Strong petrol smell in cabin

[MoggyMatt]

I have a 1964 "transitional" 1098 Minor with a fresh air heater that could be either a 948 or 1098 type.

The hose that runs from the front of the car (next to the radiator) to the bulkhead is torn and shredded to pieces at the radiator end, thus allowing fumes from the engine compartment into the cabin. Is this hose available new as a spare part? I don't know exactly what it is called so I am struggling to find it on spare part lists.

Is there anything else I should be checking out as a likely cause of petrol smell in the cabin? I've had a good look at the tank itself, and though it looks very grubby and like something that has been there for 50 years, it has no obvious holes or damage.

On a short (20 minute) drive with heater turned off, its not really noticeable, but 30 to 40 minutes in with heater fan turned on its really strong, even with windows open.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

If you mean the fresh air trunking of the large-bore tumble dryer type, this can't be your problem as there is no possibility of fumes entering from that far forward of the engine.

I would check all the petrol pipes and replace any that are in the slightest way suspect, especially the transparent type. Also check the exhaust manifold for leaks and run a finger round the bottom of the carb and float-bowl.

[chrisryder]

You shouldn't have petrol fumes coming in through that fresh air intake, unless there's a petrol leak under the bonnet. In which case, you'd smell it with heater on or not.

You will get oil fumes in the engine bay, so it would be safest to replace that intake hose/tube asap anyway. I believe it'll likely be called 'heater duct' or 'heater trunking' or 'elephants trunk' to some people

While running, or just after, check around the fuel pump and carb for any signs of petrol. The rubber hose from pump to carb could be leaking, or the paper gasket under the float chamber lid could be leaking.

Other than that, at the rear, there's a gasket under the fuel gauge sender. This could benefit from replacement.

[andy.pointeer]

The picture attached is from Moss (http://www.moss-europe.co.uk) and I think you mean hose no 97 (24A1975, 24A1977 or ACA8217) you need to call them to check stock,

Also availble via ESM ( http://morrisminorspares.co.uk ) as part number HTR111 but also out of stock

search for part number on above sites to view

[frame][/frame]

[MoggyMatt]

It is the thick "elephant's trunk" heater duct hose or pipe that is split and torn, and will be replacing it as this is something I can do myself. As soon as I can find one. I guess from what people are saying, the petrol smell in the interior is being caused by a fuel system problem.

When I test drove the car, which was 10 minutes through a village and I mainly concentrating on making sure the gearbox didn't jump out of gear, I never noticed the petrol smell. When I collected the car, I drove 10 to 15 minutes to a petrol station and it was fine. Then I filled it to the top with fuel for the 80 mile journey home, and set off with the heater fan turned on for the first time. About 20 minutes in, the cabin filled with a very strong smell of petrol. Probably the reason the car was for sale as bodywork and underside structure are in good condition. The car got me home, but with both windows open on a day when it was 4 degrees and raining was not the most pleasant journey I've ever had. It was still smelly enough to give me a headache even with the windows open.

After noticing the state of the heater duct, I tried driving the car around today with the heater turned off for an hour, and didn't notice the smell coming in again, though there was a lingering smell of petrol before I started.

I'm tempted to replace the whole fuel system with reconditioned tank (if I can get one) and new pipes ect. I don't feel comfortable using the car as it is.

[bmcecosse]

The top of the petrol tank can become porous - check it urgently......Is it damp?

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Car will be fine for use as long as it's not spewing everywhere. Check for leaks - 5 min. job.

I once drove 200 motorway miles with a leaky tank pouring it out and still got 35 mpg.

[MoggyMatt]

The top of the petrol tank can become porous - check it urgently......Is it damp?

It is a bit damp around the sender.

[IaininTenbury]

That sounds the most likely culprit. I read your account of the journey and the key point I thought was 'filled the tank up to the top'. I'd guess sender unit gasket as being the main culprit, if not a leak from the filler hose or then as bmc says a porous top to the tank, which is more common ont he commercials as the top of the tanks are exposed underneath the floor rather than snug and dry inside the boot.

[bmcecosse]

If it's leaking there - just needs the slightest spark to send it up.......it WILL NOT 'be ok' . Meantime - wrap the leaky elephant trunk with duct tape till you get a new one.......you DO NOT want to be breathing carcinogenic oily fumes........

[Trickydicky]

As others have said check the gasket of the sender unit, it is most likley to have perished. I would also start at the filler neck and check the rubber connecting pipe has not got any holes in it or looks cracked and dried up.
If that does not cure it then check the fuel tank for any holes and also check the fuel line from the tank up to the pump and right up to the carb for any faults.

Does the car use a lot of petrol? check underneath the tank after it has been stood, that could indicate a leaking petrol tank.

[ASL642]

Agree with ^^^^^ the rubber filler pipe seems to go porous over time. If as you state, you filled the car up to the top this would mean petrol was in this pipe. Change it for a new one and check the jubilee clips that hold it on are really tight.

[Ratbag]

The rubber filler pipe can LOOK ok, but still be porous, resulting in a smelly interior after filling up. I know!

[lambrettalad]

I've not had this problem in a minor but my mini had the same problem and I traced it to the joint where the filler pipe is welded to the tank ,it had a series of pin holes and the smell was always worse after a visit to the petrol station.

[trevor groves]

Hi
My 63 Traveller does the same,mostly noted when you go in the Garage to the car.
I have not found a leak so far,but will check the tank float gasket,pump carb and pipes seem fine.
I am not filling the tank right up now,in case the gasket is at fault
regards
Trevor

[MoggyMatt]

Belt and braces I think. I'll try replacing the sender gasket (is this an easy home fix for someone with no mechanical ability?) and the pipe going into the tank from the filler cap at the same time. I've driven about 100 miles and still have 3/4 showing on fuel guage so I don't think I'm losing any or using more than normal, it seems to be as parsimonious with fuel as a Minor should be

[ASL642]

You won't loose any petrol through a porous petrol pipe - only the smell (which will make you "think" you're loosing it.)

[mogbob]

Matt if you have the relevant tools to undo the fixings, then ...yes it is an easy at home fix.Order/ assemble parts as required.

Safety
Disconnect the battery first, before you do anything else...petrol fumes and a spark equals a whole lot of real trouble !!

Remove the boot floor, so that you can see what you are doing,Disconnect the wire to the sender in the boot.Carefully undo the fixings around the sender.Try and get all the gunge/ dirt away from the area ( scraping with an old chisel very carefully...
no sparks again !! ).
Don't let the dirt fall into the tank opening, otherwise you will have future blockages in the fuel line.Hold a cloth in the hole with one hand and scrape with the other.When the worst is removed, an old cloth moistened with Meths, wiped around the rim will clean everthing up.Fit new gasket and sender, tighten down loosely, until all screws are in, then fully tighten.Replace wire, give the terminal a clean up, if necessary.

Filler tube connector, just undo the jubilee clips.The rubber may be " bonded " by forty odd years of metal / rubber / petrol
contact, so you may need a bit of brute strength to twist it free.If the rubber grommet, where the pipe goes through the bodywork is suspect, now would be a good time to replace it.
Replace everything and the re-connect the battery.Job done.
Bob

[MarkyB]

Some penetrating oil on the threads of the floor holding screws will help, the sooner the better.
Use Plusgas or similar, 3 in 1 oil is good too.

Clean the screw heads and find a screwdriver that is a very good fit, if you have one of those with different tips then tapping the tip into the head will help to free them up.