Brake light switch problems

[nwxh]

So I probably have to jack up the car to access the master cylinder to replace the brake line I pinched. Should I jack up the front and put axle stands under both front wheels (axles) or is either and of the crossmember better?

[bmcecosse]

When lifting the front - support securely (ie not piles of bricks...) under the chassis legs near the front - usually under where the tie-bar joins the leg.

[nwxh]

So axle stands where the red is and jack where the green is?[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

I would jack under each chassis leg.

[nwxh]

Cheers! Do I actually need to jack both sides or can I just jack the drivers side?

[bmcecosse]

Up to you......

[nwxh]

Cheers for the help.

M/C to union and right way to union brake lights replaced and new union fitted. In the end I just jacked up one side. In the end, I had to get the union off with the M/C line still on. Still got to bleed.

Can I check that the following is correct:
The routing from the M/C is directly from the M/C itself (this surprised me), up and over the crossmember, through two clips with circular ends whose flat ends are screwed into the chassis leg, then up into the engine bay. Does it matter how it enters the engine bay (currently through the open space and bent to be away from any metal)? Also do I need to make sure the brake lines are under all the metal supports?

[bmcecosse]

The route is up to you, and yes the brake lines should be 'secured'.

[nwxh]

Cheers!

Ok bleeding isn't working. The brake fluid level is returning to what it was before a brake pedal press, about 5 seconds after each press. Is this an air leak?

One of the pipes didn't screw into the union as much as the others. Perhaps this is the suspect?

[bmcecosse]

They must all screw firmly home. Are you using a tube and a jam jar? Do you have an assistant to press and hold down the pedal ?

[nwxh]

Firmly home as in until no more thread left? I thought they'd always be some left over due to the taper, although there appears to be too much compared to the others for the front right wheel pipe at the union.

I'm using a one-man brake bleeder, though I'm not convinced it's making a good connection. Actually the issue seems to be clearance with the ring spanner beneath.

I do also have a pipe for use with a jam jar, however It'd be nice to squeeze out the old fluid at the same time.

[bmcecosse]

Obviously you must squeeze out old fluid to expel the air. It will work - is there some fluid in the jar to make the seal ?

[nwxh]

Obviously you must squeeze out old fluid to expel the air. It will work - is there some fluid in the jar to make the seal ?

There wasn't with the one-man kit but a valve, but I'll try the other way tomorrow. Cheers! Didn't know it worked without a valve/tightening the nipples because I thought it would just suck in the old fluid again.

The 7/16 ring spanner doesn't fit nicely. Is this a sign that the bleed nipples are rusty and want replacing?

[bmcecosse]

The one-man kit tube should sit in a jam jar with some fluid covering the tube end. Some bleed nipples are 11mm these days - or just badly worn 7/16 which an 11 mm ring may fit better. Open the nipple 1/4 turn or so - then press the pedal down and hold it there for a couple of seconds - then let it come up slowly - and repeat a few times... Close that nipple - top up the master - and move on to the next nipple.

[nwxh]

Cheers, will try just a 1/4 turn. I assume it's anti-clockwise, bleed, and then clockwise. I was turning it 3/4 of a turn anti-clockwise for the front wheel. Couldn't loosen the rear left nipple, so might have to jack up to get better torque.

[bmcecosse]

There should have been no need to go near the back - you only disturbed the front - however, start again at the front and then move to the rear, Will no one help you ? Even by just watching to see if air bubbles come out the tube ?

[nwxh]

There should have been no need to go near the back - you only disturbed the front - however, start again at the front and then move to the rear, Will no one help you ? Even by just watching to see if air bubbles come out the tube ?

I'll do some persuading. I thought that if one part was disturbed the rest would need bleeding. But if the brakes are firm after bleeding the flood, I'll "let sleeping dogs lie" until I need to adjust the rear brakes.

Does this assume the master cylinder level didn't become too low? A little fluid ooozed out when the pipe was removed from its side.

[nwxh]

I reckon I didn't have a tight enough seal on the bleed nipple, but it seems like the nut is too high, so hard to get a good firm grip. Will look for bubbling tomorrow which will indicate a good seal.

[nwxh]

I bled it with wheels removed, which allowed me to ensure a good connection and get enough torque on the stubborn one. The brakes seem to be working correctly now, as do the brake lights, but will check fluid level tomorrow.

One of the adjusting screws is missing from one of the hubs (assuming they all want two). Also, how do I know when hubs/nipples/cylinders will need replacement?

Many thanks!

[814XUW]

I'm not sure quite what you're referring to, but I assume you mean the two screws on the drum face that screw into the hub, to hold the drum to the hub. Ideally two are needed, though I've seen some with one or no screws fitted.
The hubs should not need to be replaced unless damaged by a spun bearing or similar, the bearings can and do fail though, this should be checked with the wheel jacked up. The cylinders need replacing if they are leaking or seized/seizing, otherwise I'd leave them as their quality is likely to be better than modern reproductions.
Nipples shouldn't need changing unless damaged (rounded off?) either, but if you fit a new cylinder, you should use the nipple supplied with it (if included).