Inner wing rust.

[bluegrass]

I have stripped out my front suspension, de-greased everything and wire brushed the loose rust off of the main components including the torsion bar etc. I have also taken the under seal away of the inner wing and found some surface rust. Some areas are worse than others. With the suspension parts, is it ok to treat with a de rust like fe-123 after wire brushing and then use a hard coating like mastic 121 as a hard top coat over the remaining pitted rust, or do you really need to have parts completely blasted and make them rust free before painting. With the inner wings, I intend to paint them rather than wax oil etc, again with mastic 121 after taking off as much surface rust as possible. Any larger corrosion, I will have repaired with new metal at a later stage. Again, is it important to completely remove all rust , or are light surface rust areas treatable in the way I described? I'm not after a concourse car, but rather something presentable and well protected.

Thanks for any help.

[kennatt]

It depends how bad the rust is,give it a poke with a screwdriver and see if it goes through the metal,wiith chassis tap it with a small hammer ,the sound metal will give a ring duff areas will be dead,bear in mind a good coating of waxoil gives good protection b ecause it is self healing,if it gets a scratch then it ceeps over and reseals.Hard underseal just lets water under a scratch and holds it there..

[chickenjohn]

I don't think the FE123 product being a converter will last very long. The best products I've found for stopping and encapsulating rust are the Brantho Korrux primers and top coats.

Best to remove as much of the rust as you can back to what is known as "ST2" standard (feint metallic sheen) I use wire brush on grinder or on drill and hand sand any resistant areas with coarse paper. Then apply Brantho Korrux Nitrofest, if the surface is now good, for innaccessible to clean off areas, the Brantho Korrux RPO (rust primer orange) works very well at stabillising the rust and giving a primed layer. You only need to use a mastic or seam sealer to prevent water ingress into panel seams or to protect welds. Best to use a stone chip coating for high impact areas and then a top coat of your choice. Over stone chip and seam sealer I use Brantho Korrux 3-in 1. Satin finish.

I've just painted one of the wheels on my convertible in their cream white 3-in-1 and it is a very close match to old english white.

I wouldn't apply waxoyl or my preferred product, Dinitrol until any welding needed is completed.

[bluegrass]

Ok, thanks for the advice, I'll get on with it....