hi,
could anyone tell me the order of reassembly for the master cylinder. I think it is this please tell me if i am wrong:-
small black rubber washer, rubber seal(i am removing to fit discs), spring(does the spring fit with the small or the large end first?), cup type seal, small gasket/washer, piston, seal and circlip. Am i missing anything here?
cheers
Martyn
Master Cylinder reassembly
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- Minor Fan
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- Minor Fan
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In order to fit the circlip:
Rotate master cylinder body through 90 degrees anticlockwise relative to the picture and secure it in a vice.
Insert all the other bits and pieces as in the picture including the Piston and Piston Stop (washer).
(NB the Secondary cup fits in a groove in the Piston.)
Use a large Phillips screwdriver to push the Piston into the cylinder with one hand. Use the other hand to fit the circlip, ideally using the correct tool.
Rotate master cylinder body through 90 degrees anticlockwise relative to the picture and secure it in a vice.
Insert all the other bits and pieces as in the picture including the Piston and Piston Stop (washer).
(NB the Secondary cup fits in a groove in the Piston.)
Use a large Phillips screwdriver to push the Piston into the cylinder with one hand. Use the other hand to fit the circlip, ideally using the correct tool.
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- Minor Addict
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Out of interest folksies, how easy is it to check the state of a M/C? - After the ongoing saga with the brakes I'm thinking it may be worth removing the M/C (And yes, I know it's a pain to remove) and check the state of the bore before going the full hog and ordering a new one... (A complete new M/C that is - if the bore is fine then I could just renovate it...)
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- Minor Fan
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The brake fluid absorbs water after a time. This collects along the lowest side of the master cylinder causing it to rust at that point.
If you clean the inside of the M/C it is possible to see if this has happened either by running your finger along the inside of the bore where you would expect it to rust or by shining a light down it and doing a visual inspection.
It is also possible for the seals to perish and need replacing without the need to replace the M/C body iteself.
If you clean the inside of the M/C it is possible to see if this has happened either by running your finger along the inside of the bore where you would expect it to rust or by shining a light down it and doing a visual inspection.
It is also possible for the seals to perish and need replacing without the need to replace the M/C body iteself.
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If you are going to the hassle of removing and re-fitting the M/C then I would just order a new one (if the old one's age is unknown) as it's only about £50 (or a bit less) and it's worth the peace of mind to replace it with new.
I would not consider fitting a new seal kit to the Minor M/C either as it's just penny pinching. I did to my MG though, but that's because the bore was good (just a split seal) and a new M/C was over £250!
I would not consider fitting a new seal kit to the Minor M/C either as it's just penny pinching. I did to my MG though, but that's because the bore was good (just a split seal) and a new M/C was over £250!
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- Minor Addict
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Thanks guys...
Am contemplating buying the whole shebang as the last time I cut corners I ended up regretting it...
Am contemplating buying the whole shebang as the last time I cut corners I ended up regretting it...
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[url=http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/]A Minor Journey[/url] A neogreen musician, her girlfriend and a cast of thousands!
Keep track of the restoration with the live webcam!
[url=http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/]A Minor Journey[/url] A neogreen musician, her girlfriend and a cast of thousands!
Keep track of the restoration with the live webcam!