MIG Welding

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I only bought the 'no gas' wire as a back up in case I get stuck for gas - or (because I will be working outside) the gas is blown away by the fresh clear ecosse wind which is omnipresent these days........ It will mainly be 'plug' welds - maybe the gasless will work better there ? I'll try both ways. I do have oxy /acet - but I try to save that for when nothing else will do. The gas bottles will be difficult to refill........

[taupe]

Roy

Assuming you will be drilling out your old spot welds from the floor above the crossmember ...an 1/8" pilot hole then a 6 to 8mm drill will ensure all of the old spotweld is removed. Using the spiral welding technique as above you will get good penetration of the new crossmember metal which is a lot thicker than the floor.

You may already know this but lightly sanding over the area helps to reveal the spot weld positions, you can then mark them with tippex ready for drilling.





Taupe

[bmcecosse]

Thanks Taupe! This is JUST the sort of information and pictures I need! I assume you have done the job then? Have you any pictures showing where the Xmember is welded to the structure of the car with 'solid' weld runs?

[taupe]

Roy

The long weld runs (which are underneath) are shown in the pics by the long tippex lines.. 4 at the back and 4 at the front. If you remove the paint you will probably see the heat marks from these welds on your traveller.

I dont think these stitch welds continued on the outer legs but am not 100 % sure.

The spot welds were only on the front half of the crossmember on my car, again Im not sure about the legs but think it was the same.

Taupe

[bmcecosse]

Ahh thanks! I was going to ask if there should be two lines of spot welds. I guess no harm doing so when I fit the new one.