how irritating.....

[Dominic]

Axle is back in place, hubs rebuilt with new bearings and oil seals...
Came to fit the brake cylinders.... didn't check to see if they had to be fitted prior to the hubs going in. Of course the hubs need to be removed first.... GRRRRRR
All fitted up now anyway... and at least I can now remove and refit rear hubs with my eyes shut!

[simmitc]

What car is that? There is no reason to remove hubs to fit brake cylinders on any car on which I have worked.

[Dominic]

standard 1098cc - blowed if the cylinders would go in - a doddle without the hubs!

[simmitc]

For next time, just align the hubs so that there is maximum clearance, avoiding the thicker bits. also, genuine cylinders fit much better than pattern parts that sometimes need a bit if filing. Agreed that it's much easier without the hubs, but still simple with them.

[bmcecosse]

Agree - no need to touch the hubs when removing/fitting rear brake cylinders.......

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

Sometimes if using the pattern cylinders on the back, thaey are a tight fit and need a bit of assistance from a hammer to go in

[Dominic]

These are genuine Lockheeds - just seemed no way they'd fit with hubs in place, over 1/4" extra clearance was required with hub turned to give most room. Maybe I should have just used a large hammer to persuade them into place!

[kennatt]

yes in the trade its called a calibrating tap with a 5 lb mechanics assistant

[chickenjohn]

They do go on without removing the hub, just requires a little gentle persuasion. A soft faced hammer does the trick here.

[Dominic]

ahh well... next time I'll be a bit more brutal!

[chickenjohn]

and a bit of wiggling and some copper grease on the sliding surface of the cylinder!

[drivewasher]

Jer-Jer-Jiggling it a bit works!

[Dominic]

and some copper grease on the sliding surface of the cylinder!

Indeed - I always use the copperslip, I hate it when the brakes seize up!