chrome
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chrome
Ello, bought some new rear bumpers for pickup [traveller] only 9 months ago , noticed yesterday slight surface rust allready,not an eyeball pleaser,aneone recommend some decent gear to put on em ,or should i wipe em over once a week with something ,cheers muckers,steve
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I seem to recall that standard chrome care is Polish and Wax.
The bumper on the back of my car seems to have withstood the ravages of my non-cleaning policy fairly well so far with that. And t'other chrome seems to be at a static level of knackeredness....
The bumper on the back of my car seems to have withstood the ravages of my non-cleaning policy fairly well so far with that. And t'other chrome seems to be at a static level of knackeredness....
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
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Desires:
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The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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To clean it up, try using Autosol or Chrome Magic, both I think are available from Frosts or similar. Autosol, I'm 90% certain, you can get in Halfrauds. Some recommend wiping the chrome over with light machine oil, but I value my trousers too much for that... ;)
Happy Minoring!
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
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Hello SR,
it is a problem that you cannot judge the quality of chrome by looking at it. (Well I can't anyway) The rear bumper blades I fitted new when i restored my wife's Traveller started to show rust not long after, and require constant cleaning. In contrast one of my cars (1962 Jag) was parked outside for several years due to no garage space and the chrome was not affected.
I would happily have paid twice what I paid for new bumpers with high quality chrome than have to end up rechroming them in the near future. A thought for anyone doing a restoration, if the bumpers etc are sound, think about re-chroming rather than replacement, but look for a chromer that does the full copper\nickel\chrome sequence.
Alec
it is a problem that you cannot judge the quality of chrome by looking at it. (Well I can't anyway) The rear bumper blades I fitted new when i restored my wife's Traveller started to show rust not long after, and require constant cleaning. In contrast one of my cars (1962 Jag) was parked outside for several years due to no garage space and the chrome was not affected.
I would happily have paid twice what I paid for new bumpers with high quality chrome than have to end up rechroming them in the near future. A thought for anyone doing a restoration, if the bumpers etc are sound, think about re-chroming rather than replacement, but look for a chromer that does the full copper\nickel\chrome sequence.
Alec
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chrome
Unfortunately Chromium plate is porous so it is important that it
should be based on an underlying coating of nickel and,preferably,
a base metal of brass under that. (A pre war Austin seven chromed
radiator surround NEVER rusted for that reason) As Alec said it is
always worth paying extra for a well chromed item in the long run.
Because it is porous it is worth applying a good quality wax polish to chrome as it helps to fill up the 'holes'.
should be based on an underlying coating of nickel and,preferably,
a base metal of brass under that. (A pre war Austin seven chromed
radiator surround NEVER rusted for that reason) As Alec said it is
always worth paying extra for a well chromed item in the long run.
Because it is porous it is worth applying a good quality wax polish to chrome as it helps to fill up the 'holes'.
Willie
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Suppliers like Bull Motif sell the chrome in 2 grades, the cheaper stuff and the proper triple plated chrome, also you should not use chrome cleaner as most of it is abrasive and car polish is fine for keeping it shiny, and can even be left on unbuffed if your car spends winter time in the garage.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Moderator MMOC 44706
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Chrome cleaner is ok if you want to turn a very rusty/ heavily stained looking bumper into something that resembles metal, but as mentioned already it is abarasive so it actually damages the chrome - Therefore if your chrome is worth saving then use a high grade bodywork polish (the good ones contain chemicals to disolve the iron oxide away).
The polish then acts to make the surface non-porous but you'll need to keep up the treatment especially with our highly salted roads over winter.
The polish then acts to make the surface non-porous but you'll need to keep up the treatment especially with our highly salted roads over winter.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
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Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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A few years back the process of making chromed parts was hit by a punative set of environmental taxes because of the chemicals used. The results were the cheap stuff was just that; cheap. The quality stuff was made by fewer firms and much more expensive.
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
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Thats not good Steve have you tried asking them whats gone wrong as there is no way they should have been so short lived.ello kev ,these are bull motifs "best quality"
The biggest problem with the original saloon rear lights was not the chrome but the base unit which is porous which is why the ones from Birmingham are made by a gravity fed process to make the bases solid, unfortunatly thats why they are so dear.certainly is, my rear light look like wood worm has had a go!!!
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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chrome
As far as I am aware it is not possible to get chromed items which
are made of brass these days (it was the norm pre-war), so a top
quality item would be made of steel with a coating of copper,then
at least two coats of nickel then the chrome. Of course it is the thickness
of the various coatings which decides if it is a quality plating or not.
are made of brass these days (it was the norm pre-war), so a top
quality item would be made of steel with a coating of copper,then
at least two coats of nickel then the chrome. Of course it is the thickness
of the various coatings which decides if it is a quality plating or not.
Willie
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Well Bull Motif and Birmingham quote that they now how chrome made to original standards and not the cheaper stuff, however I would also think that companys like East Sussex would also sell the same quality but its best to check before buying, if its any help it should be triple plated.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Does general quality seem to be getting worse??????
I fitted a new set of stainless-steel kick-plates and sill finishers to the Pick-Up at the week-end.
The finishers were ok, but the kick-plates were distorted, obviously done when they were folded.
They still look good
but they are not the same quality as the set I bought about 5 years ago for the convertible (from the same specialist!)

I fitted a new set of stainless-steel kick-plates and sill finishers to the Pick-Up at the week-end.
The finishers were ok, but the kick-plates were distorted, obviously done when they were folded.
They still look good

1971 3.9 litre V8 Pick-Up - At least most of the bodywork is original!
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1966 V8 powered roadster - Now out of hibernation - not long til it's done.................
Hibernating - Shhhhhhhhhhhhh!
1966 V8 powered roadster - Now out of hibernation - not long til it's done.................