Any good diagrams of clutch linkage?

[tysonn]

LOL!We moved into a bungalow a few years ago because I have emphysema and couldnt run DOWN one stair!Back to the plot what makes me question the layout is that looking at the linkage at rest so to speak the lever on the shaft thats moved by the pedal is bent,i.e its straight for a bit then has a 45% fold then straight again.The 2 linkage plates dont seat squarely at the end of the arm,its difficult to describe but they ride over the angled folded bit if you see what I mean.Sure it shouldnt be like this.

[tysonn]

Just spoke to Chris at TomRoy and he says he has seen in the past a metal bar fitted to the pedal to extend its travel and give more leverage.This was made from thickish flat bar with sides welded on to brace it against the pedal and fixed to the pedal with a bolt through the existing dowel hole so no welding to the actual pedal?It does seem as if I have the diaphragm type clutch though.I suppose the guaranteed way of doing it properly and ending up with the correct feel to the clutch operation would be to fit a 1098 clutch?

[MarkyB]

Is the bearing (17) fitted? I seem to recall it's made of some sort of wood.

What is the engine end of the spring connected to? I think there is a hole in the back plate for it which allows a straight pull on the spring.

[tysonn]

There is a hole in the backplate(I know because I drilled it yesterday)where there wasnt one before as its from the midget(dont know what arrangement they have).From pics of other cars its maybe slightly in the wrong place and I can drill another but its not the root of the problem.

[bmcecosse]

And how is the pedal with the spring removed? Could be you have a very strong spring there........ I don't fancy the mods to the pedal - at all........

[tysonn]

Spring is off.Its around 4" long contracted.Made no difference to the difficulty moving the clutch.As I said its the proper spring that comes with the kit.Was thinking of trying to remove the pedal assembly as theres not enough room to remove the dowel pin towards the chassis with the pedal on the shaft but for the time being I'll cut the pin off it seems too long anyway.Have some flat bar same width as the arm.I'm going to cut some off and weld a narrow piece of bar to each side that will brace against the arm and bolt it through the existing dowel hole with a new hole for the dowel.I'll make it once fitted to reach as low as the bottom of the chassis leg.

[bmcecosse]

Seriously - if leg power is a problem, you could go hydraulic clutch operation and fit a servo to it!

[tysonn]

LOL thanks for the concern Roy.The legs fine thanks.I can send you a picture if you like.I have never had a problem with clutches and have 2 more old cars that certainly have less of the light refined clutch action we're used to on modern cars.Its a definite problem that has to be fixed otherwise its undriveable(by anybody).I'll get there eventually.
Mick

[bmcecosse]

Just keep the pictures of your legs to yourself - thanks......... R

[kennatt]

honestly just go with extending the arm nearest the chassis.I did this on mine since my daughter once had to use tha car and she has a leak left ankle,and struggled to hold the pedal down,I welded a short bar about 2"onto the lever and drilled a hole for the rod. Unbelievable difference,in fact when I use it now I find that its lighter,than my old mgb used to be.and no need for messing with the pedal theres enough adjustment to cater for it.

[kennatt]

[quote ]Unfortunately North Yorks[quote) Whats wrong with it,better than the home counties or the south west,Moors,coast,quiet roads,cheaper beer and housing , the wolds,friendly people,whitby fish and chips,and more importantly within very easy reach of a slightly better area called the north,... northumberland national park and coast line,the borders,and highlands of scotland,without having to flog your minor up the M1.Guess where I was born and bred no prize though ,too easy

[tysonn]

LOL!I agree totally nowhere better.I said "unfortunately" in response to a member who I think was prepared to call round to help but turned oout to be from "darn sarf".
Mick

[tysonn]

If the extending of the arm on the shaft doesnt have the desired effect,i.e clutch operation is still a pain what would the panel advise between changing the clutch assembly for a standard 1098 type or the operating assembly for a hydraulic?Clutch would be cheaper but means I have to disassemble, hydraulic more expensive but no need to remove the box?

[kennatt]

one thing to look at before doing anything,just in case the pressure plate has stiffened up,get someone to press the clutch while you watch the bottom pully,if it moves out EXCESSIVELY,it will move a little,you may need to change it before it causes damage to the crank webs,since the plate pushes too hard on the crank rather than clearing the friction plate,was a common fault on spitfires,not heard of it on standard minors but yours isn't standard. North Yorks, thought thats what you realy meant ,just though I'd have a bit of a dig at those poor people,south of watford gap,thats where the north starts dosn't it

[tysonn]

Thanks for the tip.Gonna have a good go with it tomorrow hopefully with a successful result.

[tysonn]

Well no further on!Removed the pedal assembly and fit an extension to the arm next to the pedal(maybe 30mm lower than the existing hole).Absolutely no difference.The problem must be with the clutch itself.I wonder if the last owner has put the plate in the wrong way round?Anyway started removing the box yesterday so all will shortly be revealed.

[IslipMinor]

Did you extend the lever on the pedal shaft or the cross-shaft? Extending the pedal shaft lever will make it worse. It needs to be the lever on the cross-shaft nearest to the chassis leg - it is connected to the pedal shaft with the 2 links, one each side of the lever arms.

The 1275 clutch is a different size to the 1098 (6.5" vs 7.25"), also the 1275 flywheel fixes to the crankshaft with 6 bolts against 4 for the 948/1098. The standard 1275 clutch should not be hard to use, with or without changing the lever ratios.

The lever is arrowed in red below:

[frame][/frame]

[tysonn]

I found the info on the internet that mentioned lengthening the arm you highlighted.However when I spoke to Chris Brandsby he said he had seen it done to the arm on the pedal shaft so thats what I did.To be honest and I am no expert at physics but I cant see a lot of difference to the amount of extra leverage from either position but apologies if I'm being thick.Anyway got the box off.It is 6.5" as I had been told by the last owner and flywheel has 6 bolts.Clutch is new,never been used.It slides superbly no hint of snagging.Friction disc was on the right way round.The last owner bought the engine and box from an MG enthusiast and was assured engine was rebuilt and box worked great,I have got the engine running and thats certainly a good 'un.Will a 1098 clutch fit and replace this MG one?Chris did say that he would simply fit a standard 1098 clutch to ensure ease of operation and less messing about with non standard parts if anything needs replacing in the future.I got my mate round(hes a weight lifter to try and press the pedal before I started dismantling and he couldnt budge it either.I removed all the necessary parts to just leave sliding the box off to him and it slid straight off.Just about out of ideas now.[frame][/frame]

[tysonn]

[frame][/frame]

[tysonn]

Heres something.Just Googled the part numbers.The pressure plate QY13001 is Quinton Hazell,disc is Valeo F490.Don't suppose this could be it?