Fitting the temperature sender was quite easy as the 1098 head already had a blanking plug fitted. As I bought the Gauge and Sender as a set (hopefully for accuracy), I had to use a reducer[frame]
I cable-tied the connecting wire to parts of the wiring loom[frame]
and then through the bulkhead via a gap alongside the loom entry (this will be seen in the next set of pictures when the copper oil pressure pipe had to be fed through.
Fitting the oil pressure pipe and adapters was a lot more time consuming as the T-piece adapter (to allow retention of the original pressure switch) was a bit stubby - I had to use some PTFE tape on the tapered thread to give it a tight fit at the correct orientation point. It took a few goes to do this - not a lot of room for my large hands[frame]
At the bulkhead end, the pipe with olive already soldered in and its fitting nut would not go through any existing grommet spaces, so I had to drill a 12mm hole (also had a tough time fitting a rubber grommet to the pipe).[frame]
Pipe, nut, grommet and hole in one pic - also note the blue temperature sender wire[frame]
Of course, I couldn't leave bare metal on the drilled hole, so I painted it with some handy Humbrol green enamel, I happened to have lying around[frame]
Pipe now passed through bulkhead and connected to rear of the gauge[frame]
The next image is of the pressure gauge showing oil pressure, engine "cold" and filled with the incorrect SAE30 oil which, BMC, I drained today and refilled with 20/50 oil.
[frame]
Following picture shows "cold" engine and 20/50 oil pressure[frame]
and then settling down to these readings at tick-over[frame]
Question now is, are these readings satisfactory?
Regards, George.
