Engine losing oil when filling

[nwxh]

So having learnt how to read the dipstick properly, I went ahead and attempted to fill it with oil to "max". A lot of oil seeped out the right hand side of the engine, near the top (between the green cover(?) and rest of the engine body). Any idea what the cause and remedy is?

The PSI was 60 rather than the usual 40 and the engine ran smoother in the first ride after this. A few hours later, it was back to 40 PSI for the journey.

[The vast minority]

Sounds like it needs a rocker cover gasket, very cheap fix indeed.

You could try nipping the bolts up to see if they are loose, this obviously will also allow it to leak

Al

[nwxh]

Many thanks. Any other parts I should replace at the same time?

Are there any torque specs on the nuts?

[The vast minority]

Don't touch those nuts you can see, you need the big head bolts on top of the rocker cover Just give em a nip,

No need to concern yourself with torque here, you are only looking for a seal and a little bit extra, it's in the feel.

Al

[Boomlander]

Fit a new rocker cover gasket using silicon to seal the gasket to the cover.
Then when you position the cover the gasket won't move.
Finally tighten the two cover bolts just enough to compress the gasket slightly and check for any leaks on start up.
P.S. make sure all mating faces are clean. 40 psi running is acceptable.

[nwxh]

Thanks for the replies.

So looking at http://www.morrisminorspareparts.co.uk/ ... cker-cover, I simply need the gasket (5)?
The cover is held on by the two bolts in front of and behind the filler cap, right?

[nwxh]

Some more information. It had a new petrol pump and rocker cover gasket fitted in March 2013, less than 500 miles ago. Is it likely that, rather than the gasket being worn, the nuts weren't quite tightened enough?

[The vast minority]

Some more information. It had a new petrol pump and rocker cover gasket fitted in March 2013, less than 500 miles ago. Is it likely that, rather than the gasket being worn, the nuts weren't quite tightened enough?

There are no nuts, it's the 2 big bolt heads on Top of the engine, have you got a spanner or a socket?
It honestly is the simplest thing in the world to check. As hard as putting a sock on your foot. I suggest you take the dramatic step of removing the rocker cover and doing it properly. You will learn a lot and it's an ideal starter DIY job that's pretty tough to get wrong.

Possibilities for the joint face leak include but are not limited to:

Bolts not tight enough as I already suggested twice above! So errr yes, it's possible but feel free to ask again
Crap hard gasket cheap part fit for bin.
Old gasket still there despite your belief
Faces not cleaned before fitting any new gasket
No gasket present

I've never used an extra sealing agent, its not needed and I've worked on engines that have been ruined by sealant applied by would be DIY mechanics. Nothing wrong with using a bit as described above but it's not required to form a seal.

Al

[Boomlander]

Thanks for the replies.

So looking at http://www.morrisminorspareparts.co.uk/ ... cker-cover, I simply need the gasket (5)?
The cover is held on by the two bolts in front of and behind the filler cap, right?

Yep, cork gasket with a smear of silicon on the upper surface to hold it in place on the rocker cover while you position it and then tighten the two large bolts through the rocker cover to just compress the gasket slightly.

[bmcecosse]

The rocker cover is likely to be distorted due to overtightening of the NUTS (not bolts...). I would remove the cover - check it for distortion and correct if necessary. Then assemble with a new cork gasket glued to the cover - new rubber seals in the cover if necessary - and gently nip down the two nuts - only v light pressure is required. The glue means you can remove the cover in future (many times) without damaging the gasket. NO sealant should be applied between gasket and head....

[nwxh]

Thanks for the help. The new gasket arrived today (into my department with no address, confusing the receptionists). I also have an imperial socket set and spanner set. I will try tightening to 5NM so I'm not relying on "feel". I will use a tiny bit of instant gasket if it arrives in time.

The rocker cover is likely to be distorted due to overtightening of the NUTS (not bolts...).

I think this is my fault for getting wrong at the start. I assume you refer to the two items at the top of the rocker cover, which I first called nuts from incorrect memory but others have corrected me as bolts?

[bmcecosse]

They are NUTS... Blind nuts, and reduced for part of their length to fit down inside the rubber seals....but NUTS they are! Make sure the cup washers and spacers are present on top of the rubber seals - unless you have the lifting brackets, of course. If the cover is distorted - then carefully reshape it against a sandbag or similar. Stick the gasket to the cover with clear contact adhesive - you don't want to see any 'instant gasket' sticking out...... And of course nothing on the head face of the gasket.

[alexmcguffie]

Female threaded hollow bolts...!

[The vast minority]

Female threaded hollow bolts...!

Correct

[bmcecosse]

Sorry - bolts screws and studs are male and nuts are female...... you can twist (pun...) it any way you like - but blind NUTS they are!

[alexmcguffie]

Stay calm.

[nwxh]

Thanks again for the help. I had another look today and the current cork gasket appears to be in good condition. (I will take the rocker cover off tomorrow morning when the engine is cold to have a proper look).

However, about half an inch beneath the cork gasket appears to be two bigger slits. I don't know if these should be present as I can't find a high resolution image of an A series engine. Will take an image tomorrow.

[The vast minority]

Stay calm.

Don't worry, we would be NUTS to fall out over this THREAD, it's all just TORQUE
Al

[alexmcguffie]

Stay calm.

Don't worry, we would be NUTS to fall out over this THREAD, it's all just TORQUE
Al

Some of the torque in here is just nuts and makes me want to bolt for the door....

[The vast minority]

Stay calm.

Don't worry, we would be NUTS to fall out over this THREAD, it's all just TORQUE
Al

Some of the torque in here is just nuts and makes me want to bolt for the door....

I've been SCREWING around for a living for years. Ive worked until very recently for the 2 worlds biggest engine and automotive body fastener manufacturers as direct assembly specialist so what I don't know about Torque and assembly isn't a great deal. But I'm happy to engage in light hearted banter about nuts and bolts. I worked for the inventor of helicoil and the inventor of rivnut. As well as PT and delta PT all massive names in automotive. Helicoil by the way is first and foremost a means of putting a high strength thread in a weak material at oem stage and only a tiny tiny tiny percentage are sold for thread repair.


Back on track, the truth is, the actual name of the component in question here is a cap-nut. It's designed to look like a bolt head and thus be more aesthetically pleasing than a nut and bolt. and that's why I was attempting to steer our OP along this route.in fear that he might mistake the head nuts for the cap nuts, this would be unfortunate.

Al