To be candid, Alan - the whole area around the shocker mount looks pretty tired so you might want to think about putting a replacement panel in there with a nice new shiny drop arm mounting? (If it's pretty much the same on the other side, I'd have that one done too and you can then ensure you have replaced both rear shockers as a pair and that the rear floor is fully sound too). This will also ensure that the new shocker can act properly and not cause the rear floor and mount area to flex instead. If not then I think you will have to look at using heat and getting some new drop arms too - fortunately, they are not too expensive good luck
The drop link is held in with a castellated nut (5/16 Whitworth head, BSF thread) and a split pin. Looks like the split pin has corroded away so you will need to find the hole and drill it out or use a socket and hope it snaps th pin and the nut undoes, then drill out the hole for a new split pin.
And yes, a good idea to clean up the rear chassis leg to see what condition it is in and paint it as this area is an MOT failure if excessively corroded. (i.e. rusted through).
Other cars are just the same - without the rust! It's not a 'bolt' -it's a NUT. And as others have suggested - the whole area is very rusty -the mount may well twist out when you apply force. I would look for the remains of the split pin and remove if possible - then heat it RED hot - and attack it with a really tight fitting socket - probably one of these 'grip all sizes' sockets - since the nut is so badly corroded I'm doubtful if there any useful flats left on it...... A good soaking with Plus Gas overnight 'may' help although I rather doubt it.......
does a bolt not go through the body of the car? the nut attaches to the bolt, its the bolt i want to remove/replace that why i have asked the question...
Alan - the drop link is attached to a spigot with a thread cut into it which is welded to the rear bodywork section. You won't actually be able to remove it unless it is extremely badly rotted/rusted.
Helpful info ill try to look at it today the rust isnt as bad as it looks and a wire brush on drill works wonders.
I may apply heat to the pin and nut and see if I can free it that way. I bought replacement springs for about £30 of ebay so I intend to fit them and weld any patch needed, however still praying for a welder to fall from the sky!!
Ive just discovered from you guys that its not a bolt, so Im learning as I go.
Kind regards
Alan
Last edited by LUR759H on Fri Aug 15, 2014 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If you are just replacing the springs no need to remove the drop link,it can be done with the shockers just hanging from the chassis,as long as the area is sound,leave it alone untill you need to replace the arm.could last for years.
If you are just replacing the springs no need to remove the drop link
He's replacing the dampers..
However, yes - if you're only doing the springs it's possible to leave the damper mounting arm connected.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Ive tried tonight with a ring spanner but it doesn't look like its going to move easily! Ill have another go tomorrow in the daylight someone suggested maybe try cutting the nut, maybe ill try...
I meant shockers,was just reading a thread about springs,can't multitask now,or so the boss says. see here http://www.auto-part.com/britCatalogs/m ... =1&page=12 dont use heat on it as there is a rubber bush in the drop link,it is a taper fit and can be difficult to get off,but possible with a bit of effort,
The bushes in that drop arm are well gone....they will need replacing... the nut HAS to come off and be renewed. Why new dampers??? Was there a problem with yours ? Unless leaking - just drain and flush/refill with SAE 40. They will be better than new !
The damper seems to work fine, the drop arm also seems to be fine however the amount off rust and corrosion is a lot, excuse my English, its my 3rd language, the bushes are also gone. behind the drop arm it requires welding and I need to do this before I put the car for MOT.
I also intend to replace the U bolts and wire brush the axle and get it all as rust free as possible...
I did get the arm free by cutting the nut, ill post a pic in a while.
Thank you for your help, no doubt ill need some more advice so ill keep posting
Oh dear - a LOT of welding needed there - it's been patched before too... and poorly at that.. You should not have cut through the stud like that! I doubt you will get a new nut to hold on there now. Poor advice to cut the nut.....heating red hot would surely have got it unscrewed without ruining the stud like that..?