Yet another newbie question.
I have systematically installed all the systems and components, yet when I tried to start it, it turns over, but nothing else happens.
All my previous cars have had idle throttle, air, and timing all controlled via computer, so I just know that I am missing something obvious. I sort of suspect the coil, is it supposed to get hot as you turn the engine over?
The timing hasn't been touched, but if It was the problem, what would I check first?
Sorry for not knowing anything, these modern cars have spoiled me.
lambrettalad wrote:CAR NEEDS 1) fuel 2)spark 3) oxygen all at the right time ,pour a half a cup of petrol /or easy start into the carb ,will it now start or backfire?
check for a spark ,by holding the king lead from the coil to within a millimetre of the block ? does it spark ,if so try the same with a spark plug
see how you get on ,and report back
reporting back: pouring gas/starting fluid into the carb had no result, so I unplugged the king lead going into the coil and tried to get spark on the engine block, but got nothing.
CaliMorris wrote:
I have systematically installed all the systems and components, yet when I tried to start it, it turns over, but nothing else happens.
It's NEVER the coil.... The fact it is getting hot means it IS working. But is probably passing current all the time. Look to the points installation (are they correctly insulated) - and the 15 thou gap........
CaliMorris wrote:
I have systematically installed all the systems and components, yet when I tried to start it, it turns over, but nothing else happens.
What systems and components have you installed?
everything with a hose connected to it, or involved with the engine.
radiator, dynamo, coil, carburetor, heater, distributor, fuel pump, the wiring loom, ignition, belt, and warning lights.
bmcecosse wrote:It's NEVER the coil.... The fact it is getting hot means it IS working. But is probably passing current all the time. Look to the points installation (are they correctly insulated) - and the 15 thou gap........
stupid question incoming:
the points are in the distributor, correct?
it is very easy to think the points are installed correctly but if the condenser loop to the points shaft are not positioned correctly on the pin (a short) there will be no spark at the plugs.put the ignition on and flick the points from closed to open you should get a spark
Cheers Alex
all thoughts are given in good faith but..." You pays your money and takes your choice" [/color]
everything looks ok in the distributor, but how can it be the distributor's problem if the coil isn't making any spark? I know that it's never the coil, but could it be the coil?
NO! The coil is getting hot - so it is passing current The points close and open to make the spark. If there is no gap - or they are 'shorting' inside the dizzy - then there will be no spark, and a HOT coil!!
Several have suggested the points , non have shown how to check
If you are happy that the points are fitted to the distributor,correctly, the common fault being the little insulator missing at the point where the nut holds it,
Make sure the contacts of the points are touching ,then with ign on flick the points open with an insulated screw driver, put the screwdriver on the pivoting bit to open the contacts,you should get a small spark as the points open.If not check the live feed to the distributor. Or that the points are fitted correctly.
If yes,then pull the king lead out of the distributor leaving the other end in the coil. hold the end of the king lead,use insulated pliers,close to the engine block,again with ign on flick the points open again you should get a loud fat blue spark from the end of the lead to the block. If not check power to coil and its connections.
If yes ,then either using a starting handle,if you have one,or put in gear and push and pull the car and watch the contacts of the points to see if the cam is actually opening and closing the contacts.If not then you need to adjust the points so that it does. 15thou being the correct gap.
To do this get the,fibre arm of the points onto the highest point of the dist.cam undo the screw that holds the points to the body of the dist,just a bit so that the points can be pushed open to the correct gap,if you have no feeler gauges use something that is as near to 15thou as you can,its not that critical give or take ,one ,either way.Put whatever you use between the points to hold them open and tighten up the screw.
Then see what happen and report back,because if all of the above are ok then its down to timing / fuel .
Just seen another post re fuel pump looks like you have got it running if so well done.
One other thing with new points is that they sometimes have some oil like substance on the contacts to protect them from corrosion in storage.
Drawing a piece of card between them is enough to clean it off, otherwise it has insulating properties
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Sorry for not responding, I haven't been able to work on it for the past day or two.
I set the gap to 15 thousandths, and then I tried to get the points to spark by opening them and closing them with a screwdriver, and they did nothing. The feed to the distributor is alive and strong, (sparks when i touch it to the post on the distributor), so I think it must be shorting out somewhere inside the distributor.
Anybody have a guess at what it could be?
Kennatt said something about a missing insulator. What does that look like, and could that be the problem?
here is a picture of the distributor without the rotor arm, just in case you all can see some obvious solution.[frame][/frame]
Make sure there is a top hat shaped insulator fitted under the nut that holds the wires to the spring arm.Essentially the bottom part of the points should be in contact with the base of the distributor(earthed) and the outer spring part should be isolated from the bottom part so that the wire only feeds live to the sprung part so making and breaking the circuit as the points open and close.Some points come as a fixed unit so its just stick it in and forget but some can be taken apart and its then that the insulator gets missed or misplaced.Also if the nut is over tightened it can push the sprung part through the insulator letting it touch the earthed side.If you have got a live feed to the nut,just make sure the points are CLOSED and flick them open by pushing on the green cam,there will only be a very small spark just noticable if you get a large one with a noticible crack of sound then supect the condenser, The silver cylinder with one wire from it.I'll try to find a suilable diagragm but as suggested have a look at the U tube link . There should also be a fibre or plastic washer on the bottom of the post where the nut connects to isolate the parts.
Last edited by kennatt on Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:11 am, edited 2 times in total.
The surface of the points need to be free of corrosion or any contamination, also the green wire between the body and the moving plate must connect both ends.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
From the picture, it looks as though the fibre heel of the points is not touching the cam, even with the points closed !
Pictures depend on camera angle, so I may be wrong.It which case ignore my comments
The spring looks pretty close to the side of the distributor body.When the heel hits the corners of the cam, how close is the spring then ? Is it actually hitting the side each time ?
When you have either cracked the problem or replaced the current points, it needs the merest touch of lubrication on the cam ( to cut down on premature wear ).
Bob
The points close and open to make the spark. If there is no gap - or they are 'shorting' inside the dizzy - then there will be no spark, and a HOT coil!!