Pickup restoration part three

[irmscher]

Great Thread David and hope the trip goes ok fingers crossed

[davidmiles]

well after applying my best effort, I only managed to slow the leak to a slow drip. I'll have to take a bottle of coolant with me tomorrow.[frame][/frame]

[les]

The secret with soldering is to remove all the paint and wire wool the base metal. After that, using flux, tin the surface all round the area then build up the solder with controlled heat. Maybe worth trying again after your trip.

[Trickydicky]

I agree with les, buy a tub of flux, http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/420124 give it a good clean, apply a dollop of flux,warm it up with a blowtorch and let it run around the joint then touch the solder onto the joint and let it flow

[davidmiles]

thanks I'll give that a go. In fact the Radiator stopped dripping on my journey to ESM, My problem, was fuel starvation half way. The car was kangarooing until I stopped and couldn't get her started again. A decent fellow from the cottage I stopped outside used to own a Triumph with two su carbs on it. We talked through the problem, squirting petrol on turnover, not the pump, took off the air filter and raised the cylinder in the carb and it must have cleared some debris off the needle, she started right away and gratefully got me home. I have a new friend in East Sussex, wish I'd asked him his name, his wife kindly asked me if I wanted a cup of tea, but I was eager to see if she would run properly. Thank you whomever you are. Got home, ordered a brand new HS2 Carb from Bull Motif, the Morris Minor section didn't have any in stock, so they patched me through to MINI's. They said they're the same, don't come with Gaskets! at £182, you'd think they would.[frame][/frame]

[aupickup]

new ones on ebay are £120 and totaly recon ones are £55

[aupickup]

but also not much to go wrong with them, a rebuild kit is only £38

[davidmiles]

I know Dennis, The Bull motif one's are meant to be top notch quality. I'll keep everone posted on how that turns out. So, with my dirt in the fuel problem giving me an anxious moment on the road yeaterday, I fitted the in-line fuel filter I've had sitting in it's box for the last six months. I know some folk on here think they're unnessasary, but I'm willing to give it a try. I've run the engine and checked it for leaks, seems to be ok, but I'll keep a weary eye on it.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

when I got up and checked the car there was no sign of a coolant leak under the car, I'd left my matt on the ground under the front where I'd been working fitting a split pin to the bonnet lever, when I went to move the matt it was soaking wet. Having fitted the in-line filter and run the engine water was dripping out from the bottom hose, on no not another cracked pipe, I exclaimed, both hands on head. But the wetness was up under the jubilee clip, one of Mog Bobs "nip ups", and the radiator was leak free, phew, It's been that kind of day, now to paint my Soffits, now where's that ladder?[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

David
It seems my past little tip of " nip ups " has become a legacy.. a sign of my ever increasing age !
Pity really... I was working on a replacement radiator for you .....priced at a bargain £200 !!
Glad you're sorted... the joys of classic motoring.I've still got a headache from a day on re-wiring all the extras on my mate's
Moggy...Rear fog, heated windscreen,reversing light and hazards, etc.
Bob

[davidmiles]

cheers Bob, Your mates Moggie seems to have all the mod cons. Mine on the other hand is as basic as can be, and that's enough to keep me busy. My Bull Motif new Carb arrived today, looks nice and shiney.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the gasket's between the plate and the inlet port needed renewing[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

once I'd cleaned off all the surfaces and added brand new gaskets, the new one bolted on easily. Now for the hard bit, adjusting the mixture..[frame][/frame]

[horologiumwatches]

Nothing like shiny new bits. Looks good. Keep up the good work.... Oh and paint your front shock absorbers black....

[davidmiles]

thanks, shiny new bits always look good don't they, but my shiny new bit is causing me worries, I've started and run the engine and driven around the block, I wasn't quite happy with the mixture, it sounded to be running a little rough. Couldn't start at all this morning, and after some adjustment got some horrible clunks and clacking sound on start up, what have I done?[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

I got the wife to turn the key as I watched for the location of the clunks, and they came from the Carb piston clanking shut and releasing a momentary cloud of white vapour that disappeared almost immediately, every second. Have I overfilled the dash pot with oil ? maybe it's just that Ive overadjusted the jet settings one way or another.[frame][/frame]

[mogbob]

David
The damper oil should be 1/2 " / 13mm below the hollow piston rod.If you have overfilled then remove excess with either a cotton bud or the twisted end of a bit of kitchen paper roll.
With engine warmed up to normal operating temperature what happened when you lifted the piston lift pin ?

A "rich " mixture would cause a considerable and sustained increase in rpm.
A " weak " mixture would result in a marked and immediate decrease in rpm and possibly stall / stop the engine.
With the " correct " mixture the result should be a very slight and short increase in rpm before settling back to normal.
You can then adjust the idle speed correctly.
If you are struggling to get the car going, start afresh.Wind the jet right up.Check the piston is still free to drop cleanly and then wind the jet adjusting nut down 1 1/2 or 2 times ( spot of Tippex/Correction fluid on one "flat " of the nut helps the counting process ).That should give you the basis to get it going.
During your tuning, blip the accelerator every now and again, so that any slight build up of fuel is cleared.Do one flat at a time and check the effect by lifting the pin.The sound, steadiness, urgency of the engine will give you the clue when you've got it right.A trip around the block to double check you have no hesitation or flat spots.Check the choke adjustment and oil mechanism
lightly generally.
Bob

[davidmiles]

thank you Bob, with your advice there I've got it running again and the clanking of the carb piston has ceased, but for some unknown reason the starter motor is jammed on when I run the engine, have I developed an electrical fault as a result of my carb dealings?

[davidmiles]

sorted it, I found a q&A on a Landrover site and they suggested to someone with the same problem to rock the car back and forth in 2nd gear to free the starter motor pinion, and low and behold it worked.

[mogbob]

David
The two are un-connected.
Rocking works, as does an adjustable spanner on the square end of the starter pinion shaft ( that protrudes from the front of the motor.Ignition switched off of course ! You should then be able to spin the shaft between two fingers.

If it keeps on happening, dis-connect the battery and whip out the starter motor and clean off the pinion with some meths.
Again with the battery dis-connected make sure your main thick cables... battery to solenoid...solenoid to starter motor... are clean and well bolted down.

Well done on sorting the carb out.See how she goes on the open road and adjust the nut, one flat at a time ( recording which way you adjusted, so you can return it to the start position.)
Some people find that the timing needs just the slightest tweak.If happy with the mixture, try the micrometre adjustment on the side of the distributer , again noting " what you did, if the anticipated "improvement" does not materialise.
Bob