Worst Type of Problem.. intermittent

[mickeytwonames]

Help!
I have a '56 splittie with a Gold Seal Engine - I use the car everyday 99% of the time it runs fine and is hassle free motoring. Recently there is an intermittent problem that I originally thought was on the fuel delivery side but am now convinced it is an electrical issue. For example, yesterday I drove to Oxford (40 miles) with no problems. On the away back the engine started to 'judder' or misfire. and then die. It starts again and then repeats itself. I checked the ignition and was dubious about the spark so I swapped out the condenser. The car then ran us home. I went out a bit later and the problem occurred again. I've cleaned everything dizzy wise and checked all the leads. The coil is newish as are the plugs. The contact breaker is set right and is newish but of original manufacture. The problem happens when the car is EITHER cold -or hot. Does anyone have any ideas as it is stretching my gremlin hunting elastic to the limit.
Thanks in advance.
Mickeytwonames

[Trickydicky]

Hi,

I had a similer issue and like you changed the condensor as the symptoms were that of a failing one. In the end I traced it to a faulty rotor arm, which was tracking. I had a spark at the coil ht lead but not at the plugs.
Replaced it and no problems since.

Richard

[bmcecosse]

2nd vote for rotor arm - always carry a spare!

[beero]

I know you may be convinced it is electrical but next time it cuts out take the top off the carb float chamber and make sure there is plenty of fuel in there.

[kennatt]

had the same with mine,about 6 months ago ,stopped and as above,no fuel in bowl. Gave the points on the pump a clean,and fitted a new carb valve assembly. No further problems.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

My money would be on fuel pump points also.

[Trickydicky]

Hi,

I think you may find that it will be the rotor arm, the reason I say this is that you have to take it off to check the points gap and to replace the condensor. Replacing it after that reseats it, but the fault reappears.

It wouldnt hurt though to check the fuel pump points and give them a clean.

[mickeytwonames]

Many thanks to all concerned. What I THINK it was in the end - as the problem has gone away - was I twisted the LT lead (where it joins the dizzy) from running down by the body next to the plastic insulation to up to the dizzy cap - thus I assume stopping some electrical leakage. However, I now carry a spare rotor arm - have cleaned the pump points and checked the carb/float etc. - Rum the acfr 500 milers since without a splutter, flutter or mutter from me. Happy days