Engine Test
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- Minor Friendly
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Engine Test
I have a 948cc engine that I have rebuilt to a high standard and original spec. I plan to sell the engine at somepoint, but first I wanted to run it. I don't have a moggy to put it in, so plan to run it as it is (Since it's my first engine rebuild, I thought it would be nice to get it running).
Does anyone have any experience with running an engine outside a car? I have a number of questions such as:
-Do I need a radiator - does it need to be a moggy or can it just be a cheap radiator or even just a tub of water piped up?
- Should I get a starter motor or hand crank? - I notice starter motors are quite expensive...
- How should I wire it up? I assume negative earth on engine then touch positive on battery to start. How do I stop it running safely?
Any advice on running an engine outside of a car would be much appreciated!
Does anyone have any experience with running an engine outside a car? I have a number of questions such as:
-Do I need a radiator - does it need to be a moggy or can it just be a cheap radiator or even just a tub of water piped up?
- Should I get a starter motor or hand crank? - I notice starter motors are quite expensive...
- How should I wire it up? I assume negative earth on engine then touch positive on battery to start. How do I stop it running safely?
Any advice on running an engine outside of a car would be much appreciated!
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Engine Test
As MarkyB said in an earlier thread, you can run it for a brief period just sitting on it's sump.
But for serious running it would be best to make a proper stand for it, even a solid wood one will work.
Cooling it depends on how long you want to run it.
For a very short time you can run it w/out any cooling.
A radiator is best for cooling, with some sort of fan, a "tub of water" will work for a while, but with continuous running will overheat unless it is very large.
Just about any automotive radiator will work.
You can run it w/out the exhaust connected, but it will be quite noisy and you won't be able to hear how the mechanicals of the engine sound, so best to connect an exhaust sytem up.
Hand cranking should work for starting.
Put an on-off switch in the wiring to the ignition coil so you can turn it on-off as needed.
Don't forget the water pump and a belt to drive it, if no generator or alternator you'll need an idler pulley.
HTH, katy
But for serious running it would be best to make a proper stand for it, even a solid wood one will work.
Cooling it depends on how long you want to run it.
For a very short time you can run it w/out any cooling.
A radiator is best for cooling, with some sort of fan, a "tub of water" will work for a while, but with continuous running will overheat unless it is very large.
Just about any automotive radiator will work.
You can run it w/out the exhaust connected, but it will be quite noisy and you won't be able to hear how the mechanicals of the engine sound, so best to connect an exhaust sytem up.
Hand cranking should work for starting.
Put an on-off switch in the wiring to the ignition coil so you can turn it on-off as needed.
Don't forget the water pump and a belt to drive it, if no generator or alternator you'll need an idler pulley.
HTH, katy
Talk slow, think fast!
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Re: Engine Test
If it's not on a rig, best not start it on the handle (if sat on its sump).
Not only will the throw be limited, but it could topple too.
Don't forget petrol supply! I wouldn't bother with a pump, either top up the float chamber by hand or rig up some sort of gravity feed with a funnel at the top.
Not only will the throw be limited, but it could topple too.
Don't forget petrol supply! I wouldn't bother with a pump, either top up the float chamber by hand or rig up some sort of gravity feed with a funnel at the top.
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Re: Engine Test
Thanks Katy. Where does the idler pulley fit? II assume it's to tension the fan belt of I chose not to have a dynamo/alternator?
Also would disconnecting the battery from the ignition coil not do the same as having a switch in the line?
Also would disconnecting the battery from the ignition coil not do the same as having a switch in the line?
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Re: Engine Test
Thanks chesney sounds like a good idea with the fuel. Saves me dishing out on a fuel pump, will spend the money on a starter instead
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Re: Engine Test
Hi, its quite easy to make a wooden test stand with a couple of old engine mounts to bolt the engine to, a lot safer as well. Best to put the starter and dynamo on with fan belt plus silencer. I had one for years but eventually it got adapted for other jobs and ended up as firewood. just put a hose connection on and an outlet to the drain and regulate the temp. with the tap.
Cheers and good luck.
Cheers and good luck.
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Re: Engine Test
Where are you located? I'm sure someone will let you borrow a starter for just one test. No point in splashing out on one for one test.
If not, put a post on the wanted section, a fiver should get a useable one.
If it's on a rig, just use a handle for one job
If not, put a post on the wanted section, a fiver should get a useable one.
If it's on a rig, just use a handle for one job

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Re: Engine Test
Based in Nottingham. Happy to spend up to 15/20 quid if anyone has got one that works. Not sure about dishing out on a alternator, I think I might just run a bungee cord from the crank pulley to the water pump since it's just temporary.
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Re: Engine Test
Ah, I had one you could borrow but Nottingham is a bit of a stretch for me 

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Re: Engine Test
Shame, cheers anyway.
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Re: Engine Test
Definitely use a starter motor, borrow one if you can but they are common to loads of different cars of the era and later.
Breakers yard would be the ideal source and you could get the bolts and wire for it too.
Don't forget to arrange a throttle return spring though or you will rev the nuts off it!
Breakers yard would be the ideal source and you could get the bolts and wire for it too.
Don't forget to arrange a throttle return spring though or you will rev the nuts off it!
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: Engine Test
There is no way you will start it on a handle....nowhere to support the handle shaft is one problem - so you DO need a starter. No point having a dynamo/alternator. Just run the thing. It's going to be SO noisy it will only be for a few seconds unless you rig an exhaust system - in which case - as above - hose and drain. To get any sense from this test - you need an oil pressure gauge connected - and don't try to start it till you have 50 psi on the gauge from cranking it with the starter.
Exactly what was done to the engine?
Exactly what was done to the engine?
Last edited by bmcecosse on Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.



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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Engine Test
Bmc - got the oil pressure gauge so will take your advice on that. Will have a hunt this weekend for starter motor.
With regards to 'high standard and original spec' I just meant that it's been restored fully and meticulously cleaned down to component level including cylinder bore honing, new rings steam clean block recondittioned head. etc. As opposed to being a chuck in some new rings new head gasket and run it type job. Original spec I was referring to the fact that there's no modifications, exactly as a 948cc bmc engine came off the line.
With regards to 'high standard and original spec' I just meant that it's been restored fully and meticulously cleaned down to component level including cylinder bore honing, new rings steam clean block recondittioned head. etc. As opposed to being a chuck in some new rings new head gasket and run it type job. Original spec I was referring to the fact that there's no modifications, exactly as a 948cc bmc engine came off the line.
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Re: Engine Test
Definately do not use an alternator, you will b%%%%er it if the electrics are not correctly wired. A dynamo can be left disconnected
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