Oil pumps

[biomed32uk]

Well, the block has gone off down to a local engineering place to run through a hot wash process, I didn't make a bad job of it but that will finish it nicely.

I got one of the cranks off the guy on ebay but that looks a non starter, its going to need a grind, way beyond any polishing. I spent some time with mine last night and at close inspection it does not look too bad, the place the block has gone for cleaning does crank grinding so I am taking it down to them for a look at, a full grind is £70. I have a spare crank in stock now, one day I will get it cleaned up and ground ready to go, cover it in wax / grease and into stock.

Parts ordered, pretty much everything cleaned up to be spotless so the rebuild can start once I have the crank sorted out.

Duplex chain kit going on, and I am trying one of the rear oil seal conversions, other than that a standard build back up.

Whats the significance of the extra hole in the camshaft thrust plate ?, must be there for a reason.

[philthehill]

Glad to hear that you are making progress.
As regards the rear crank seal kit:- if you have bought it all well and good. If you have not I personally would not bother.
Tried the seal kit on my minor and found it totally overrated. Removed the seal kit and sold it on with a new seal.
If you have assembled your engine correctly you will not need the seal kit. The crankshaft scroll on my engine works as it should and keeps the oil from coming out of the rear of the crankshaft and into the bell housing.
As regards the extra hole in the camshaft retaining plate I believe it is there to allow oil to get onto the timing chain. There is no direct oiling of the timing chain/timing gears and if the extra oil hole was not there the timing chain would have to rely on any oil mist to keep it lubricated which would be insufficient. The extra hole is adjacent to the oil gallery feed to the front camshaft bearing and it makes sense for some oil to be discharged from there onto the timing chain.
Anyway that's my story and I am sticking with it.

[biomed32uk]

I have already purchased it, have to see how it goes and report back. Its not excessively dripping oil but if she marks her spot on the drive I will get a serious ear bashing, I have to run out when I park and put the tray underneath until shes down my bit of the drive near the workshop where I don't care.

I thought it may be something to do with oil but cant see a way through for it, have to look again now I have everything clean and its not covered in black gunge. You can eat your dinner off the parts now.

What's the feeling on here of adding some sealant to gaskets, I mean the faintest wipe so its not oozing out everywhere which inside is bad anyway, and of course not the head gasket and probably not the oil pump as I don't feel that would be a good idea, a wipe of blue hylomar or stick with grease

[philthehill]

As regards the sump gaskets and the cork end seals - I smear the surfaces of the two side gaskets and the end cork seals with grease and it all slips together with NO leaks or drips.
I personally do not use sealant. Many modern cars do not have gaskets and you have to use sealant.
Make sure that the cork seals do not stand too proud above the ends of the sump.
Attached diagram:-[frame][/frame]
I would rather use the cork seals rather than the later neoprene seals though others do have their preferences.
When you fit the seal kit ensure that the flywheel mounting flange is absolutely and I mean absolutely smooth on its outer edge against where the seal provided in the kit runs or it will rip the seal to pieces in seconds and you will have to do it all over again.

[M25VAN]

I don't know if they are to the correct length already but I see Sussex Midget Spares sell pre formed cork gaskets, listed as for a Minor as well.

http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/shop_ ... 71_02.html

[bmcecosse]

As mentioned above - I suggest you return the rear crank 'seal' kit for credit - it's a complete waste of time and money........ a properly built engine won't leak oil.

[biomed32uk]

Ok, lots of thoughts here so will look during the build up.

The oil pump I whizz apart before I fit it and fill it with vaseline, I also plan to leave the banjo loose going down to the filter, pump the the block full of oil from there back down to the pump, having fitted the oil filter prefilled with oil fill the pipe up as well. Tighten it all up and then short bursts on the starter with no plugs in, watching the gauge.

The rocker pedestals on removal had a locking plate on each one that hold the locating screw, what should be there, just a washer or a spring washer as well ?.

[bmcecosse]

Just a washer - although a plate on the single ped that has the grub screw to block the oil passage. At £1.95 each I doubt the quality of these cam followers. I see no good reason to not use the 'good' ones you have - certainly not the crazed/domed ones - throw them away. I have never had any trouble reusing followers - and just renewing any poor ones. But it's up to you....

[biomed32uk]

While I am at it the camshaft bearings look a little tired, I know they have to be pulled in square so I can turn a mandrel up to pull them in, are they to size when fitted or do they need finishing to size.

[bmcecosse]

It's very very rare to renew these bearings during a 'general' overhaul. I advise to leave well alone - unless the engine was seized up due to lack of oil.... ? They certainly used to need reaming in line after installation, but I have heard that the bushes on sale now do not need reaming - but I take that idea with a large pinch of salt.

[philthehill]

Unfortunatly they have to be line bored using BMC Special tool Pt No: 18G123A, 18G123AN, 18G123AH and 18G123AJ or similar.

I was very tempted the other day when a new and unused BMC Pt No: 18G124A Camshaft Liner Remover and Replacer (basic tool) came up for sale on 'e' bay but realised that I would still have to get the bearings line bored so at the end of the day I did not bother. Better to give it to the professionals to do.
Cost at Oselli to line bore bearings already fitted £80 plus the usual so you may find a cheaper source to do the line reaming.
I would not trust any new bearings to be supplied in a ready to fit/ready to run state. I would still want to line bore to be absolutely certain that all bearings were in line.

[biomed32uk]

Think they are best left alone, the engines not been run dry ad they are not that bad. A tiny scratch on one of them. Think I will give it a gentle polish and leave well alone, this is only a 1000 mile a year car if its lucky after all.

[bmcecosse]

Don't 'polish' it! Think of the scratch as an oil path round the bearing... It will be fine. Or - are you planning a super high-lift camshaft and super strong springs ????

[biomed32uk]

No, just going back as it came apart, all standard. That's one way of looking at as an oil path, its very small and I did give it a quick wipe with some worn out oily polishing paper and they look just fine.

Now to try and sort the oil pump, the one supplied by ESM branded as Powertune is only a 3 lobe pump, seems to be going backwards with this, I thought the 5 lobe pumps were the better style.

[bmcecosse]

Indeed yes! The 3 lobe must be VERY old stock.

[biomed32uk]

Not happy with the quality of it, looks like some piece of chinese tat, they can have that back, and it was the dearer one of the two they offer. That packs in or fails and its curtains for all my work, its pumping the engines life blood.

Got the crank back today, all done and now 10 under standard on all.

So back to my original question, anyone recommend a decent source of oil pumps, Moss ?.

[philthehill]

You are limited in your choice of oil pumps if you still have the pin drive camshaft.
If you want a good quality oil pump and money is no object you could try the oil pump featured in the attached link:-
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... lassic/oil pumps.aspx|Back to search
You will need the spacer Pt No: 12G1127 to go between the block and oil pump or shorten/swop the drive shaft. (Note: As this spacer has become obsolete you may have to make one). I have in the past when using small block 'A series engines shortened the drive shaft of the Cooper 'S' high capacity oil pump Pt No: AEG178/AEG410 so allowing me to fit and use that oil pump. Shortening the drive shaft is a well known and used modification. I currently use a modified Metro Turbo oil pump in my 1380cc engine but of course that does not need the drive shaft shortening.
Attached is an extract from the mini specialist Somerford Mini Ltd parts list which gives details of the inter- changeability of 'A' series oil pumps.

http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... age&id=119

Note the reference to the 5 bolt oil pump which allows fitment to all 'A' series engines whether small or large block.
See also their High capacity oil pump Pt No: GLP110. But again the spacer Pt No: 12G1127.

Anyway which ever way you go the above should give you plenty of food for thought.
Happy engine building

[bmcecosse]

You could of course change the camshaft for something a little more exciting (although the 1098 engine cam is actually pretty good for a limited revs engine) - an MG Metro cam is ideal but hard to find - and there are 246 and 256 period cams around - all well suited to a 1098. And any of these would allow the use of a Mini slot drive 5 lobe pump....

[philthehill]

Genuine Concentric Cooper 'S' oil pump which I have modified to fit a small block engine.
It has the shorter drive shaft and the modified bolt holes.
The two bottom bolt holes have been shortened by stepping the casing to allow the bolts clear the oil pump cover and the top hole has been countersunk also to clear the oil pump cover, a counter sunk bolt/screw is used there and Loctited in place.
The pump was used in my 948cc Minor engine when converted to 998cc competition spec.
I did find when fitting the pump to a 948cc bock the oil pump cover benefits from being made (when looking from the rear of the cover) slightly convex to clear the centre oil pump boss. It still allows clearance between the cover and the flywheel.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[biomed32uk]

Looks a good job, i have made some enquires around some of the Mini sites.

I have found that Kent cams do one, cant see too much technical info on it, i have asked

I am also dubious of the cam followers from esm, they don't have the hole in, which I am sure is not critical but does help in oiling the cam I reckon. One of the mini sites claims to offer genuine AE ones with holes in, slightly dearer though but that doesn't matter.

I am getting more and more wary of what esm are providing, are their bearing shells and thrust bearings any good, I really don't want critical components as tat.