* Ray's top tips on the brakes:
Firstly (as already suggested) check for air bubbles coming back up in the m/c AFTER RELEASING the pedal.
Cam and I wasted a lot of time trying to bleed the Elmobile's brakes as it had not shown bubbles in the m/c, but after all that time the bubbles showed up (bubbles mean the secondary seal is leaking and 99.99% of time this is due to a corroded bore and needs a new m/c).
Secondly - new brake shoes seem to be terrible these days and are not a good fit to the drums - this gives a springy pedal (Obviously you have to centralise the shoe which should happen after a few hard presses of the brakes but after that they are still poor.). The only way I have found to bed the shoes in a short time is to adjust the brakes until you can 'just about' turn the drum using 2 hands. Then after about 20 miles the high spots are taken off the shoes and the wheel will rotate fairly freely.
In this time do not head off at high speed (eg down the motorway) as things will seriously overheat. Also bear in mind that the dragging brakes will create heat so short town journeys with lots of stops are good and dont forget to leave a lot of stopping distance (hot brakes are less efficient).
After they are bedded in, you should almost no dragging, and find that 1 more click gives a completely locked drum.
Thirdly:
Last but probably most important -
The rear cylinders can not be bled by just pumping fluid through the bleed nipple. The bleed nipple is on a T-piece from the pipe so you will only bleed the pipe not the cylinder.
To bleed a rear cylinder it needs to be primed. You can do this the hard way or the hard way
Either A or B:
A) Strip it down and fill full of fuid before fitting the pistons, using a plug to keep air out when fittting to the car.
B) The nipple on the T-piece has to be upright to catch air coming out of the cylinder. Remove the drum but leave on the brake shoes and springs - press the pedal to push the piston out untyil the pedal goes hard, then the springs should push it back in smothly (if it doesn't slide straight back by itself it is faulty or the springs are weak so something needs replacing). Repeat this 10 to 20 times then bleed off from the nipple. Repeat again a few times and refit the drum and adjust the brakes to see if you still have excess travel. If so - then recheck #1 and #2 and repeat #3
* This is what I've done many times in the past with good results,
All of this was done in the last week on the Elmobile with great success. The pedal needed 3 presses after fitting new m/c, new rear cylinder some pipes and new front brake shoes and 2 hours of bleeding
- after #2 and #3 it now only needs half a press to lock the wheels
Job done.
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