Odd swivel pins

[sixdogsisback]

I have used Locktite Bearing Fix on the rear hubs and it is brilliant. I know this is going off topic , but it is part of the same thing really. When I first got my present Minor, it kept failing the MOT because of play in a rear bearing. replacing the bearing made no difference as the bearing was sliding in the hub. I came to the conclusion that the new bearings are not quite as thick as the original ones. The bearing is supposed to protrude from The hub by between 0.001 and 0.004 inches so that the flange on the half shaft traps it tight. None of the bearings I've bought did this and the bearing could move in the hub. The Locktite stopped this and solved the problem, yet the bearing can still be easily removed from the hub. I don't like fudging things but sometimes it's the only option.

Clive

[MarkyB]

Call that off topic?
Start talking about hot air ballooning or ironing for off topic
There isn't an unlimited amount of new old stock spares or even just worn out bits that can be reconditioned.
Is the stub hardened before the thread is cut?

We do have to agitate for better quality spares but saying just send it back is a sight easier than actually doing it on trust that something better will appear.
Particularly if you don't have unlimited time to resolve the problem.

[bmcecosse]

I do advocate measuring it first! And if too big - send it back....... Don't start bodging it with a file...... Loctite is for LOOSE bearings - the subject being discussed here was a TIGHT bearing, hence Loctite NOT to be used...........

[MarkyB]

Easier said than done, you can't just put a stamp and an address on a suspension leg and expect a better one by return of post.
Measuring it first means you either have a micrometer of the right range to hand or that you can tap the bearing on just enough to test the size but still remove it in order to still remove it and send the lag back.

[sixdogsisback]

It is easier said than done to send it back. I've found these days that companies have such an inflated opinion of themselves that they simply cannot accept that they can ever get anything wrong. complaining about bad service invariably results in them going on the offensive and being aggressive in their attitude accusing the complainer (is that the right word? of everything under the sun. It does not work to complain. And You have to vote with your feet and just not buy from them. But where do you go with Minor spares? Not everyone and in fact almost no one has a micrometer and internal calipers and I have not got these tools. OK I could buy them, as i bought a torque wrench, but these will invariably be made in China and cannot be relied upon. I have dispensed with the torque wrench and gone back to "feels right". I am satisfied that my hub now fits nicely on the axle and I don't expect any further trouble with it, though I check the car thoroughly about every 1000 miles, which is every year for me.The file . which was new and a very fine one, made little impact on the stub axle and I doubt if i removed a thou of metal, as the axle was very hard. As someone pointed out, the threaded ends are not hardened.

We ought to press the suppliers for better quality of parts. The price is not of such great consequence and I for one would pay a bit more for better quality parts.

[bmcecosse]

Sounds like it was maybe just a slight 'burr' that was holding your bearing off.

[sixdogsisback]

I checked for burrs but I could not see or feel any. Do you think that the case hardening process could cause some distortion to the machined part? It would not take much to cause the bearing not to fit. I'm sure the file had little impact on the surface because of the hardening. There may have been a slight burr that I could not see.
Can you recommend suitable measuring instruments for this sort of thing? It is often handy to be able to check the diameter of items, both external and internal, but they are worse than useless if not accurate and the markets are flooded with cheap useless tools.

Clive

[bmcecosse]

Certainly some hardening process can cause swelling - usually corrected afterwards with a light grind to size. Micrometer is the only answer i'm afraid. A vernier caliper is ok for general measurements - but not accurate enough ('verynear caliper'..) for fine work like that.

[sixdogsisback]

Certainly some hardening process can cause swelling - usually corrected afterwards with a light grind to size. Micrometer is the only answer i'm afraid. A vernier caliper is ok for general measurements - but not accurate enough ('verynear caliper'..) for fine work like that.

Can you recommend what to buy. There are thousands on e bay, mostly poor quality I would think. There seem to be 0- 1 inch or 0-25 mm and then they seem to go 1-2 inch or 25-50 mm. It's a nuisance most things being metric these days, but It's preferable to have both imperial and metric. I often use drill bits to try and guess the diameter of components, if i know its one size or another. Eyesight is not as good as it was.

Clive

[philthehill]

Try Penny farthing tools at Wantage http://pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/
They have lots of good S/H tools including measuring equipment. I have had lots of tools from them over the years. Another good source of measuring tools is auto jumbles.
Look for a good quality S/H micrometre i.e. Moore and Wright. Find one with a test piece and adjustment spanner so you can calibrate the micrometre. They are easily calibrated.
I would go for 0" - 1", 1" to 2" and 2" - 3". I have a full set of micrometres from 0" - 6" but rarely use anything bigger than 2" which is the size of a 1275cc 'A' series main bearing. For general use I have a German made digital vernier which can be used for measuring in Metric and Imperial units and can also be used for measuring internal diameters and cost me under £20. As regards measuring the relationship between the stub axle and bearings - if you have an inside/outside vernier you can soon determine if the bearing will go or not; knowing the outside/inside diameters will not make it fit any better. Whilst you can purchase Metric micrometres I have never felt the need to purchase one as most measurements are read in 0.001 of an inch and most engineers who carry out restoration work work in 0.001 of an inch.
I have always supported the notion 'buy the best tools that you can afford' !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sixdogsisback]

Yes, its better to pay a bit more and get something which is up to the job, the same with garden tools. Where can I find the correct sizes of the various parts of the minor?

Clive

[Declan_Burns]

If you are going to buy a micrometer I find that some of the older ones which show the reading in digits are very useful.
I have several -Mitutoyo being a good brand or Blankenhorn springs to mind-see below. They often show up on ebay.

Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

[IslipMinor]

I would go for 0" - 1", 1" to 2" and 2" - 3"

Totally agree, even though the stub axle uses nominal metric bearing sizes! The stub axle diameters are 17mm and 25mm, but to measure these in imperial they are 0.669" and 0.984".