Engine removal

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DIGCOT65
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Engine removal

Post by DIGCOT65 »

I hope in the near future,after an operation, to look around for a Morris Minor to restore.I have read in various books,that the engine is removed without the gearbox.Is there a reason why they need to be removed seperately ,I would have thought that with the front of the car off ,then they would come out together .Len
taupe
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Re: Engine removal

Post by taupe »

Hi

The engine can be removed with or without the gearbox attached
bmcecosse
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Re: Engine removal

Post by bmcecosse »

Whichever you wish - but the two together are bl**dy heavy and will need lifting gear. Engine can be easily popped out without lifting gear - and then gearbox to follow if you need it out too......
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DIGCOT65
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Re: Engine removal

Post by DIGCOT65 »

Thanks for the info,I wondered if there was a reason why the books said remove gearbox from engine before removing engine.If you have lifting gear,then it will be easier I think to remove both in one operation .Thanks again for the info.Len
beero
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Re: Engine removal

Post by beero »

bmcecosse wrote: Engine can be easily popped out without lifting gear ......
I suppose after working with steam engines a little A series is lightweight to you Roy.
I took my engine out manually but only after stripping it of everything including the head and still nearly bust a bloodvessel!!

chesney
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Re: Engine removal

Post by chesney »

I took my 950 out with gearbox attached - managed to manhandle it out, but maybe have a spare front brake line just in case it gets pulled/squashed if that's what you're planning!
smithskids
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Re: Engine removal

Post by smithskids »

When I converted my MM back to standard I disconeccted the gearbox and all links and it came out dead easy. I then reached in and lifted out the alloy gearbox, piece of cake!!1n After a clean up and new linkages made up I tried to pick up the cast iron gearbox and had to give up. After a cup of tea I decided to jack up the front of the car high enough and push the heavy gearbox under the car and lower the car back down on top of it then managed to get the gearbox in position on the original crass member with new mounts and support it at the right height on a small jack. luckily I had used a dummy gearbox input shaft to line up the clutch and for once it went straight in, instead of trying to turn the engine with a spanner to get the splines to line up . Dinner time and a kip in the afternoon called for.Like bmeccosse old age catching up. Cheers Smithskids. :D :D
bmcecosse
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Re: Engine removal

Post by bmcecosse »

No great man-handling involved (I've had my share of back problems in the past...) - just careful use of timber blocks and a trolley jack!
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beero
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Re: Engine removal

Post by beero »

AH!!!!...... a trolley jack, doesn't that count as lifting gear????

smithskids
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Re: Engine removal

Post by smithskids »

Naaaah! adjustable support. :D :D :D
bmcecosse
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Re: Engine removal

Post by bmcecosse »

It pushes - not lifts..... :roll:
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Bazzalucas
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Re: Engine removal

Post by Bazzalucas »

I don't know what kind of overhead garage space you have, or how stout the beams are, but my standard lifting device is a hand winch we call a "Come-along" over here in the States. I lift out motor and 'box together then roll the car back out of the way and lower the whole kit-n-kaboodle onto the floor to begin work.
[img]http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm274/bazzalucas/Morris.jpg[/img]
DIGCOT65
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Re: Engine removal

Post by DIGCOT65 »

Thanks to everyone who replied,as I said I am waiting to go into hospital ,for an Aortic valve replacement.I have up to now,restored the big Rover P5Bs but realise I need to step down in size,so have set my mind on Morris Minors.I realise that like all old cars ,there is going to be tin worm on a retoration job.Is the centre cross member ( with jacking points) difficult to change.I have never owned a Morris Minor ,so the more I kow what to look for the better . :-? Len
bmcecosse
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Re: Engine removal

Post by bmcecosse »

The cross member is one of the biggest jobs - followd by f rontchassis legs. Both much easier with a roll-over jig. Don't worry about jacking points..they must NEVER be used anyway - in fact - best not to fit them when changing the crossmember, then there is no temptation....
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John.n
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Re: Engine removal

Post by John.n »

why do you say not to used the jacking points? are they not designed for that exact perpose or were they a massive design after-thought?
Regards,
John
chesney
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Re: Engine removal

Post by chesney »

They may have been 'ok' to use - when they were brand spanking new! They are quite a rust trap.
Besides, between a reliable trusty bottle/scissor jack or that horrid screw contraption leaving the car teetering on two wheels I know which one I'd choose..
bmcecosse
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Re: Engine removal

Post by bmcecosse »

Even if there was NO risk of the jacking point distorting the sill - it is an EXTREMELY shoogly arrangement - best not even contemplated. :roll:
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beero
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Re: Engine removal

Post by beero »

Shoogly................ Had to Google that one, and there isn't a more apt word!

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