Replace all floor or patch it?

[nam]

Wow that looks good. Excellent point about welding a bar across the door apertures so it keeps its shape.

[bjbrownie]

A tip I learnt from reading information on this forum! The worst part is seeing what's left after you've cut all the rusty crap out,but do it methodically and don't get carried away with the angle grinders cutting disc- you may need to leave a rusty bit temporarily to see how the new part will line up/join to an existing body part, I'm no expert but common sense will till you if it fits right.
You won't get it done overnight so fit it in around your life, family & work dictates when you get time to fix it, don't overdo it or you may get fed up going to the garage every day!
Pic is of Martha after I started to rebuild the drivers side boxing section and front inner wing[frame]the lower sill reinforcing trim bit made a perfect door brace- it was getting binned anyway![/frame]

[Mollymooz]

Nothing is ever to far gone

My speciality is vw campers

I'm a self taught
Mechanic
Refinisher
Welder

If you are thy way inclined there's nothing stopping you learning

You can buy the flop panels in two sides rather than four
My series mm is much worse than yours and I'm coming on in leaps and bounds
The whole lot needs to be replaced
Floor
Boot
Spring hangers
Central brace
I have added these up from bull motif to a cost of under £500
I purchased the ol minor for£500

If I have £2000 in her in the end she will be a minter

Just finished rebuilding the engine and box now looks brand new all painted in original green etc etc not a spec of oil in sight

Please don't break it give it a chance and yourself you won't regret it there are some big brains on this forum and you won't be alone
Thanks

[nam]

After my thoughts have now settled down and all the encouragment i've decide it is back on.

I am going to get a welder and start researching a lot as said above. Then concentrate on getting it braced at the doors with some iron bars and spot welds.

I think it was when i saw the spring hanger joints and the cross member that it felt a lot but I will just spend longer and do it properly. Winter is here anyhow.

[ASL642]

As said above just pace yourself, concentrate on one section at a time and then stand back and look at what you've achieved!

Find a spare old door from a scrapyard and practise your welding skills on this (saves wasting a new panel)

Good luck and don't forget to post pictures of progress or ask questions - that's what this site is for.

[bjbrownie]

That's great news- with the parts available you can virtually rebuild the worst case Moggy, but yours doesn't seem that bad considering some poor cases seen in the restoration section! There's always advice and help on this forum, I've learnt a lot from reading up on others experiences, enough to give me the incentive and determination to get this far. Good luck with it mate

[nam]

I hope to own a vw camper van one day too...

Well here is some more pics of the underside. There is a small hole in the boot but that's it. Looks to me like the work is sorting the spring hanger joints out for new one's? And fabricating some new plates around where they join. I have a drill with metal wire attachment bits so think I might have a mass de-rusting session to see where there is metal and where it's rust.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[bjbrownie]

A lot of that corrosion should clean off- buy yourself a couple of wire brush attachments for your angle grinder, I find drill ones aren't aggressive enough ( I get these from the supplier in Ellesmere Port), these brushes are great and last for ages but LETHAL- get really good eye protection on when using this on your angle grinder!
This is really good for cleaning up rusty bodywork and cleaning old paint and the horrid black stuff off your work area. [frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Remove the petrol tank before you do anything else -and store it outdoors (but under a good cover obviously).

[nam]

Those wire brushes do look lethal my god. Might be scared to use it!

Thanks bmc good advice. I will take the tank out, will make it easier to see everything too.

[MarkyB]

Get a few cans of penetrating oil (not WD40) and start soaking all the nuts and bolts you can see.
Particularly the captive nuts that hold the wings on, you can get to most of them from the inside, the hockey sticks too, get the dirt of them first.

You will need a good 1/4 whitworth ring spanner and/or socket the get the wings off, clean the bolt heads thoroughly before you start.

Resist the temptation to use spanners that almost fit, scraped knuckles and rounded off nuts will be the unhappy result.

[nam]

Got the oil so will start soaking tonight.

These are my tools of choice.[frame][/frame]

[Mollymooz]

The tools of your choice will be ok but will take you forever

You really want

Angle grinder with

Flap disc
The really aggressive wire wheels
Or the aggressive 40 grit discs with backing plate

Don't forget get a burning gun the ones that plumbers use apply heat to a stubborn nut and they will give in
All else fails grind the bleeder everything can be obtained remember that

And above all never forget your ppe never

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I'm afraid these 'tools' are useless... You DO need a good angle grinder - with wire stripper wheel and cutting and grinding discs. I find TWO angle grinders are handy - one set up with cutting disc, and one with grinding disc. Initially you would set up one of them with the wire wheel. Keep an eye on Aldi and Lidl...... Although not in the current 'offers' - your local store may still have stock - no harm asking!

[nam]

Ok I will get a lethal wire wheel. I have an angle grinder already with cutting discs

[Mollymooz]

Yes the twisted ones work well

One of my favourite tools is a Stanley knife scraper they take Stanley blades and scrape more crap of than you can shake a stick at! Cheap as well

If you can get hold of a compressor this would be good
For the
Priming
Etc
I love mine and use it for everything great for blowing all the crap away you have just sanded

Whit worth spanners are a good investment as well you should pick them up cheap

A bag of rags
Some de greaser or tfr
Won't go a miss either

All spend ha ha

[MarkyB]

Some overalls too, get cotton, they are warmer and don't catch fire when you are welding
After a few days working on the car you'll look the part enough to try Roys trade discount gambit.

I manage to get some Roll Royce overalls at a boot fair or autojumble, very classy, dark brown with elasticated cuffs and RR badges.

[LouiseM]

Don't forget safety though, and wear eye protection. There are some cautionary tales in this thread! http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16741

[nam]

Yes safety is a must, well I better get shopping. Overalls are a must and I have googles etc.

First thing i'm going to try and do is get all the wings off the car and then be able to see all the bottom of the car clearly.

Also I have bought four rust free doors to change over. Should I put these on now or after welding?

[MarkyB]

I'd say wait till you are finished.
Put them out of the way and cover them with something to keep the dust and grinder sparks off.
The same applies to a lot of things, grinding sparks come off at high speed and are red hot, they can make a right mess of things like plastic window frames as used in double glazing I hear
They will also stick to paintwork and glass if close enough.

Do a section at a time and give some thought as to what is on the other side of the metal you are cutting or welding.

As an a minimum have a bucket of water to hand somewhere, a washing up liquid bottle full of water makes a handy device to stop any smouldering.