Bench testing front suspension
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Bench testing front suspension
Hi guys real important this one! how do i bench test my front hydraulic dampers?! i no how to remove them etc, but what is the actual process of testing them!? heh! cheers, charly
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Well, the usual 'rule of thumb' method is if they don't leak and are full of fluid and damp properly then they are fine.
If they are on the bench then make sure there is NO lateral movement and that the arm is very stiff to move. Other than that I don't know what the offical Morris tests were (if indeed there were any).
If they are on the bench then make sure there is NO lateral movement and that the arm is very stiff to move. Other than that I don't know what the offical Morris tests were (if indeed there were any).
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Supposedly (I've never done it) you can put the damper body in a vice and try to move the lever arm using muscle power. If they work properly then it should be difficult but just possible for you to slowly move the arm but you encounter a lot of resistance from the oil. If you find it easy then you're either 1) very strong or 2) the damper is knackered.
Having said that, the easy way to test is to simply push down on the wing - the dampers are working if there is no significant rebound from the upstroke. They are shot if the wing goes up and down twice.
Having said that, the easy way to test is to simply push down on the wing - the dampers are working if there is no significant rebound from the upstroke. They are shot if the wing goes up and down twice.
Chris
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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Best not to try that on the Raymobile!!!Having said that, the easy way to test is to simply push down on the wing - the dampers are working if there is no significant rebound from the upstroke.

Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
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where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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This one you mean:

For bigger piccies see:
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_448.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_449.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_445.JPG
For bigger piccies see:
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_448.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_449.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_445.JPG
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If it warn't a chop I'd *love* it. I kinda fight between really liking it, and disliking the chop 
Still, excellent 40watt potential I'd've thought
[on which note, where's the site again?]

Still, excellent 40watt potential I'd've thought

[on which note, where's the site again?]
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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i haven't pulled my finger out and rebuilt it yet - the old one's here (with added MZiness):
http://40-watt-club.tripod.com/

http://40-watt-club.tripod.com/

[url]http://www.guydenning.org[/url]
[url]http://www.40wc.org.uk[/url]
[img]http://guydenning.org/guyorg/vehicles.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.40wc.org.uk[/url]
[img]http://guydenning.org/guyorg/vehicles.jpg[/img]
In a nutshell, that's what the BMC workshop manual says too. They advise replacement if there's a problem.Cam wrote:Well, the usual 'rule of thumb' method is if they don't leak and are full of fluid and damp properly then they are fine.
If they are on the bench then make sure there is NO lateral movement and that the arm is very stiff to move. Other than that I don't know what the offical Morris tests were (if indeed there were any).
a
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Oh come on Andrew you know that steering wheel will be murder on the old finger nails
My solution was to chew my finger nails for the rest of my life.thought about that years ago and thought the solution
99% of the time this "nasty dirty habit" [my mum] works in my favour; I don't have to scrub the dirt out of them, they keep me occupied on occasions when it's too cold, dark or rainy to work on the cars, it's something to do to stop me doing drugs or tabs, and they don't snag on my nighty-night blankie.

the other 1% of the time I'm cussing because I've just bent the end of my finger over the truncated nail trying to get a awkward bit of the car - like a underfelt trim button - into place.

Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.