Clutch shaft advice please..!

[DAVE LOVELL]

Hi...........

I'm attempting to replace the clutch/brake pedal shaft on my Woodie...I've removed nut and washer near the torsion bar,and despite both pedals and spacers spinning on the shaft......said shaft will not drift out through the chassis ! Is it simply a matter of even more violence or is there a hidden split pin....BMC workshop manual doesn't really help.Hope some kind soul here can..............Thanks............Dave.

[MarkyB]

Have you got the gearbox cover off?
As it's worn enough to replace it probably looks more like a crankshaft than a rod, try lifting then tapping.

[simmitc]

The shaft and the clutch pedal come out as a single unit. You must remove the entire gearbox cover (32 brass screws) and disconnect the clutch pedal linkage in order to remove the pedal and shaft. If the shaft is rotating OK, then it should come out easily once the retaining nut and other bits have been removed.

[dalgrae]

Not long ago I took the same shaft out of my car and it took ages to get it through the chassis leg and pedals the end part of the shaft was the problem as the last 2 inches were heavily rusted and also the shaft had worn badly ,I used a lot of WD40 and kept rotating the shaft in the bushes until it came out .The bushes were also worn so I replaced the whole lot with new bushes and shaft I also drilled a small diameter whole in the shaft through its length and small holes leading off the shaft to line up with the bushes / bearings so now I can put an oil can spout into the shaft hole and lube all the bits every now and again

[les]

I added a grease nipple to the clutch pedal but I've never used it-----I keep forgetting it's there!

[MarkyB]

If you greased it when you fitted it then it's had more lubrication than most!

[DAVE LOVELL]

Hi...........

Thanks to all who offered advice....gratefully received !

Finally got the little ********* out ,brute force and simultaneous wobbling by a mate.

It was indeed seriously worn as can be seen in the attached picture.I suspect a lot of cars have this fault but it's just classified as 'typical Moggy ' Both pedals moved freely, but in use , the other pedal would move when one was depressed....very
disconcerting !

Thanks again ! Dave.[frame][/frame]

[MarkyB]

The end towards the nut looks very shiny, was that where it was sticking?
Schlep plenty of grease on all moving parts for many years of pleasant clutch action.

[whyperion]

I think we need a little club for us people with cars seriously affected with this problem. Still trying to get the one I am working on out , the neighbours are getting fed up with all the banging , we start again tomorrow.

[lee_rob]

I have this same problem when I press the brake the clutch goes down a bit too and vice versa...I think I need to take a look

[MarkyB]

Take the master cylinder cover off and lubricate the shaft the pedals are on, start with 3 in 1 then dab some grease on for the longer term.
Same thing where the shaft comes out of the chassis leg, both ends.

[DAVE LOVELL]

Hi..........

As well as the good advice above..grab both pedals and try and get them moving in different directions to each other...easier if the clutch spring is removed or even better if the mechanism is disconnected........with pletny of lubrication the idea is to push the clutch down as far as it will go whilst holding the brake up...and then reverse the process,back and forth My clutch shaft was seized into the bushes in the brake pedal I think...this exercise would have alleviated that...changing the shaft and it's associated components is a right pain even with engine and box out and the car on my ramp!

Hope this is of use........Dave

[MarkyB]

Right on all counts, you need to work the lubricant into the joints.

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

The spacer between the brake pedal and the edge of the chasis leg can seize up as well. Ive had to carefully heat a couple to free it off, once its starts to move put a pair of vice grips on and work it round and round with plenty of oil.

[philthehill]

Whyperion
If the clutch shaft is/was that bad I would not waste my time and effort on trying to remove it as a complete unit; just cut through the shaft and fit a new one Part No COM105 from ESM £19.95 plus VAT & PP. Plenty of grease on the shaft and bearings before fitting and lubricate regularly; and if so inclined fit grease nipples. The shaft and brake pedal bearing(s) (Pt No: COM104) will be most likely worn as well so renew whilst apart. The spacer (Pt No: COM106) may be salvageable but if not is also available from ESM.

[DAVE LOVELL]

Hmmmm..........I probably would have done as suggested had I known , when I started, that the shaft would prove such a pain...but in fact the brake pedal and spacer were loose on the shaft so I didn't foresee too much trouble.I think the ridges on the shaft were the problem in my case........all good now as I've replaced all the parts listed above plus a new nut , the spacer survived the process and has been pressed into service for another, possibly, 40 years .I'll never know !