1950 Saloon project

[youngcamper]

Hi All,

After speeking to a couple of chaps at the national about there Lowlights ( a Red convertible and a Thames blue saloon) I decided to take the plunge...

I've just got back from picking up my latest project, a 1950 series MM low light in Romain green, it's a little shabby but doesn't seem to need to much to put her back on the road ( only some welding, brakes and reassemble the engine ) It seems to be very original apart from loosing its original bumpers and high cut wings (hopefully I'll be able to replace them) .Someones also replaced the wheel bolts with some studs and nuts. The plan at the moment is to get her MoT'd and do a rolling resto.

Anyway I'm only 17 so be gentle...

The journey home:


Her first time undercover for 3 years:


Cheers,

Will

[chesney]

What a brilliant picture that first one is! Bringing mine home on the discovery didn't have the same effect
All the best with the resto.

[plastic_orange]

Well done - enjoy.

Pete

[chrisryder]

Very nice! Another one for the collection! Paint looks in pretty good condition too.

[irmscher]

Looks realy good what month was it made in 1950

[LouiseM]

It was built in June '50 - more photos & details here: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=45034

Looks like a pretty sound basis for a good project

[irmscher]

Thanks for that link

[youngcamper]

Yep thats the one, she was built in june 1950, and seems to have only done about 40,000 miles from new, I'm hoping to be able to keep her original but smarten her up ready for next years national .

[Fingolfin]

Fantastic! I'll be following your project with great relish. Good luck!

[moggylowlight]

I am glad our conversation at the National resulted in you purchasing this MM a proper Nuffield Motor.
May I suggest always study the MM workshop manual before attempting any work ... Do not rush into making a temporary fix take your time get it right first time. The sidevalve is a tough silent engine and will cruise at 50mph all day without stress at 40mpg. You will find on the floor a plate next to the gear stick with a thumb screw remove the plate and you will see a dipstick for the gearbox, remove the back seat and you will also see a plate for the axle. beware the gearbox is cast iron smooth running but very heavy, adjusting the tappets you will need to get three correct Morris spanners the correct length and a Morris valve compresser, the seats look to be intact just need re-stitching and cleaning up....it's a learning curve we have all gone through.
I am sure with your enthusiasm you will be in the line up of MM's next year..

[youngcamper]

Not to worry moggylowlight, I already have the workshop manual ready for some bed side reading .

I won't be rushing her back onto the road, I'll be putting the engine back together as well as fully overhauling the brakes. She won't be restored, more like refurbished. The paint will be touched up, interior cleaned up and re-stitched and maybe treated to a set of rear wings. She'll be no show winner but will stand out amongst the line of imaculate lowlights at the national

Cheers,

Will

[moggylowlight]

On your travels look for these special tools at autujumbles, nothing else will do.
When removing valves lookout for the spring collar which was a mod to make sure the spring seats correctly in the block. [frame][/frame]

[youngcamper]

Thanks moggylowight,

Dad had a lowlight about 25 years ago, I'm hoping theres still some of those tools lurking in the shed...

Any idea when they introduced the Block spring collar ? my car doesn't have a oil filter so may not have them either

Cheers,

Will

[moggylowlight]

Page A29 section A.32 of the MM workshop manual issue 2 11/1952 fig A.38 the introduction of part No. 168339 valve spring collar. When you remove the valve spring...the collar if it has one will drop down at the back of the valve and if not detected on reassemble You have a U.S.H.M.2 early engine without external oil filter cartridge, it will have no casting in the area to take one, some engines have this casting to take this mod up to the start of the U.S.H.M.3 engine all then having the external cartridge type.
Means taking the sump off cleaning the wire mesh on the pump more frequently on oil change...new gaskets etc..hoping no leaks need pics of your engine to confirm..look for a round disc under the dynamo area which will have Morris Motors and the type of engine if you can

[youngcamper]

Ahh I see the part you mean , I'll have a look and see if mine has them ( I don't think it does) The engine number is 52540 I'll have to check what USHM it is.

Any idea how long these engines last ? mines done 43000 miles, shall I consider fitting new rings ?

Cheers,

Will

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

Great project!! I have a May 1950 saloon so will be virtually the same. You may find if it has wheel nuts that someone has put on later brakes, this is a much cheaper option than the original type of wheels cylinders that were very hard to find.

Keep adding lots of pictures

[moggylowlight]

I see in the previous pictures the cylinder head is off....ask yourself why? Could this be due to a blown head gasket or a valve burnt out or broken rings only close inspection will reveal the reason if you can turn the engine over on the starting handle inspect the bores at the top for a lip or vertical scoring, no external oil cartridge or water pump it's a USHM2 only a few of these early engines turn up at shows if you checked the MM's at this years National. How long do they last 1935 in Morris 8 then used as battery generators in tanks in WW2 then Morris E finally MM then sixty years later still going it's a tough engine see Morris register site. You need to take new pictures of the engine specialy the disc on the block under the dynamo which will confirm engine type.

[youngcamper]

The bores seem in pretty good condition, with no scoring etc. the engine is still on its standard pistons suggesting it hasn't been rebuilt, the engine turns over fine by hand. The previous owner had it running and apparently it was a bit smokey so they took it apart. one of the head studs is broken off at the base so that'll be nice and hard to replace. It comes with the old headgasket, which looks in good condition...

It has been laid up for 17 years so couldn't the smokeyness be down to that ? my plan was to get it running the see what it looks like.

She does still have the original brakes, but in her folder of history it shows that she had the wheel bolts replaced with studs as she was failing MoTs on loose wheels...

[mike.perry]

Your engine is type USHM2, USHM3 started at 77001. As you have no filter fit a magnet to the sump plug to collect the swarf. I have some brass sump/gearbox drain plugs

[colin addison]

Youngcamper
Hi, congrats on the sidevalve.
I am currently rebuilding a sidevalve engine. I had one stud break with the machinist. So I have arranged to have some sets of all x13 studs made. 2 of these sets will go to ESM and one set to replace all mine which were very rusty. ESM tell me they will be happy to sell them individually. So if you can get the remains of the broken stud out then these new sets will be with ESM within the next 2-3 weeks.
The place that did my machining are "experts" at getting broken studs out of all metals, they specialise in ally engines. They got the broken bit out of mine ok. If you need assistance with this please contact me and I will pass on their name. They are in the Tunbridge Wells area in Kent.
all the best
Colin