Pickup restoration part three

[perkinsp3]

Hi David
As Bob says the gap should be 0.635mm. If you use two feelers (either 0.50+0.15 or 0.60+0.05) then that gives you 0.65mm which is slightly too big. This actually equates to 0.0256" which is less than a thou bigger.
So a very gently tap as suggested should see it right
Please double check my calcs, but I think I've worked it out correctly
Pete

[aupickup]

the barrel comes out without dismantling the switch
well mine do

[Trickydicky]

Hi David, divide your metric figure by 25.4 to work out its english equivilent and multiply your english figure by 25.4 to get your metric equivilent.
eg .635mm/25.4 = .0025" and .0025"*25.4 = .635mm

Sorry if I am teaching you to suck the proverbial......

[davidmiles]

thanks for that guys. I decided to try and fit the new switch unit, so I wired it in, using the original as a guide, though some of the posts are deleted on this version, low and behold it worked, but the threaded barrel is made wider that the old one[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

I didn't expect to have to file the hole wider to fit the new part, but here goes..[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

David
Keep the old locking nut as a spare before you bin the old ignition switch.Even if the thread doesn't quite fit the new, it is useful to have, as I've struggled to buy a spare in the past.The terminals on the old one certainly look as through they have seen some service,lots of stop/ start motoring in the past ?

When you're at the stage of tightening up the bezel nut, make a cardboard sheet with a cut out circle, slightly larger than the
ignition switch. Tape it to the metal work temporarily.It will save a damaged fascia when you struggle with crossed flat screwdrivers or thin nosed pliers trying to get the bezel tight.
The bezel nut on the outside will only fasten on so far and no more .So to get a grip, loosen off the backing nut towards where the key is inserted.
I got fed up with the ignition barrel moving further around each time I started the car that I bought the proper tool.
Bob

[les]

Switch diameter different size! When is this hopeless spares situation going to improve! (well I know the answer----it's not) I think its a conspiracy to make people fed up with restoring old bangers. Here's one person its worked on!!

[davidmiles]

thanks for that Bob great idea, When I replace the wire on the battery the red and orange warning lights come up without the switch being turned to first position, Ive got one of my white wires on the wrong terminal of the switch. But I fixed my panel lights, loose wire in the under dash switch, I'm making progress.

Les, it's really helpful having someone on here with your experience, helps us rookies solve many problems, even if you do give up on old motors, stay with us and share your wisdom.[frame][/frame]

[les]

I shall be hanging on for the forseeable Dave with general maintenance stuff but no more big projects for me. Maybe to stop the tools going rusty, I'll look out for a 60s lambretta, I can just imagine having it on a bench in the middle of the garage and being able to walk around it, rather than laying on the floor with an angle grinder and a face full of rust!! Anyone got a old Lambretta tucked away in their shed?

[mogbob]

David
Can you give us a photo of the terminals at the back and a part number of the switch please,so we can double check the wiring for you.I'm thinking it should be a Lucas 31973.I 'll check the wiring colours in the morning.
Bob
Sunday a.m. assuming it's a Lucas 31973 terminal 1 White /Red Terminal 2 two White Terminal 3 Brown / Blue
( details taken from a new loom ).

[davidmiles]

what a long hot shift that was, really dragged, hate working sundays, but at least it's paid employment, now to what I really like working on, My Morris. Thanks for the head up on the wire positions there Bob, sounds like you were spot on. I have to swap the white and brown/blue wires around.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

wires correctly replaced in order 1 red white, 2 x2 white and three blue/brown, battery on, switch off and no warning lights till first position, third position triggers the starter motor. Spot on Bob. It'll all come off again tomorrow when the ignition lock barrel and key arrives from ESM. Then I can think about restarting procedure.[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

David
I'll take a break for the moment... you're on the home straight.I'm hopefully finishing off the re-wire of my mate's moggy, on our usual Tuesday session.Brake bleeding and adjustment after that.
Always something to do ! Still ...the weathers fine, beats the rain dripping down your neck.
Bob

[davidmiles]

thanks for your help Bob, you're a Legend. I would not have got as far as I have without everyone's online help on this noticeboard. So, with the ignition switch now working I'm checking through my non start for the problem, first there's no spark at no1 sparkplug[frame][/frame]

tracing back to the HT LEAD, connected to the coil end, but with the end that goes into the distributer taped so that the metal is 1 mm from the lifting eye, in this shot it looks to be in contact, it's just the angle, no spark, changed HT lead for this red one and a nice fat blue spark, bingo, it was the HT lead. Now for the timing adjustment, I've not messed with this so I'm quite apprehensive that I might make matters worse. So do I use the micrometer adjuster or slowly crank the whole Distributer around a few mil? and which way?[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

I have for better or worse, and I'm beginning to suspect it's the latter, I have an electronic distributer, no points. The micrometer adjuster is top left of frame. Now do I go a few mm clockwise or anti clockwise, I guess it's a case of see how the engine reacts.

[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

David
From setting up a distributer from scratch, I find the "centre" of the adjusting position of the micrometer.Count the number of revolutions to end stops and divide by two.
Loosen the clamp so that the distributer can rotate against slight hand pressure ( i.e. not sloppy just minimal resistance ).
Rotate left or right ( experiment )...just a fraction at a time... to get the fastest / even tickover.When you are happy, stop the engine and tighten the clamp.
Take the car for run and do your" final" adjustments on the micrometer ( remember as you are starting from the centre you can adjust advance and retard, safe in the knowledge that you shouldn't run out of " adjustment ".

Given that the car was running before, unless the distributer clamp was very loose and that you've lost the start point completely
I would try tweaking the micrometer wheel myself.Count and record the number of clicks and whether advance or retard direction so you can " get back ".
Keep loose clothing / hands/ etc away from the fan belt end.
Bob

[davidmiles]

Things advanced quite quickly this morning, I took Bobs advice and used the micrometer adjuster, 1mm clockwise, and the engine started, running roughly, until I added three more mil. listening to the engine run ever more smoothly, great, Somehow the vacuum advance has become retarded just a little, and all since I've had the engine out to renew those rear gaskets. Great, now I can work on fine tuning my new Carb using Bob's instructions above.[frame][/frame]

[chrisryder]

Dare I point out that the carb and the dizzy ARE connected?

It's only since you mentioned the vacuum advance that made me think! Is it possible the vac pipe take-off on the old carb was blocked, and now you've got a clean new carb it's finally working, pulling the timing out of tune?

I've just had a look back through your pictures, your vac pipe is rather large! Normally they're only about 1mm bore.

[davidmiles]

Hi Chris, the tube is a tight fit over the nipple at the carburettor end, it is a small internal diameter, my problem has been trying to get the car restarted with the new Carb fitted, I've gone back and forth with the micrometre adjustments and failed to get a whiff of a start, then I've scrubbed it and tried to centralise the micrometre, now I don't know where I am, think I've lost the timing. All I get now is the starter motor whirring around, bet the neighbours are about to scream.[frame][/frame]

[whyperion]

When all else fails (assume you have (new) fuel in the float chamber, try a quick easy start spray , you should get firing , which seemed to help my engine get running .