van back
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MarkyB
- Minor Maniac
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Re: van back
Some pictures would help us see what is going wrong.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: van back
ok thanks will get some tonight
Re: van back
If you've got the correct panels the heights etc will be predetermined and correct. I'm presuming you are referring to the actual body work as opposed to the chassis itself? Has the chassis had any work done to the rear sections that might have altered the body mounting position? As mentioned a picture would give a better idea than your description. I might have a few photos but will wait for a response first.
Re: van back
yes I got panels from mm centre Birmingham(rep 608 ) & ( rep609 ) I have taken some photos will try my best to download them thanks for getting back cheers
Re: van back
dudeman wrote:can any one help me with fitting panels to van back at end of chassic as back seems to be to low down
Re: van back
heres photo of the rear[frame]
[/frame]
Re: van back
You should be assembling the floor as a complete unit first, you will then find the heights match, your van sides should be level with the rear panel. Hopefully if these pictured come out you will get the general idea.There is another panel that covers the one you show in your picture, again get that on before fitting the sides
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POMMReg
- Minor Legend
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Re: van back
First thing I noticed was/is the rear indicator light hole being too low - only the
stop/tail light below the floor level - I think?
Have you tried putting the floorboards in - with the aid of a spirit leve see where
the problem is?
Two long pieces of wood should determine the prob - you have fitted the bkts to
the rear inner panel?
Personally, I'd brace the body sides together - dexion between the hinge holes.
Les is best qualified for advice.
stop/tail light below the floor level - I think?
Have you tried putting the floorboards in - with the aid of a spirit leve see where
the problem is?
Two long pieces of wood should determine the prob - you have fitted the bkts to
the rear inner panel?
Personally, I'd brace the body sides together - dexion between the hinge holes.
Les is best qualified for advice.
Further investigations uncovered it was an inside job!!
Re: van back
are u sure you have they panels the right way
Re: van back
Yes I am sure. The picture is looking from underneath. In other words the photo has been taken with the floor upside down!
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POMMReg
- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:17 pm
- Location: Gloucester
- MMOC Member: No
Re: van back
Confirmed by the fuel filler tube hole being on the o/sles wrote:Yes I am sure. The picture is looking from underneath. In other words the photo has been taken with the floor upside down!
Further investigations uncovered it was an inside job!!
Re: van back
ok understand now thanks
Re: van back
hi les is there any way you can give some sizes . from ground up to front pin spring hanger .And from ground up to BACK chassis leg
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IaininTenbury
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Re: van back
A few points which may help.
The floors sit on top of the inner rear cross member - the one you have bolted to the chassis.
The floor level should intersect pretty much halfway between the taillight and the indicator - recommend jacking up each lower corner of the body behihd the back wheel arch to get this height.
The rear pillars/box section - half of that extends down below the floor level and welds to the inner rear cross member (before the outer panel goes on). Most people miss this as theres rarely any original metal left to see how it should be and it really helps to add strength to the rear body, stopping the flexing and the back door rattle that many vans have...
One of the first things I would do with yours is to refit the back doors. Whatever repairs need doing, the back doors have to fit and sit square and level and its easiest to rebuild the back end round the back doors rather than finding later that they don't fit too well.
Don't get too hung up about fitting the outer rear cross member just yet. Get the floors and arches installed, the inner rear crossmember fitted and the sides joined to it so the door gaps are right. You may find the outer panel is a little long then to fit in the space and will need trimming slightly (If you force it in it pushes the door gaps apart and you get a tapered door gap where they meet in the middle).
Hope some of that helps and makes sense
The floors sit on top of the inner rear cross member - the one you have bolted to the chassis.
The floor level should intersect pretty much halfway between the taillight and the indicator - recommend jacking up each lower corner of the body behihd the back wheel arch to get this height.
The rear pillars/box section - half of that extends down below the floor level and welds to the inner rear cross member (before the outer panel goes on). Most people miss this as theres rarely any original metal left to see how it should be and it really helps to add strength to the rear body, stopping the flexing and the back door rattle that many vans have...
One of the first things I would do with yours is to refit the back doors. Whatever repairs need doing, the back doors have to fit and sit square and level and its easiest to rebuild the back end round the back doors rather than finding later that they don't fit too well.
Don't get too hung up about fitting the outer rear cross member just yet. Get the floors and arches installed, the inner rear crossmember fitted and the sides joined to it so the door gaps are right. You may find the outer panel is a little long then to fit in the space and will need trimming slightly (If you force it in it pushes the door gaps apart and you get a tapered door gap where they meet in the middle).
Hope some of that helps and makes sense
cheers
Iain
Fairmile Restorations.
'49 MM, '53 convertible, '55 van, and a '64 van.
Marina p.u., '56 Morris Isis Traveller, a '59 Morris JB van, a'66 J4 van, a '54 Land Rover, Land Rover 130, Renault 5, '36Railton, '35 Hudson, a Mk1 Transit and a Sherpa Camper...
A car can be restored at any time, but is only original once!
Iain
Fairmile Restorations.
'49 MM, '53 convertible, '55 van, and a '64 van.
Marina p.u., '56 Morris Isis Traveller, a '59 Morris JB van, a'66 J4 van, a '54 Land Rover, Land Rover 130, Renault 5, '36Railton, '35 Hudson, a Mk1 Transit and a Sherpa Camper...
A car can be restored at any time, but is only original once!
Re: van back
The measurements you asked for are as follows, according to my van. Height to rear chassis leg, from centre of shackle pin hole--15 3/4''. Height to centre of front spring pin---8 1/2''. This all depends on the size of wheels fitted the state of the springs and suspension setting though. so may not be too much help in determining the levels.
Iain is right about not fitting the last rear panel until the sides are on, so enabling the extended piece to be secured. My previous post, suggesting fitting it before, was incorrect. The picture shows this extended leg, which I decided to fix to the inner panel with 2 m6 set screws and nuts. I did in fact fit this rear cover panel first, so now I'm left wondering how I managed to bolt the flange in place!
Iain is right about not fitting the last rear panel until the sides are on, so enabling the extended piece to be secured. My previous post, suggesting fitting it before, was incorrect. The picture shows this extended leg, which I decided to fix to the inner panel with 2 m6 set screws and nuts. I did in fact fit this rear cover panel first, so now I'm left wondering how I managed to bolt the flange in place!
