Oil leakage

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Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

In NL only the vehicle number is registered (as in the floor). I send an email to the supplier if he can provide me with the original engine number (I don't have high expectations).
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Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

My Morris was imported from UK in 1998, and I bought it that year. Originally a 2 doors saloon, modified (in UK) to a tourer. I have the original registration number and checking on https://www.vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk
Gives following:[frame]Image[/frame]

The car number is MA2S51103492, and (actually of no use now anymore) former engine number 10V/189E/H48557. I assume this engine was not the original delivered with the car. Modifications had been done by previous owners. When I bought it, a 948 backplate, flywheel, clutch and gear box were fitted. I did rebuild it all to 1098 version.
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philthehill
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by philthehill »

I am happy to be corrected but your car will always be known as car No: MAZS51103492 even though it has been converted to a convertible type.

bmcecosse
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by bmcecosse »

Indeed! And just use that engine number!
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Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

I contacted the supplier to get the original engine ID of the block I bought. Their reply: "The engines loose there engine number as part of the recondition. I am afraid we do not retain these numbers."
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bmcecosse
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by bmcecosse »

So you are safe to assume that it's gone - and are now free to use the number you have on the engine now in the car!
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Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

Engine is running and sounds better than before! 8)

Ran it idle for 20 minutes, drove short distance for heating it up.
Oil pressure 46 psi when idle, over 60 when driving.
One leaking point: Oil pressure switch (the switch, not the thread), probably damaged at removing or refitting. Needs to be replaced.

When i fully lift the pin under the carburator, the engine slows down. Lifting only 5mm, no change in revolutions. What does this mean?
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bmcecosse
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by bmcecosse »

Well done ! Means it's pretty much right! But early days - you need to retorque the head now and set the valve gaps. Then a good run , and optimise the timing and the carb with that fully warm engine. 60 psi running.....hmmm ....is that with 20W50 oil ?
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marksman
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by marksman »

hello
i have a 58 morrie i brought for my daughter ,its been running fine until a new oil filter has been fitted even then run sweet ,but the last two days its dropping a lot of oil on start up in morning from around oil filter housing , could any one please explain why this might be
thank you
jagnut66
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by jagnut66 »

Hi,
When I first got my car the engine number didn't match the registration documents. I think as long as it's an 'A' series and looks the same no one will care. They certainly don't check on the MOT.
For the record when I changed to a 1275 I did notify the DVLA and that is probably the first time the engine number on my docs has been correct for years.
Personally I wouldn't worry about it.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels, now being sprayed by me, slowly......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1952 Morris Minor MM highlight with sidevalve engine still fitted, wants work, so joins the queue for now......
Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

marksman wrote:hello
i have a 58 morrie i brought for my daughter ,its been running fine until a new oil filter has been fitted even then run sweet ,but the last two days its dropping a lot of oil on start up in morning from around oil filter housing , could any one please explain why this might be
thank you
My new oil filter came with a set of rubber rings (3 if I remember right). I used the best fitting one in the head, fitting a too small one will give you leakage.
Is the rubber washer under the bolt head in good condition?
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Theo_NL
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Re: Oil leakage

Post by Theo_NL »

bmcecosse wrote:Well done ! Means it's pretty much right! But early days - you need to retorque the head now and set the valve gaps. Then a good run , and optimise the timing and the carb with that fully warm engine. 60 psi running.....hmmm ....is that with 20W50 oil ?
Retorqued and set the valve gaps. Minor adjustments only. With a fully warm engine driving 30 mph the oil pressure gauge shows 65 to 68 psi. With Castrol 20W50.
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