Clutch & Gearbox replacement project - nearly done

[bmcecosse]

My clutch tool is the dowel shaft of the valve grind tool - with a some black tape wrapped round to make up the size.... It works. And yes - just fit new bushings......I've had a full set 'in stock' for 10 years now - bought when they urgently needed renewing - I'll get round to it one day soon, maybe....

[gtt1951]

Finally had time to get the gearbox out[frame][/frame]and here it is with loads of black oil splatter inside the bell housing[frame][/frame]The snapped off brass bolt can be seen in the cross member[frame][/frame]and here is the "supported" top part of the engine[frame][/frame]Out of all the instructions I read, in 3 different manuals, all mentioned to take out the Starter Motor bolts, but NONE said you had to completely withdraw the motor as you cannot turn the bell-housing otherwise.
It was a struggle to get the gearbox off and I eventually succeeded doing this from within the car - and dropped it down. Great problems in trying to get the remote over to the underside of the floor pan - very tight - and I envisage problems in getting the replacement box fitted. May need an extra pair of helping hands.
After getting the clutch housing off, found that the fitted clutch plate looks very different to the new replacement.
Original 1098 engine/gearbox plate on left, with replacement 1098 plate on right
Flywheel side[frame][/frame]and gearbox side[frame][/frame]
Both units are AP (or so they say) and the used cover plate is below[frame][/frame]Can anyone please comment on the plate contruction?
Also, it now looks like I will have to replace the metal fuel line - original is steel and the replacements seem to be copper, which require massive shaping.

[midengineracer]

The replacement is an alloy, not just copper. Supposedly copper is too brittle when exposed to vibrations. The shaping isn't difficult but you do need a tool. I use a little hand tool that cost ~$5 when I bought it 10 years ago.

[katy]

Great problems in trying to get the remote over to the underside of the floor pan - very tight - and I envisage problems in getting the replacement box fitted. May need an extra pair of helping hands.

Do it the easy way: Leave the remote off untill the gearbox (transmission in my lingo) is back in place.

[gtt1951]

Katy, I may well have to do that as the top of the rear of the remote snags on the floor panel/tunnel.
When I came out to work on the car, this morning (took day off from work to try to finish the job), spotted that the hydraulic jack holding up the rear of the engine had let itself down
Had to rush off and buy another one as tests showed a problem with the existing one (which I have had for over 30 years).
New red jack can be seen in position after I had fitted the replacement clutch plate and new pressure plate housing[frame][/frame]
then refit the rubber mounts onto the replacement gearbox[frame][/frame] then tried to get the box back into the car, using the now "repaired" original jack (and wood blocks) as positioning support. Jack a bit, re-arrange from inside car, re-chock, jack some more and wait for rain to stop, then re-position and try to turn bell-housing and push the input shaft in - that remote kept getting stuck on the floor pan![frame][/frame]By this time torrential rain had started and I was soaking wet, tired and arms hurting (loads of cuts from floor pan edges. Had to pull box back and support in a safe position so as not to stress the input shaft, and gave up for the evening.[frame][/frame]Above is a ground shot (during rain) showing the two supporting jacks and the ramps. Next shot is to give idea of car angle[frame][/frame]Rain stopped about 30 mins ago, so I dried off the car and covered it for the night.
I'll have to return the badly made clutch control shaft, to Moss in the morning, and then wait for another dry day off to get that gearbox in - I'll try to call in a 2nd pair of hands. Must get off to my MMOC Branch meeting now.

[bmcecosse]

Oh dear - the joys of gearbox changing... I feel for you....

[brucek]

I think part of the problems is that the floorpan was designed for the 803 box which has a different profile to the later 948 and 1098 box that you are using now. There was no remote gearchange on the Series 2 gearbox so no need for the floor to accomodate it. Certainly with this arrangement, the engine out method would be the best way in future to address any clutch or gearbox issues. Hindsight eh.... wonder why none of us spotted that before the job was started???

[gtt1951]

Brucek, Hindsight is a perfect science. The floor pan was altered a bit, or rather the replacement welded in floor sections are the "angle cut" later ones, but I don't know how far back the later transmission "hump" was located.
I have an 803 enging and gearbox, together with the correct tunnel but, if fitted back, would need to do some welding to close up the gaps.
In the meantime, I'm taking Katy's advise and will be removing the remote. Just been outside and done a "dry run" on the old box[frame][/frame]and, as you can see, two of the studs came out as well (3 actually, but I managed to get the nut off the other one). I'm hoping that this will not happen on the one that is currently under the car. Gaskets are required for refit (circled in yellow) and, as it happens, the gasket set I got a little while ago, has some[frame][/frame]
I'm also revisiting my last post to fix the spelling mistakes! I've taken Thursday and Friday off as leave to finish the refit.
Oh I forgot - I got the clutch relay shaft replaced by a correctly made one.

[katy]

It might be easier if you remove all the studs and reinstall them later.

[gtt1951]

I got home quite late on Wednesday night, but found time to change clothes and remove the remote - came off cleanly and so did the gaskets, although the large one did rip slightly. all the studs stayed put. Tried to remove the 2 rearmost ones, but they didn't want to shift, using a Mole Grip.[frame][/frame]There should be enough space now anyway - don't want to cause any stud damage. Floor "tunnel" in this car can be seen in the next picture[frame][/frame]and the "bell" is nearly there[frame][/frame]Having forgotten to put the special spline grease in, did so tonight by applying the contents of the sachet (a red grease) to the alignment tool and pushed that into the clutch plate centre.
All ready for the final "lift" tomorrow and I will ask a neighbour to help screw in at least one bolt, at the top, from inside the engine compartment.

[gtt1951]

Well, Katy's suggestion did the trick and I got the gearbox back in, single-handed.[frame][/frame]Had to refit the remote[frame][/frame]so I could add the gearstick to put the box in reverse to aid refitting the moving spline propshaft connector.
Alas! I cannot get the blessed propshaft back on - try as I might. The sliding spline connector goes on as far as the recess in the propshaft mounted part, but I cannot get the splines lined up! With the output shaft in reverse, it doesn't turn clock-wise and I've been fitting the shaft and rotating clock-wise to try and get a spline line-up.
It doesn't want to know. I've even measured the diameter of the output shaft on both the original box and this used Gold-Seal replacement box (using a digital caliper), just in case - thay are both the same size.
So what am I doing wrong? Help!

[gtt1951]

Called another local member and they confirmed that it is a pig to get the spline unit back on!
Armed with that info, I attacked the problem again - at last, got it on yippeeee
Then came another problem - the yellow oil pastel line-up marks I made, had rubbed off the propshaft flange due to the amount of turns I had made to get the splines on - the flange end was rotating on a protective sheet of plastic card laid on the ground.
So - I may have the prop on 180 deg out! I am currently fitting the new clutch relay linkage back on and have had to stop as my left arm seems to have gone numb, from the shoulder down, including the the thumb and some fingers - must have trapped a nerve when struggling with the prop as my neck is also hurting.

[bmcecosse]

50/50 chance it's right -and actually a VERY GOOD chance it won't matter a jot anyway! I can't really see how removing the remote make it any easier (slightly lighter of course..) but as long as it's on - and the 1st motion shaft hasn't damaged the clutch OR been hanging on the crankshaft tail.... well done ! Hope you put a new bush in the crank tail - or at least checked the one in there is good...... As for neck/numbness - sounds worrying... If not right in the morning after a good HOT shower, better get down to A&E... Take the Workshop Manual with you to have something to read while you wait 4 hours..or more....

[gtt1951]

Have had a hot shower, but numbness still there. Finished the work at about 19:30, then had to clear up. Car is off the ramps now.
Did the old trick of not getting the lower dizzy cap latch in position before refitting the starter motor - had to take it out again. On the road test, lower left trouser leg became black - the oil pressure gauge pipe fitting had come loose and was merrily leaking all over my work trousers, sock and shoe!
Didn't get up to high enough speeds to notice any imbalance in the prop.
Gearbox had definitely not been hanging - it was disconnected and supported by a hydraulic jack. Removing the remote meant that there was room to swing the tail up and past the floor prop tunnel - you can see the gap between back of remote and the tunnel, with the gearbox fully pushed forward and seated in the next picture - not a lot of room
[frame][/frame]Will try to get an appointment with my Osteopath about the neck/shoulder/arm/hand.
Not very happy with the seating of the spherical bearing retainer plate[frame][/frame]it has distorted and doesn't marry up properly. Either the spherical bearing dislodged itself off the end of the shaft, or the bearing is too big, or the new plate is made of weak metal.
Just need to dig out the rest of the debris (mainly looks like soil) out of the righ-hand member that the brake master cylinder sits in - see rubbish spooned out so far[frame][/frame]and then refit the gearbox tunnel with new screws and some fresh sealant.
George.

[welshrat]

A spot of grease in each hole before fitting new screws will make life easier for the next time you need to do all that. Also give the chassis legs a good helping of waxoil type stuff before sealing them up. Or leave the 'soil' in there and grow a few spuds, although its a bit late in the season now!

[bmcecosse]

Good work! Err - that's RUST !! Spray in rust killer - followed a few hours later by waxoyl - lots of it...

[M25VAN]

Respect. That's a good job you've done there and not even in the comfort of your own garage/drive. I bet you feel very pleased.

[jagnut66]

Well done!
Last time I had to change my clutch I had to take the engine and gearbox out, as there is not enough room to drop the gearbox separately on a 1275, especially a type 9, this was on a side road with a friend watching out / holding things.
So you, if it's any consolation, you are not alone in working outside in the pouring rain etc.
Best wishes and happy motoring,
Mike.

[gtt1951]

Removed more "debris" from right chassis leg (and also a bit from the left one) - using my "dirty work" old vacuum cleaner with narrow nozzle. Debris seems to consist of damp soil, fine rust, paint flakes, bits of electrical insulation tape, metal pieces (like off cuts from weld repairs) and globs of dropped in mastic/sealant from the tunnel cover.
Underneath all the rubbish is shiney metal in most places. Also used my Lidl camera to have a look all the way past the torsion bar through mounting. It all looks quite good.
Will put in anti-rust stuff (liquid Jenolite - can't get the Gel) and will pour this into an old hand-sprayer to spray in.
When I bought the car, last September, it cames with lots of spares which included an unused Waxoyl kit in a snazzy "toolbox".
I have ordered a new set of brass gear tunnel screws and dished washers (from ESM) as the ones I took out were (a) not all there and (b) all the cross heads were very damaged. I had no problems making up a sufficient order to qualify for the free P&P as I also needed some bits for my Series MM.
The following image is from the right chassis member before this morning's vaccum session - I have now removed all old mastic, sealant, PUTTY and "cement".[frame][/frame]
The "rod" in the picture is the brake pedal arm and you can see all the gunge (on the left) that was previously used to seal the cover to the floor.
Also I have been to an Osteopath. Couldn't get an appointment with my usual one as the "receptionist" couldn't understand the concept of "emergency" and was quoting me August 29th! (she couldn't get through to the actual practitioner to check and quoted me the next "free" slot).
Instead I called the practice my daughter had been to and got a 15:00hrs appointment when I called at 11:00.
Some small change has been noticed after manipulation (and some pushing and pulling), with a follow up on Monday.
Just as well I'm still a member of the HSA (now called Simplyhealth) as I can claim back a percentage of the fees.

[gtt1951]

Performed a longer road test, today, after getting some Fire Putty to place around the exhaust manifold exit throat as I've been having truble with getting a good gas seal (even fitted a new clamp). Putty has got rid of the "blow" and noise.
Replacement used Gold Seal gearbox performed very well and is a lot quieter than the one I took out, even though the test run was made with the gearbox tunnel not fitted - certainly spotted the gearbox to propshaft sliding spline fitting producing a fine spray of oil onto the floor pan.
I have also sprayed in some Jenolite into both chassis legs, but took this picture of the passenger-side one before spraying[frame][/frame]
Anyone spot the "deliberate mistake" (not the bits of surface rust) by the specialist restorer that replaced the floor?