torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment

[CaliMorris]

So i started hooking up the steering and suspension on the front passenger side of the car, and it all went well, except when i have the front end all put together, the torsion bar lever is jammed up against the floor VERY VERY hard. my haynes manual says to pry it down and secure it with a bolt. but i suspect that there is something wrong when i can't get a 6 ft pry bar above it, even with a few love-taps with a sledge hammer.
I dissassembled it all again, and have been trying to figure out the best way to remove the torsion bar lever, rotate it slightly, and then re-attach it. Is this just a matter of a lot of oil, heat and tapping? or is there a better way to adjust it?
Also, how do i know when the torsion bar is in the correct hole? eyeballing it? putting it in the same hole as the torsion bar on the other side?
Sorry about the dumb questions, it's my first car restoration.

[MarkyB]

You need to have the tension off the torsion bar before you attach the cross member end, if you didn't mark the bar and arm to get them back in the same place there is a measurement you can use to get it at least roughly right.
Off the top of my head I don't recall it but someone will be along who does.

[bmcecosse]

Don't even THINK of moving the rear reaction arm on the T bar. The front arm can be tapped back on the arm more easily (because it tends to be oily..) - so set the rear arm on the plate - yes-same as other side and assemble - and then you can easily set the height with the font arm on it's splines when you come to assemble the front end.

[CaliMorris]

cool stuff, i'll go separate the front end of the torsion bar in the morning, how do i know if the level of the wheel is right before i reconnect it?

[bmcecosse]

You can't be completely sure - so just assemble loosely and set the car on the ground - if it needs to go up or down - it is only a couple of minutes work to move the arm down or up a spline. The suspension will settle slightly anyway as soon as you start to use it.

[CaliMorris]

thanks!

[les]

This is the assembly measurement.

[bmcecosse]

With full weight of the car including engine & gearbox on the suspension.

[les]

With car jacked up and lower arm hanging. Vertical distance between the two pivot points

[bmcecosse]

That's no setting then les - it will be hanging on the rebound stop, and will give that dimension no matter where the splines are......

[MarkyB]

lower arm hanging

That's the one, thanks.

[bmcecosse]

It's not a guide MarkyB - the T bar is doing nothing in that situation....

[MarkyB]

It's not doing nothing, it's holding the lower arm in a certain position.
All standard torsion bars are the same thickness, all Minors weigh more or less the same, it will at least give a good starting point.

[les]

I think we are at odds here, it's the assembly dimension without the leg being involved, just the lower arm fitted to the appropriate spline to achieve that measurement. From there the rest of the suspension can then be built.

[bmcecosse]

But you show the king pin attached - so I'm assuming it is also attached to the top arm......which will be sitting on the rebound stop..... So the lower arm is constrained by the kingpin link to the top arm - on the bump stop.......

[les]

No, that's just the way It's shown in the manual to show the orientation of the parts Never assume in car mechanics!
The rebound stop isn't involved.

[bmcecosse]

It is - if the T bar is under 'torsion'!

[les]

If the T bar is under torsion maybe but we have established it is not! It is under no strain it just has the lower arm hanging on the end positioned on the splines that give the appropriate measurement!

[bmcecosse]

But but but - it can't be, if attached to the king pin - as shown! Seriously - this is a storm in a T cup. Both my T bars are lying on the garage floor right now - do you think I carefully marked them ?? No way - it's a moments work to fit them - try the height - if not right - knock them back then up/down as necessary till it's right.... Messing about with tape measure....gaaaahhh. On the subject - does anyone know why the rear spacer/washer is open on one side - is it just for convenience in fitting - although how it helps escapes me at the moment............

[les]

It is NOT attached ! --and you don't need to mark them, just fit the arm over the splines to end up with the measurement, then assemble!----I'm outa here!!!