Top trunnion replacement tips please...lower too
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Top trunnion replacement tips please...lower too
So there I was...reversing on full lock in a carpark - when the Lh wheel folded under the car.
Anway, seems to be no damage - and I have just aquired new top and lower trunions which I aim to fit this weekend.
Would appreciate any tips on fitting & 'what to watch out for' as I clearly don't know 'my trunions' - so to speak. For example, spanner sizes...
Thanks
Finn
Anway, seems to be no damage - and I have just aquired new top and lower trunions which I aim to fit this weekend.
Would appreciate any tips on fitting & 'what to watch out for' as I clearly don't know 'my trunions' - so to speak. For example, spanner sizes...
Thanks
Finn
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Thankfully the collapses tend to happen when turning sharply rather than at high speed. Have a look in the 'Useful Tips' section (about 10 down) for the post about spanner / nut sizes. I've only done a top trunnion but it was relatively simple once the damper lever arm was prised off the spline.
The club has a fairly comprehensive page on trunnion replacement (available to non-members as well!).
See: http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/technica ... nions.html
The club has a fairly comprehensive page on trunnion replacement (available to non-members as well!).

See: http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/technica ... nions.html
Chris
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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You are probably wasting a lot of time and effort by just doing the trunnions.
If the suspension has collapsed this is usually due to lack of essential maintenance (greasing every 3000 miles / 3 months). The threads on the suspension upright will surely be heavily worn and changing the trunnion is then just a temporary bodge.
The trunnion threads are meant to be an equal square shape, so if you change 1 part not both then if may feel firm after assembly but the load will be just on the tips of the thread corners, not on the flanks and the whole thing will wear away are a very high rate.
Unless the threads on the suspesion upright (kingpin) are very good and still nice and square, then you need to replace the complete upright and the trunions at the same time.
(Trust me - I've been there when I was younger and I learnt the hard way)
If the suspension has collapsed this is usually due to lack of essential maintenance (greasing every 3000 miles / 3 months). The threads on the suspension upright will surely be heavily worn and changing the trunnion is then just a temporary bodge.
The trunnion threads are meant to be an equal square shape, so if you change 1 part not both then if may feel firm after assembly but the load will be just on the tips of the thread corners, not on the flanks and the whole thing will wear away are a very high rate.
Unless the threads on the suspesion upright (kingpin) are very good and still nice and square, then you need to replace the complete upright and the trunions at the same time.
(Trust me - I've been there when I was younger and I learnt the hard way)
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
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Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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The best tip I can give is (assuming you have the time) spray all the nuts with Plus Gas and leave it for a few hours. repeat the process and then you can make a start on dissassembly. When the leg has become detatched it can be a heck of a job getting the required leverage on the nuts to release them even when they are clean.
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
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trunnions
I must agree with RAYO, under no circumstances change only the
trunnions, change everything! It will involve complete disassembly
of the front suspension so you MUST have a workshop manual to hand.
Take great care when you release the power of the torsion bar sus-
pension. As mentioned you will have an awful job trying to remove
the steering levers unless you have a large vice,a large hammer, and
probably a gas torch as well!! Far easier to buy the assemblies from
Bull Motif which include the arms already fitted.
trunnions, change everything! It will involve complete disassembly
of the front suspension so you MUST have a workshop manual to hand.
Take great care when you release the power of the torsion bar sus-
pension. As mentioned you will have an awful job trying to remove
the steering levers unless you have a large vice,a large hammer, and
probably a gas torch as well!! Far easier to buy the assemblies from
Bull Motif which include the arms already fitted.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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- Minor Legend
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steering arms
That's a surprise CAM as they were regularly advertising that they
supplied the swivels with the steering arms already fitted! Either
they have stopped doing so or they meant that they do not sell
them separately??
supplied the swivels with the steering arms already fitted! Either
they have stopped doing so or they meant that they do not sell
them separately??
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]