rear shock absorber links

[mrb]

Hi

After MOT advisory - listed bushes worn in rear suspension link ! appears this is the link arm from the rear lever shock absorber ! have checked the Haynes manual - but doesn't really show much in this area ? l have purchased new links c/w rubbers - but due to my limited experience - wondered if anyone could advise me if they are pretty straight forward to change ? and what problems l may incur - before l make a hash of it !

Thanks

[bmcecosse]

Pretty much straightforward - except the nut securing the arm to the chassis pin should have a split pin through - so be sure to remove that, and wire brush and douse the thread with good release oil (not WD40..) well in advance, and take great care undoing that nut. If you shear the pin - it's a serious job to renew it.. So don't be afraid to apply heat if necessary and work the nut back and forth till it comes free. A new nut and split pin may be a good idea when reassembling, and a blob of grease overall to protect..

[mrb]

Thanks BMC - Think you've convinced me to have a try ! was prob more worried when l saw the tapered fitting - thinking it may need special removal - but will go out later and do the wire brushing and spray it - so will have a go next week !
nice to have help available for me to gain confidence to do bits myself

Thanks dave

[Trickydicky]

You will need a ball joint removal tool for the bottom link. Be careful if you have to apply any heat as the joints are just rubber so may set alight.
The hardest part I found with this job was lining up the castle nut for the split pin hole.....have fun

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I would take the complete damper + arm off and then pop the taper on the 'bench'. Will it not respond to a sharp tap or two? Remember it's for the bin anyway!! So doesn't matter if you bu99er the thread...May as well drain and fill the dampers with SAE40 oil while they are off....

[mrb]

Hi Thanks ! BMC


Is it a modification to use sae40 oil in the dampers ? sounds like it from your comments ? If so then l will do - if it improves the ride ?

Dave

[bmcecosse]

The difference will amaze you.... (especially over the horrible/thin/stinking old oil) .... If you can't easily find SAE 40 oil - then SAE 30 is almost as good.... This would do nicely..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIP-02350-Tra ... 20ec37e613

[mrb]

Thanks very much bmc

will get some and take your kind advice !

Dave

[bmcecosse]

Drain and refill the front dampers too! Do that ON the car - very easy to do. As long as the dampers have not failed/leaking - then they are now at least as good as the 'bolt on' tele damper kits.

[mrb]

Thanks bmc !

Presume sae 40 engine oil must be unsuitable ! ? piston-comp oil needed ! do you know the quantity l would need to do all four ? Thanks

[bmcecosse]

SAE 40 engine oil is fine - if you can find it at a fair price....It's NOT 10W40 oil.......

[Trickydicky]

Enough here to last you a few years, https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/prod ... oil-sae40-

[mrb]

Thanks BMC !


Will get some next week and have a go ! had a look at front dampers and yes can see valve at bottom to drain from - so easy - have cleaned rear nuts and sprayed them - repeat again in two days 1


Thanks for help Dave

[katy]

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[bmcecosse]

Support the eye of the arm either side of the link pin - and then apply a sharp 'tap' - it's going in the bin anyway.....

[frame][/frame]

[mrb]

Hi again !

After having soaked damper nuts etc removed them ! but just wondering rather than struggle refitting the link arm - back onto the swivel pin fastened to the chassis - can the castellated nut be replaced with a Nyloc nut and if that's ok ? anyone know the size/thread needed ? think with my arthritis going to have problems fitting split pin back

Thanks Dave

[aupickup]

yes you can i did with mine
can not remeber the size, it might show on one of the minor shop websites

[Trickydicky]

From memory the nuts will be 7/16" BSF, the same size as the bolts securing the damper to the angled axle plate. Best place to buy them would be your local engineers merchants. To be sure, take the old castellated nut with you if you go to an engineers merchant.

[bmcecosse]

That will be ideal - provided the 'nyloc' section of the nut runs fully on the thread. Once on - protect the nut and thread end with a blob of grease.

[mrb]

Thanks to all for advice given !

Was quite surprised how little oil was actually in the Dampers - flushed them three times - which was a tedious job filling and empting but sure it will be advantageous as you said ! refitting was ok - but did find it pretty hard putting back the link arms with their new rubbers - but managed (knackered today though) ha ! by the way if interested the nyloc fitted great and was a 3/8 BSF

Thanks again - Fronts next


Dave