Not starting

[kennatt]

take the rockercover off ,turn engine with starting handle,or bottom pully nut(helps if the plugs are out) watch the no 4 rockers,the ones at the rear of the engine,when they are both rocking,ie both move when the engine is turned back and forth. At this point the engine is at top dead centre and timed to fire on number one. Then look at the distributor,the rotor arm should now be pointing at no 1terminal/plug lead. Start from there and work out where the leads go.This is only the basic timing,once running the engine will need to be fine tuned,ie the BMCeccoss way advance till pinking then retard a bit at a time untill it stops.Using the timing marks on the bottom pully will tell you where top dead centre is you could work it out from there as well , But the above will prove 100% that it is on firing stroke on number 1.Which removes any doubt about the basic timing of the engine.

[bmcecosse]

If in doubt - just mover the leads round till it runs! The 'odds' are that it will have started in two moves.. One minute you say 'plugs wet' - then 'not wet'....... If it runs on a spray - then it's not getting fuel from the carb!! To test - egg-cup of petrol down the carb throat - and crank it.

[simmitc]

Right, back to low tech basics:
Take out all the plugs. Fit the starting handle. Check in neutral. Remove dizzy cap.
Turn the engine slowly until points wide open. Check that the gap is correct (15 thou). Adjust if necessary.
When points gap correct, set verbnier adjustment on vacuum unit to mid point.
Now press your thumb over No 1 plug hole and with other hand, turn the starting handle. At some point, you should feel compression building under your thumb. When this happens, stop turning handle. Remove thumb from hole and look underneath at timing marks.
Continue to turn engine slowly until mark on crankshaft pulley is between the second and third timing pointers. Now adjust the dizzy until the points start to open. Fine adjustment using the vernier on the vacuum unit (that why we set it to mid point to start, it leaves room for adjustment.
Fit rotor arm and note where it is pointing. This is where the lead to No 1 plug should be on the cap. Fit the cap and No 1 lead. Continue to fit remaining leads anti-clockwise 3-4-2.
Give everything the once over and start the car. If it won't start, then it must now be fuel, and there are some low tech checks there too. Good luck.

[Trickydicky]

It's not beyond the realms of possibility that you could have a faulty "new" condenser. Before playing with the timing I would try replacing it.

The fact that you can buy on ebay 2 condensers, 2 sets of points, LT lead and a distributor cap for 10.95 with free postage says a lot about the quality.

[Offshore]

Hi guys.

Round 37. Have this morning checked the fuel pump is supplying fuel to the float chamber and that mechanism is switching off when full. Yesterday the spark plugs were sparking and the lead from the coil to the dizzy gave a healthy spark when pulled off the dizzy and earthed. Battery charged overnight. All ok.

Then rechecked order of leads on the dizzy compared with engine bay photo the week I bought the car. My order of leads now is the same as then. To double check I followed simmitc's idea and checked for tdc with thumb over the hole turn g on the handle. Rotor arm was pointing to about quarter past or 20 past, sufficient to give me confidence plug 1 lead at 20 past is correct with 3 at about 12 noon on a clock. Leads are in order 1342 going anticlockwise round the dizzy. The vacuum advance thingy is in the same place as 6 months ago and therefore so is dizzy cap. Confident that all is in order there.

Tried starting using easy start down each bore. No start. Plugs dry.

Next plan of action must be the carb? When she cruised to a stop 4 weeks ago the float chamber had quite a bit of muck in it sufficient to turn the petrol black when stirred up with a finger. Bought rebuild kit from SU but so far only replaced the feed pipe from the float chamber and the carb body and a couple of gaskets. Piston drops when tested with damper out. Damper oil in to top of rod and working nicely.

What do I need to do to the carb to see if it is working? Didn't try Bmcecosse ' idea of petrol down the carb as the wife is out and didn't fancy setting fire to myself and car. Assume I do this by lifting the piston and pouring a small amount in?

If the float chamber was blocked (now quite clean and new link pipe fitted) what else could it be? Have I disturbed the needle replacing that pipe and do I need to recentre it or could there be a blockage somewhere?

Cheers

[bmcecosse]

Just an egg cup of petrol - pour it in and crank the engine....there won't BE any fire.........

[Offshore]

Hi chaps. Just a courtesy post to say I have not posted as been busy with a beer festival last week and will be away in sunny Yorkshire from tomorrow.

10 days ago I did the piston drop test on the carb as per the factory manual. Failed spectacularly when screwed in but ok with jet lowered. Need to centre the needle.

Started that a week ago but fell at first hurdle - cannot for the life of me undo the lo king nut. Tried soaking it and leaving it overnight. Still won't shift.

Hopefully reattaching carb body to the manifold and using a ring spanner will do the job. Plugs were dry and everything else seemed fine hence piston drop test.

Fingers crossed for next week when we get back.

Thanks for the help and support guys - it's meant a lot.

[Offshore]

Hi guys. Sorry been away and not posting. Had hols with the wife then bad weather and for last 3 weeks kidney stone. Ouch.

Tried centring the needle as it failed the piston drop test unless choke activated. Got needle now to centre and have polished everything including dash pot inside. All ok until we tighten the jet locking nut when the piston seizes. Slacker off and all is ok.

Can I leave it slightly slack?

Also got fuel leak now from float chamber round new link pipe. Assume the rubber o ring thingy is out of place. Can I take it out with a paperclip and put it back in or am I buying a new link pipe at £13? This one is new as when I took the old one off the o ring was missing.

If it comes down to it do I get my carb refurbished or buy one already done? Are new HS2 carbs available? Thanks.

[bmcecosse]

Try assembling the dashpot round 180 degrees. You need to get the piston rising and falling... Yes - try repositioning the fuel lead. Kidney stones - been there done that - agony.... My 'cure' now when ever I get a symptom is to immediately buy 3 X large bottles of cloudy lemonade (Lidl) - and drink as much of it as possible. The acidity of the lemon helps to dissolve the stone and the fluid of course washes the wee blighters away.....

[Offshore]

Hi guys. Father in law has been working on the car today. Got the needle centred and all back together without petrol leaks. Still won't go.

Checked leads and plugs. Initially 2 and 4 were wet 1 and 3 dry. All correct gaps. Changed for a new set. All 4 getting wet. Car is trying to start and will occasionally run roughly for 1 or 2 seconds but won't pick up and run.

Leads are in order 1342 going anti clockwise round the distributor. Comparing an engine photo when I bought the car with now I am sure the leads are in the right order to the cylinders and coming off the distributor.

Distributor does not appear to have moved. Cap appears in same location as when I bought the car. Advance thingy also similar and same as before.

Given the engine sounds rough when it briefly does fire, how do I check the timing and that I have the leads on the distributor cap in the right order. Leads to plugs is easy - 1342 anticlockwise. It maybe I have the leads on the cap wrongly although they appear to be the same as in the photo I took.

is it time to call in the mechanics? Got no equipment for measuring timing other than starting handle and eyesight. Sparks at plugs etc all appear ok but rough running and lack of pick up point me to timing?

[bmcecosse]

If it runs at all - you can't be too far away. Turn the dizzy clockwise (in small steps) to see if it runs any better - or if it 'kicks' against the starter - and report back !

[Offshore]

SHE LIVES! SHE LIVES! SHE LIVES!

can't believe but after several days of trying to start the car putting the old leads and condenser on 2 friends called round with 2 others one being an AA man and he got her started. Few tweaks of the throttle and choke cables which father in law had put back on too tight and set low and fast idles and she is fine

The only thing he did was warm the brand new plugs I put in yesterday and then opened up the points by eye well above 15 thou we had set and checked several times. Started first time with full throttle and no choke. Bizarre.

Air in the tyres tonight and off to work tomorrow in her.

One last question for Bmcecosse. The measurement on the multimeter across the coil is 5.89 ohms. It should be 3.2. Do I have a problem with the coil?

Many thanks to all of you for your help and advice. It's meant a lot.

I can go to bed tonight with a smile on my face.