Running in 1098 engine
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- Minor Fan
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Running in 1098 engine
Hi Folks,
Having fitted the 1098 van engine a couple of weeks ago after rebuilding it, Im running it in and sorting out the little running probs as I go. Would be great to get some feedback on best ways to run in a rebuilt engine, as this is the first time Ive had the luxury!
Im trying to drive carefully but theres a lot of hills down here which have to be tackled when the engine isnt fully warm, so its a bit of a struggle, I dont want to over rev it and cause damage.
Thanks to everyone for the help and advise on the rebuilding, I dont think I could have tackled the job without it, it was good to have the backup online.
Cheers
Having fitted the 1098 van engine a couple of weeks ago after rebuilding it, Im running it in and sorting out the little running probs as I go. Would be great to get some feedback on best ways to run in a rebuilt engine, as this is the first time Ive had the luxury!
Im trying to drive carefully but theres a lot of hills down here which have to be tackled when the engine isnt fully warm, so its a bit of a struggle, I dont want to over rev it and cause damage.
Thanks to everyone for the help and advise on the rebuilding, I dont think I could have tackled the job without it, it was good to have the backup online.
Cheers
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
as regards to the hills (and all roads for that matter),just make sure your in the right gear to match engine and road speed,under revving also isn't good either,smoothness is the key and no boy/girl racer movements ,on longer runs try to vary your speed and not keep strictly to one speed.I'm sure you'll get loads more info .good luck
Cheers Alex
all thoughts are given in good faith but..." You pays your money and takes your choice"

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all thoughts are given in good faith but..." You pays your money and takes your choice"
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
Just don't thrash it! Hopefully you retorqued the head nuts after the first heat cycle - and reset the valve gaps. And do change the oil and filter after 500 miles. Hopefully you also have an authentic 'Running In - Please Pass' paper sticker in the rear window......



Re: Running in 1098 engine
As a rough guide, a maximum of 10 mph for each gear, and don't let the engine labour. Remember to re-torque the head after its first run up to temperature (that may start another discussion) and again at 500 miles. Keep an eye on the fluids, and change the oil and filter at 500 miles, after which you can go a bit faster; but as above, smooth and gentle is the way forward.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
It will give maximum speeds in each gear for running-in in the Owners' Manual. As a rule don't exceed 35 MPH until 200 miles have been covered, and only then gradually increase engine speeds to, say, 40 MPH.
Check for oil leaks etc which must rectified. Check engine oil level each day. You will feel the engine loosen up nicely after a time.
Check for oil leaks etc which must rectified. Check engine oil level each day. You will feel the engine loosen up nicely after a time.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
This subject is bound to generate conflicting views, but I would say that 35 mph is way too slow for running in a later car with higher gearing (though for an earlier 803, with much lower final drive it is sensible). 45 mph in top will be fine if it's a 948 or a 1098 car, just don't labour the engine, use full throttle, or drive constantly at the same speed. If you go too slowly, you run the risk of glazing the bores, which is not a good thing! As JJ said, you can gradually build up the amount of work and load you give the engine over the running-in period.
Re: Running in 1098 engine
Indeed - 35 is much too slow. It's debateable if 'runnning in' is necessary anyway - but it will be wise to not thrash the car for the first 500 miles.



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- Minor Legend
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
just drive normally dont thrash the engine,vary your speed and dont load up the engine .
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Running in 1098 engine
Indeed, seems all that data for the 803 is imprinted on my mind.
At any rate you have plenty of information above for a successful running-in period.
Like a new pair of walking boots you wouldn't go out on a 20-mile trek without breaking them in first.

At any rate you have plenty of information above for a successful running-in period.
Of course it's necessary. The engine is tight and working surfaces need to properly bed in before being subjected to hard work and extremes. You still have to run-in modern cars to a lesser extent.bmcecosse wrote: It's debateable if 'runnning in' is necessary anyway - but it will be wise to not thrash the car for the first 500 miles.
Like a new pair of walking boots you wouldn't go out on a 20-mile trek without breaking them in first.
Re: Running in 1098 engine
Not really - if built to the correct clearances - it's fine to run it 'normally' - but not to thrash it. Competition engines are assembled and RUN - and run bl**dy hard more or less straight away.....



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Re: Running in 1098 engine
Yes - and on racing engines the head is usually taken off and valves lapped in before each competition, not to mention all the other preparations. I very much doubt the average Morris owner is willing to do that. 

Re: Running in 1098 engine
And just how long do those competition engines last before the next rebuild? Certainly not the 150,000+ miles that an A-series will easily return if looked after properly.
Re: Running in 1098 engine
Hahahahaha - indeed - but they don't wear out because they are not 'run in' - they wear out by being thrashed!



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Re: Running in 1098 engine
Hence why the running in period is so important. 

Re: Running in 1098 engine
If you've got a new engine, why wouldn't you run it in, it's not as if it will damage it! But maybe if you like a gamble----- 

Re: Running in 1098 engine
Running in is one thing - creeping along at 35 mph is quite another!! It's all been explained right at the beginning...


