First signs of life

[IslipMinor]

The diagram shows the correct order of spark plug leads in the distributor cap.

How have you set the timing?

[stag36587]

I have checked timing by putting probe into no 1 cylinder and turning engine on the handle until at top of stroke at which point rotor arm shows as photo which I am assuming is correct?

All spark plugs have healthy sparks and smell of petrol so I am assuming that this is still a timing issue?

I have also noticed that vacuum advance line is broken - would that have any effect on timing for starting?[frame][/frame]

[katy]

No.
From the looks of the last pic, methinks that you're going to have to turn your distributor one way or the other (probably anti-clockwise) to get the timing into the ballpark so it will start.
I can't see the broken vacuum line in the pic, is it steel or rubber?
Wouldn't hurt to fix it up first.

[stag36587]

No.
From the looks of the last pic, methinks that you're going to have to turn your distributor one way or the other (probably anti-clockwise) to get the timing into the ballpark so it will start.
I can't see the broken vacuum line in the pic, is it steel or rubber?
Wouldn't hurt to fix it up first.

Thanks will give that a go - vacuum line is steel and broken at the rocker cover. I'll try to repair it as £22 for a new one!

[drivewasher]

To determin where to start the firing order from in an anticlockwise direction. ( the diagram wont be correct as in the exact position of the numbered cylinders, although it is in the corect sequence 1342 anticlockwise)
You need to make shure the rotor arm points to the No1 cylinder HT lead when No1 cyl is at aprox top dead centre on IT'S firing/compression stroke and NOT the exhaust stroke.
Remove the rocker cover and turn engine with starter handle so as No1 cylinder is coming up to the top (No1 is front cylinder), when it's coming up on it's compression stroke BOTH front valves (No1 Cyl) will close IE both rocker arms will have clearance from valve stems IE will be loose. If one is tight then it's NOT the compression stroke.
When you got No1 cylinder at top dead centre on it's compression stroke the rotor arm should point to the No1 HT lead in the distributer cap. If as I suspect if it points to No4 HT lead in the distributer cap the dissy is 180 degrees out and engine is firing on the exhaust stroke giving you backfires

[kennatt]

if your dizzy is fixed in the normal position,and it looks to be then the rotor is pointing at no 4 not no one,allthough it still may be right if no 4 is on Compression/firing. IN this position the timing marks on the crank will also show top dead centre but on no 4. The correct way to check is to remove the rocker cover and see what the valves are doing but,to test simply take the leads off the cap and refit no four to corespond with the position of the rotor,then go round anticlockwize fitting no 2 then one then three into the dizzy cap.then see if it fire up.

[stag36587]

Thanks guys. see photo.

In meantime, my new fuel pump has given up and is no longer pumping fuel to the carb so cant help thinking this is most likely explanation for continuing trouble. [frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Your timing method has only 50% chance of success...... Swap the leads round two places and try again. How can a NEW pump have given up???

[stag36587]

[quoteHow can a NEW pump have given up???
To be fair it may just not be sucking from the tank again. I will probably need another pump to compare it with.

In other news, I chanced upon the cause of the water leak - coming from the heater control valve and taking a cross country route to where I saw it. I'm glad it's nothing more serious.

[bmcecosse]

A tiny glimmer of success then..... better luck next year!

[stag36587]

Thanks - hope so because it's driving me nuts.

[MarkyB]

Is the pump ticking without pumping?
It's designed to stop pumping when the carb is full.

[stag36587]

Wife is watching Gary Barlow so a good time for me to be on here.

I have a query on engine bay wiring. I have two wires each with extra black sheaths which I believe are for oil pressure switch and oil filter. According to all wiring diagrams I have seen, they are both green/ yellow but on my car, one is green/yellow, the other is green/brown. Question is - which is which? At the moment I have the green/brown wired to the oil pressure switch.

Thanks

[IslipMinor]

The green/brown normally goes from the fuel gauge to the fuel tank sender. Does your fuel gauge work properly? If it shows empty with just the ignition turned on and then full when the engine is started (with nothing in between empty and full), then would be correct for connecting the green/brown to the oil pressure switch!!

[stag36587]

Encouraging sign. Cranked engine with solenoid switch for several seconds and the orange warning light went out and then came on again (I guess) as oil pressure dropped. (green/brown wire from oil pressure switch to warning light) . I will attempt to start the car tomorrow.....

[bmcecosse]

Good sign! I think that will be a yellow/green wire - just slightly grubby. Wipe it with a clean solvent cloth.

[stag36587]

Even after cleaning this particular wire is still green with a brown tracer from warning light through to the switch. Maybe it was a spare piece lying about in the factory, maybe I have a unique Morris Minor - the only one with a oil pressure wire this colour

[bmcecosse]

Yeah - that will be it then....unique wiring harness....