In the process of removing engine and gearbox together, disconnecting most things and have just taken up in the inner floor panel and can see all the clutch connections and tried to follow the haynes manual to do it but I don't know any of the names of parts and it made my head spin, see below...[frame][/frame]
Can anyone help with a morons guide to disconnecting the clutch so I can get this last bit done in my two hour window of work on the car tomorrow afternoon??
Thanks in advance everyone
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'
Look at the space between the gearbox and driver's side chassis leg. There is a shaft running between the two, one end into the side of the gearbox, and one into a bush on the chassis leg. This is the relay shaft. A rod from the relay shaft runs forward to the clutch operating fork that sticks out through a rubber gaiter in the side of the bell housing. This is the operating rod with the adjusting nut at the end. From the relay shaft backwards are a couple of plates that go to the clutch pedal. They are fixed with clevis pins that themselves are retained by cotter (split) pins. Have a look at a parts list to get an idea of how they look.
To remove the assembly. undo the adjusting nut and feed the operating rod out of the relay shaft. Remove the splkit pin holding the plates to the relay shaft and drop them out of the way.
Look at the bush in the chassis leg. There are two small bolts holding the bush assembly in place. Remove them and then slide the bush down. when it clears the chassis leg, it can be removed from the relay shaft, and the relay shaft can be pulled from the bush on the side of the gearbox cover. Watch out the for backing plate on the chassis leg bush.
If it looks as though it is connected then disconnect it!!!
If it is your first attempt at removing the engine and box then you may find it easier to separate them and remove them one at a time
Why are you removing the engine and gearbox? And why take out the floor........? And I agree - I would absolutely pop the engine out first, and then drop the gearbox if you really need it out....
I'm removing the engine and gearbox so I can mount it on a rollover jig and weld underneath, I'm removing them together as last time I asked which way was best on these forums the consensus was do it together seeing as I have an engine crane, I also removed the floor panel so I could get the speedo cable off that was stuck pretty fast and I didn't like tugging and pulling at while under it on stands/jack combo, far safer inside on solid ground....
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'
With an engine crane, and the front of the car off, it's just as simple to take them out together, and avoids any possibility of damaging the clutch or hanging one or the other on the gearbox input shaft.
simmitc wrote:With an engine crane, and the front of the car off, it's just as simple to take them out together, and avoids any possibility of damaging the clutch or hanging one or the other on the gearbox input shaft.
Agreed, the gearbox weighs much less than the engine being alloy cased rather than a great lump of cast Iron. It is a doddle to separate engine and gearbox when both are removed as a unit and you can get to all the nuts and bolts much easier.
simmitc wrote:Look at the space between the gearbox and driver's side chassis leg. There is a shaft running between the two, one end into the side of the gearbox, and one into a bush on the chassis leg. This is the relay shaft. A rod from the relay shaft runs forward to the clutch operating fork that sticks out through a rubber gaiter in the side of the bell housing. This is the operating rod with the adjusting nut at the end. From the relay shaft backwards are a couple of plates that go to the clutch pedal. They are fixed with clevis pins that themselves are retained by cotter (split) pins. Have a look at a parts list to get an idea of how they look.
To remove the assembly. undo the adjusting nut and feed the operating rod out of the relay shaft. Remove the splkit pin holding the plates to the relay shaft and drop them out of the way.
Look at the bush in the chassis leg. There are two small bolts holding the bush assembly in place. Remove them and then slide the bush down. when it clears the chassis leg, it can be removed from the relay shaft, and the relay shaft can be pulled from the bush on the side of the gearbox cover. Watch out the for backing plate on the chassis leg bush.
great guide! And I might add, while the clutch linkage is all apart, it is worth checking the brass and rubber bushes for wear and the plates for elongation of the holes (should be round not worn oval) and check the adjusting rod end for wear on the plates.
Ideal! cheers simmitc, that made great sense and worked a treat, hopefully others find this useful!
Only had one problem, undid the nut on the wrong end of the operating rod... do'h. All good and done. Just waiting on the engine crane I'm borrowing now!
cheers all!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'
Sorry Roy, I can't see how one person can take an engine out without a crane. Even without the ancillaries and gearbox, the engine is still too heavy for one person to lift safely. Yes, two people can do it, but it's far from an ideal arrangement.
I have literally no experience in this field and I'm just trying to be the safest I can possibly be, if that means waiting a bit and doing more then so be it.
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'
The engine is run out on a trolley jack - moved over the front crossmember (protected by a bit of board) and back on to the trolley again. Head/dynamo removed - I have then lifted the engine on to a bench. But if there is a crane available - that's fine and probably the safest way forward. Just not everyone has access to a crane...although I do have my swing!
