Waxoil, is it the same stuff??

[LobbyLudd]

Always thought 'Waxoil' was a brand name (perhaps it is still claimed to be by a manufacturer begining with Hamm?)

However this is now appearing on the market..... Waxoil by 'Carplan' in decent size 5L tins resulting in being appreciably less pricey now on the likes of fleebay for instance , than the one I thought was the only ' Waxiol'
(Not the black underseal version by the way but I refer to the 'spray on' one for box sections & nooks & crannies)

On the basis of doing anything rather than nothing much to help the onslaught of the dreaded 'Tin Worm' in our Moggies.... anyone tried this one??

I know some have said they find Waxoil inferior to several even more expensive products and probably will again !! ...........
But I did wonder- why the very noticeable price difference if there is possibly a standard Waxoil recipe ? or have we now a lesser grade Waxoil 'stuff' just to confuse us. ????

[LouiseM]

Always thought 'Waxoil' was a brand name (perhaps it is still claimed to be by a manufacturer begining with Hamm?)

The Hammerite brand name is Waxoyl.

[LobbyLudd]

Always thought 'Waxoil' was a brand name (perhaps it is still claimed to be by a manufacturer begining with Hamm?)

The Hammerite brand name is Waxoyl.

Aaah yes! - thanks, so it is!! (The wonderful world of generic product promotion and 'branding' awareness)

Still is the much cheaper per litre 'stuff' as good as I wonder if so you get a fair bit more for you dosh ?

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Old school rust prevention was by old engine oil liberally poured and sprayed in the sills and underneath. It is more fluid than Waxoyl and soaks into the seams. Best thing is it's free!

A dousing under the wings after a good wash will keep rust at bay.

[philthehill]

Thining the old oil with paraffin (which acts as the carrier) is even better than straight old oil as it helps the penetration between the spot welds. My Morris has this done since new (1958) and there is no rust in the chassis legs front or back.

[irmscher]

Have you tried Dinitrol ?? brilliant stuff imho

[LobbyLudd]

Thining the old oil with paraffin (which acts as the carrier) is even better than straight old oil as it helps the penetration between the spot welds. My Morris has this done since new (1958) and there is no rust in the chassis legs front or back.

Now that's very interesting 'philthehill' and it sounds economical ! - have you found an effective rough % mix ratio of paraffin to oil please ?
. I assume it could then be applied say annually ? into box sections etc. (I'm thinking of a garden pressure sprayer?? - cleaning the sprayers seals and washers after probably?)
Have you been careful to keep this mix away from rubber hoses etc ?.
Methinks I might well be experimenting with this idea - thanks

[philthehill]

We used a compressed air parriffin gun filled with a mixture 60/40 approx oil/parriffin sprayed into the box sections. Rear/middle sections accessed through the open ends of the box section in the boot (either side of the spare wheel) and with the front sections through the holes in the top and the drain holes in the bottom of the front chassis legs and if carefull with carpets pulled back past the brake pedal. The blast of air and the parriffin as carrier would take the mixture to all corners of the chassis box sections. As a bonous of doing this I never experianced a siezed or worn clutch/brake pedal pivot. The spraying was done at least once a year. Used to spray along the seams in the engine bay and any seams/welds on the underside of the car. Worked best on cars that had been undersealed. It kept the underseal soft. Always took care to keep the mixture away from the rubber parts. We always let the excess mixture drain off before returning the car to the customer. A garden sprayer would be usefull but you may need a high parriffin content to be any good but worth a try. My Minor has the original front chassis legs and rear spring mounts which I believe is mainly down to continued spraying with the oil/parriffin mixture.

[LobbyLudd]

Very informative - thanks again phil for describing what seems to be your own particular 'time proven method'