I'm going to take the middle ground here. BMC's method does work but you DO need a jack that sits well in the joggle in the rear wishbone - as Phil says - or there is a chance the wishbone will slide off the jack as it is lowered down. As the wishbone is lowered, the outer end moves inwards towards the chassis leg. If your jack doesn't have wheels then there's also a chance it could topple over.
Before you start turning spanners make sure you are confident of the way you are about to do it.
suspension bushes
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- Minor Fan
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Re: suspension bushes
Glad to be back!
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- Minor Addict
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Re: suspension bushes
It doesn't matter which way, the danger is exactly the same. The danger is the chance of a simple jack slipping as the arm rotates the required amount both when relieving the tension and then again when reapplying it. The danger is not great. The car is supported, of course, the jack may slip out, but unless you are on ice it will not go any where and even on ice, only over to the other wheel. Pay attention where you have your fingers. The worst is when it's time to rewind the torsion bar because the chance of slipping increases as the tension increases, whereas during unloading the the tension will be just about relieved when the slip angles occur. Removing the upper pivot makes it a bit less precarious trying to remove or reinsert the lower pin, but either a third hand or support for the kingpin will be needed. The support shown that has a slot for the thick arm is a good safety improvement. Having the lower end assembled when relieving or reloading the tension gives more options to safely use a simple jack.
The above applies to working on the ground or close to it as most of us do. If one had use of a lift and is working at chest height, all sorts of different precautions are required.
The above applies to working on the ground or close to it as most of us do. If one had use of a lift and is working at chest height, all sorts of different precautions are required.
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Re: suspension bushes
I've always done this job with a scissor jack, and ALWAYS assumed that the jack can slip - therefore made sure that nothing goes bad if/when that happens.I'm going to take the middle ground here. BMC's method does work but you DO need a jack that sits well in the joggle in the rear wishbone - as Phil says - or there is a chance the wishbone will slide off the jack as it is lowered down. As the wishbone is lowered, the outer end moves inwards towards the chassis leg. If your jack doesn't have wheels then there's also a chance it could topple over
I've had the jack shot across the floor on a set up when i was deliberately raising the front suspension height (way out of normal range) for "off road" ground clearance. At normal suspension height I've not had many issues, but that doesn't mean it wont happen. If you assume the jack WILL slip out and make sure you remain safe if it happens, then the risk is contained.
Same goes for jacking up a car to work underneath or remove a wheel etc..
Assume the car will come off the jack/axle stand, prop etc.. and think what happens next! It's VERY easy to put a stack of wheels under the car so that it doesn't drop on you (or anything else), and for the extra few seconds effort it is worthwhile just for lower stress levels.
and hands in general, not to mention legs, arms, chest , HEAD etc..Pay attention where you have your fingers.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Addict
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Re: suspension bushes
The manual shows it being done this way! It even has a note highlighting the need to be carefull by useing some sort of fabricted jack adapter.
My jack has shoulders on eithe side of the "platform" that just sit nicely behind the bend in the rear thick arm.
And as said the vehicle IS SUPPORTED BY ANOTHER JACK you are only useing the seconndary jack as an "aid" itis NOT supperting the bulk of the vehicle weight.
My jack has shoulders on eithe side of the "platform" that just sit nicely behind the bend in the rear thick arm.
And as said the vehicle IS SUPPORTED BY ANOTHER JACK you are only useing the seconndary jack as an "aid" itis NOT supperting the bulk of the vehicle weight.
Re: suspension bushes
I suppose the safest way is to raise the suspension - then remove the rebound stop entirely - then allow the suspension back down and it will be more or less released of all compression as the top arm sits down in the gap where the rebound stop bracket was located. The Manuel may well say to do this - I haven't the energy to go and look it up. I've certainly never even contemplated doing the job by dismantling the top trunnion first... As pointed out above - the suspension compression release risk is still pretty much the same - admittedly with a larger 'pad' for the jack to act on. But with the additional 'risk' of your hands in the top trunnion while undoing it all and twisting it off the damper arm pin. I can say that releasing a Mini front suspension compression is a LOT more exciting - and 'finger' dangerous... So be happy with the simplicity of the Minor!



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- Minor Fan
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Re: suspension bushes
Ok thanks for all the advice and wish me luck going to have a go at the weekend keeping all my fingers crossed.