Morris Minor in North Carolina US, 60-ish Complete Restore

[tach00]

Hi, my name is Jake, i have acquired a Morris Minor Convertible, However, it has no Identifier Plate so i have no idea what it is lol, I think i have narrowed it down to between a 53 and a 61 Tourer. The motor has 950 stamped on the side so i am guessing its a 948cc. Anyway it was trashed and sitting behind a refrigerator sales place, in the weather, so i rescued it. I payed the awesome price of $150.00 for it so i think i did good. But she's gonna need a LOT of elbow grease to get her back on the road. I will upload some pics to show you guys what i am dealing with here, its not pretty.

I have never heard of a Morris Minor before but i fell in love with it and i am going to do my level best to respect what it is and where it came from and restore it to as close to original as possible, barring modifications needed to bring it up to spec for a modern car. and i plan to drive her, not keep her on a trailer for car shows.

I would appreciate any advice given, as i am clearly in over my head on this project. I have spent the last week doing research and just learning what everything is called and what it does... You guys have different names for things over there ;) For example over here "Rack and Pinion" Over there "Left & Right Wheel Knuckle" LMAO

Anyway, here are some pics of her the way i got her, NOT MY DOING, i would never treat a car this way. I hope to have this beautiful car with all its personality running and back on the road this year but as you guys can see... I have lots to do... I will keep you posted as to my progress.
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[GBond]

You did well, can't see under the carpets but the car looks remarkably rust free and complete. Other good news is that the car is very simple, almost all spare parts are available and they are relatively inexpensive.

Bad news is you're going to need loads of them and you'll need to order most all the way from england so consider shipping costs as well (It's usually better to order several parts at once for this same reason). As for parts suppliers, I've tried both ESM and David Manners and I'm quite pleased with both. The ESM site is easier to navigate and has a diagrammatic search (http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/imagesearch/) which I've used some times when I don't know how to assemble something.

I believe it's between a 1959 and a 1961 model based on the wipers and the rear lamps; that's also a good thing for spares availability.

Good luck! And keep posting your progress!

[rogerowen]

Welcome to the world of 'Moggies'. Looks like you won't have too much trouble with rust, most restorations over here require the replacement of huge amounts of metal! Yes, looks like an earl 60's car, reckon you'll be able to trace it through Heritage records. For new parts I mainly use Bullmotif (www.bullmotif,co.uk) and of course Ebay. Good luck with the project, and do keep us posted.

[rogerowen]

Sorry, watch the comma in the web address!

[jaekl]

Congrations and welcome. If the doors open easily without snagging at the top, you are in great shape. The chrome trim around the glove boxes puts in in mid 59 to 61, the most common in the States. The front wheels appear to be Pinto, which as I recal is a different bolt circle, so you may have some updated front brakes. The weather has done it's best on the interior and dash. You will be searching for some of it. We have a few owners in North Carolina that may be of some help. We have the Morris Minor Registry and there are two other forums that are more US focused. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/morris_motors/ and http://www.morrisminorforum.com/
Good luck, lets us know whenever you need help.

[tach00]

You guys are so AWESOME, thanks for replying so fast and for all the information, I will be sure to keep updating as my progress happens. Again thanks, i can't wait to finally be able to drive my Moggy down the street.
Dows anyone know how i should go about getting a TITLE reissued for it. Someone said something about heritage?? Whats that and how do i trace the car. thanks again guys...

[POMMReg]

I've given you a build date & chassis number range based on the body number quoted.

You really need to locate the stamped chassis number before contacting BMHT.

I know it CAN be traced via the body number, but everyone uses the chassis number, although if unable to find the offending number, you'll have to point out the Cowley hiccup if using the body number lol.

Chris
POMMReg & MINORReg Historian

[rogerowen]

You guys are so AWESOME, thanks for replying so fast and for all the information, I will be sure to keep updating as my progress happens. Again thanks, i can't wait to finally be able to drive my Moggy down the street.
Dows anyone know how i should go about getting a TITLE reissued for it. Someone said something about heritage?? Whats that and how do i trace the car. thanks again guys...

There you go;
http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/ ... hsU_X_AE9k

[jaekl]

Check the various automotive publications such as Hemmings. Some states are very easy to create a new title and people advertise that service. However, you might even want to start with you own DMV. Most likely will need a bill of sale. Here in PA I understand you pay a fee to learn the last owner of record and then you contact them in order to allow the state to create a title. I don't know what happens if that is a dead end. I'm not sure what you will gain from British Heritage as far as getting a NC title. For something like $300 there are services available, just look around.

[tach00]

Thanks for the info, yeah i doubt the British Heritage will lead me anywhere, someone just mentioned it so i was wondering what it was, the last post mentioned a "Cowley Hiccup"??? what does that mean lol sorry for the ignorance but some of this is new to me. Does that mean there is something wrong with my Morris, or different about it? I think my next move would be to take my bill of sale to the DMV, but the guy i bought it from, bought it from someone else who had it for years, so i don't know the actual origin of the vehicle but i am sure it was last owned in NC. so once i contact the last title holder, its just like purchasing a new car, we both go to the DMV and fill out paper work right? send off for a new title from there. I am gonna go out to the Morry this afternoon and search it for that chassis number. so far the numbers that i have found are at the top of the firewall near the windscreen and they are as follows like your reading them "27249" on one little plate, then stamped into the wall is "T64090" then embossed on another little plate is what looks to me like a VIN number "BME 64255" The plate on the left of the firewall that identifies the make and model is missing. its an oval plate, if that makes a difference, the examples i have seen on other cars the plate was square.

I have looked at several sites that list different numbers for these cars but have not found any of these numbers, some were close but not the same. However, if i can find the last title holder, maybe he can clear this matter up, but either way, thanks to "POMMReg" i know its somewhere between a 53 and a 61 Tourer

Thanks guys
Jake-

[POMMReg]

Go onto the Minor owners forum as they have a section reserved for id numbers and their locations.

MAT3L 823??? of March 1960 at a guess.

[jaekl]

Without a serial number, which as mention starts with MA3TL, the DMV won't be able to do much. I doubt that it would be 823***. It would more likely be 6 or 7***** because it most likely was built in 59, but could have been titled as late as 62. does anyone know if British Heritage can tie a body number into a MA3TL serial number? The body number is stamped directly into the firewall in the area around the spot where the hood pull comes through the firewall. I've never checked to see if the plates above the fuel pump matched the body stamped number. Yes, you need the missing oval plate and you're right, older cars had a rectangular plate. That was phased our very early 59.
After you exhaust these possibilities, your last resort would be to acquire a ID plate from another Morris. People have saved them and sometimes they have a title. The body style may or may not be relevant depending if your state includes it in the title. Not too many people will get all worked up about doing something like that for a 54 year old car.

[POMMReg]

Without a serial number, which as mention starts with MA3TL, the DMV won't be able to do much. I doubt that it would be 823***. It would more likely be 6 or 7***** because it most likely was built in 59, but could have been titled as late as 62. does anyone know if British Heritage can tie a body number into a MA3TL serial number? The body number is stamped directly into the firewall in the area around the spot where the hood pull comes through the firewall. I've never checked to see if the plates above the fuel pump matched the body stamped number. Yes, you need the missing oval plate and you're right, older cars had a rectangular plate. That was phased our very early 59.
After you exhaust these possibilities, your last resort would be to acquire a ID plate from another Morris. People have saved them and sometimes they have a title. The body style may or may not be relevant depending if your state includes it in the title. Not too many people will get all worked up about doing something like that for a 54 year old car.

Body number dates it to 3/60, therefore c823***

How did you conclude it as 6*****/7*****?

[jaekl]

I didn't catch that the body number has been identified. I've never had to deal with the body number since I've had paperwork. Is it BME64255? It's great that you have access to information that ties that to 823*** area of serial numbers. I'm sorry that went over my head. My response was based on most cars in the States, especially the East Coast are 6 or 7*****.

[tach00]

Well, i cleaned her up and got all the trash out of the interior and trunk, took all four tyres off, took the froze up hood rack off, put her up on blocks and then i got the lights, blinkers, ignition and dash switches and lights working today, also cleaned out the oil pan and cylinders, put the core plug back in, and had the motor turning over a few times, getting no fire tho, but its still a good sign that the motor isn't frozen. tomorrow i am gonna try to work out why there is no fire and see if i can't get it to turn over and try to crank. POMMReg, i looked under the fuse boxes around the Bonnet puller on the outside, and all under the dash on the inside, and whats left of the floor pans, front and back, and could not locate a chassis number anywhere. Next i will look under the bottom and in the boot.

BUT ALL IN ALL... my Morris Minor is one step closer than she was to being back in running condition.

P.S. Does anyone know what the thing is above the carburetor that has a screw on lid, with a dipstick, and with what looks to be oil inside it, its shaped like a bell and looks like its attached to the carburetor. Never seen one like that before.

Thanks guys,
Jake-

[GBond]

Well you seem to have saved the electrical harness, that's pretty good.

What you're talking about is the air filter, it's an oil bath type (and frankly I don't know much about them either).

Get the Haynes Manual and if you can a few other books as well, that should help you quite a lot.

[MarkyB]

The rod in the top of the carb is the damper for the piston inside, there should be a little oil in there.
If you take the air cleaner off you will see the piston. You should be able to lift it with your finger and it should make a noise when you let it drop.

[rogerowen]

It's part of the SU carburettor. You put oil in it to lubricate the damper (not full - just up to the line, about 10mm below the top. The dipstick is actually a piston, you'll note that it will feel hard to push it down once you have oil in there. Specified oil grade is 20 SAE - although some people might sugest 30 SAE to compensate for wear.

[GBond]

I need to stop posting so late at night, Mark and Roger are correct, and your car appears to have a dry air filter in the pictures.