin on the front (Pt No: GFH202 or ACH5180 (MOSS)) can be undone without the special spanner - provided there is enough rust to hold the pin steady. You may have to take out the pin and plate front pin (Pt No: ACA5271 (MOSS)) together. Sometimes it is easier to cut off the pin nut (Pt No: GFH202 (MOSS)) and pin plate bolts/nuts then knock out the pin and plate in one go. On re-assy replace pin (£3.65) and plate (£5.26) and the qty 4 bolts/spring washers/nuts.
Put plenty of copper grease around the head of the pin so it will come apart easy next time.
Phil

[mattinhertford]

Thanks Phil, all very useful info.

I've another question while we're in that area of the car

Ref removing the rear pin of the spring, so that I can lower the spring away from the body to do some welding in the very rear corner of the boot (drivers side to start with).

Is this the process:

1) raise rear of car on that side and support it firmly.
2) remove wheel
3) place supports under spring (with axel stand) in the position its in i.e. slung low by its own weight
4) undo the bolt/pin holding the spring to the body
5) lower the spring out of the way

Is that right? I just need it a few inches out of the way, and not putting any stresses or strains near the pin support as I am cutting out some rust in the rear boot corner. I don't think the rust extends to the point where the spring bolt goes through, but just incase it did I wanted to relieve the strains in that area so nothing twists.

Any guidance fully appreciated

Matt

[bmcecosse]

Sounds ok to me...

[philthehill]

I agree with above but to get a proper working clearance you will need to undo and remove the rear spring eye pins on both sides.
It is surprising how much the axle will hold up the disconnected spring if only one side rear spring pin is removed.
Best of luck with the job and make sure that the car is well supported and secure before you get anywhere near the under side of the car.

[bmcecosse]

And beware the tank of petrol sitting alongside.....

[mattinhertford]

super, thanks both. Will let you know how it goes.

Will probably drain petrol tank before welding anyway.

Matt