Engine cut out and backfire

[James k]

I did retorque the head myself after the first heat cycle but not with a torque wrench. I just tightened the bolts until I could feel them about to yield as you recommended bmc. I told them about it at ESM so the said they'd check them. The did tell me that they checked them and that they were all fine so I suspect they didn't actually have to tighten them. Hopefully that's okay.

Regarding the missing stud, are there any other ways of getting one out? I don't have any welding equipment. I suspect that the exhaust is leaking ever so slightly as there is a small amount of black marking around the manifold where the stud is missing. Could this contribute to loss of power.

I should say that it's not that underpowered and I may be expecting too much from it but I don't know. It can get up reasonable hills fine but it has to be revved a lot in second. In third it just doesn't have the power and crawls up.

[Chipper]

Depending on how much stud is left in the head, you may be able to try the 2 nuts locked against each other method, Mole grips, and/or file a couple of flats opposite each other so that you can fit a suitable sized spanner (or grips) to turn the stud.

If the stud is broken off flush with the head, you could try cutting a slot in the end with a Dremel, padsaw, etc., and using a screwdriver bit in a socket wrench to turn it.

[bmcecosse]

Without removing the head - it's going to be difficult unless you are v lucky.... Pulling the nuts up to 'yield' is perfect....

[James k]

There's about half an inch of bolt left.

[bmcecosse]

It's a stud.....and there is a good reason these are fitted with BRASS nuts.....to prevent the stud snapping. So if there is half an inch of stud - is that beyond the manifold flange ?? Is there not enough to get a new nut on it??

[James k]

It did have a brass nut, but still snapped somehow. There's not enough stud left to put a washer and bolt on.

[bmcecosse]

Strange ! Forget the washer..just put a NUT on it!!!

[James k]

Hello again,
I'm going to be back in England for a week in about two weeks time so I intend to fit a new distributor. I'm going to get the simonbbc electronic 45d. As far as I understand, to fit it I need to:

set engine to TDC on cylinder 1
remove old distributor by undoing the two bolts
insert new distributor so that the rotor arm is in the cylinder 1 position
bolt the new distributor down
start the engine and loosen the distributor clamp
rotate distributor to get smoothest idle
drive it uphill and keep advancing the timing until it pinks then back off a tiny bit.

Is that all correct or have I missed anything? Any other things I should look out for when replacing it?

Thanks
James

[James k]

Also, I'm not entirely sure how to listen for pinking. My engine has a rattly timing chain so I'm worried that would drown it out :/

[mogbob]

James

Clean up the base / clamp area with degreasant if it is heavily soiled.You don't want a whole lot of muck / dirt / crud falling into the engine when you remove the old distributor.With the surrounding area clean ,wipe out the hole with a clean rag / paper towel to ensure it's spotless.Clean up the clamp,two bolts, washers for re-use.

To help you " insert new distributor so that the rotor arm is in cylinder 1 position " note the orientation of the distributor body relative to the engine block.Draw a diagram or take a picture on the camera / phone.

Whilst inserting the new one, using both hands,hold the rotor arm in the correct position and it will be easier to wiggle the off-set key ( on the bottom of the shaft ) into position.Dab a few drops of engine oil on the exposed shaft to aid insertion.You should hear a clonk as it settles into position.Try moving the rotor arm left and right, a little, and you should feel resistance.

This will prove to you that it is installed correctly i.e. sitting down in the cut out for the off-set key.If it's not... then lift the
distributor slightly and try to engage it again...it will " feel right "

Tighten the distributor clamp sufficiently, so that you can still rotate it by light hand pressure ( you don't need to have a wrestling match with it ).Tighten it firmly when you are happy with the idle.Repeat after the test drive if you are not happy with the performance.Get the engine warmed up first and then listen to the change in engine noise, when you move the distributor position.
Your basic list is fine.Good luck with it.
Bob

[bmcecosse]

It should fit in with the rotor arm in exactly the same position as the old one came out. Then yes - at 1 TDC and trial run it as you describe.

[James k]

Thanks,
hopefully it will all go smoothly! I'm rather excited about fitting it now! Do you think I'll be able to hear the pinking over the timing chain rattle?

[bmcecosse]

Yes - but if the chain is rattling THAT badly...you should have some plans for it....

[James k]

I'm not entirely sure how bad it needs to be before it really needs replacing. It is rattling but it doesn't sound like it's extremely loose. I.e, it's not overbearing and is clearly coming from under the timing cover. I do intend to replace it at some point but I'm not sure how difficult that will be.

[morris van]

Two weeks ago I was out in my MG Midget and that kept back firing and then packed up. I got it started and drove home and as I put it in the garage it back fired and stopped again and refused to start so I replaced the points and condenser then when to start it and the distributor had moved round 180 degrees and I had not loosened it. I have decided to replace the engine as it was on its last legs anyway

[bmcecosse]

You mean the dizzy had physically swung round 180 degrees?? It must have been loose if that happened.

[morris van]

No all I did is change the points and condenser nothing else was touched something has come adrift inside the engine.

[bmcecosse]

It's always possible...but extremely unlikely..... So does the engine not run now - or does it run when you move the HT leads round 180 ?? Or have you simply not fitted the rotor arm correctly........... Turn it 180 degrees and click it down on the shaft properly........

[kennatt]

something has come adrift inside the engine.

can't see there's anything in there that can,got to be on the outside.

[morris van]

The engine was on its last legs anyway as it had been using and dropping a lot of oil and a lot of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust and had been over heating for a while and I had thought of replacing the engine anyway and the distributor had not been moved .I have got another engine which has been rebuilt and I have taken the old one out.