Track rod ends

[MONTY007]

How much should you be able 'wiggle' the track rod ends when the car is jacked up and wheel off?
Should the big nut at the end be on tight enough to stop any 'wiggle'

Drivers side is rock solid and the passenger side has a bit of give, and the nut was loose.

Regards
'Mechanical phobe'

[bmcecosse]

The big nut ??? The locking nut on the track rod - against the TRE must be TIGHT !! There must be no 'wobble' whatsoever... And obviously (I think....) the TRE must be rock tight in the steering arm taper, and the securing nut tight and locked either with a split pin - or a 'self locking' nut.

[simmitc]

As above, the TRE and locknut must be tight to form a single unit with the track rod; and the TRE must be tight in the steering arm. You can then twist the rod and TRE from side to side as the TRE is effectively a ball joint. However, it should not be a slack wobble, just a twisting motion.

[MONTY007]

Thanks chaps,
I was getting wobble mixed up with twist. Locking nut now as tight as it will go, and with a bit of twist.
Many thanks.
Andy

[simmitc]

Just a thought, if one side is "rock solid", then the TRE might need replacement. As noted, it is a ball joint and so should be able to twist. If it won't, then it has seized. That's highly unusual, but I suppose it is possible if it has not been greased.

[bmcecosse]

Very good point - do make sure it can 'twist' easily.

[MONTY007]

Yes it does twist, both twist about 20% round and back.

What would have cause the retaining nut to come loose, assuming it was tight for it's MOT 250 miles ago?
Is there a hole to put a split pin in somewhere?

[bmcecosse]

No pin! The nut must just not have been tightened properly.

[simmitc]

Just to clarify. on the track rod, there is a locking nut that screws against the TRE to secure it. Underneath the TRE, where it passes through the steering arm, there is a nut to secure the TRE to the arm. This nut might be a castle nut, in which case it should be secured by a cotter (split) pin; or it might be a nyloc nut, in which case it does not need a pin.

If using a pin, it passes between the "battlements" of the nut, through a hole in the vertical thread, and out through the battlements again on the other side. I have seen some recently where when the nut is done up tight, the hole for the pin is way below the nut, which is of no use. If that happens, don't try to drill a new hole (unless you have the correct gear), instead, pack the nut down with a couple of washers so that the slots line up with the hole. I hope that all makes sense

[MONTY007]

EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION....................I'll go and check it out.
Many thanks to you all.