Half Shaft Removal

[Trickydicky]

Hi,
I need to replace the nearside rear hub oilseal as the one in there is worn and leaking oil into the brake drum, after reading in the manual it states that to remove the halfshaft simply remove the phillips screw securing the halfshaft to the hub and draw out the shaft.
Now in my experience so far, jobs like this are not straight forward so my question is, after removing said screw what is the best method of removing the half shaft without damaging the paper gasket face? how do I start to lever out the shaft and remove it?

Also Is it possible to remove the rear hub without a hub extractor? if so then what is the best method to do this?
Should I replace the bearing while it is off? at the moment the bearing is fine, its just the oil seal that has failed.

In the past I have found that where a oil seal is located it sometimes wears a grove in the shaft, if I encounter this problem is it possible to either turn the seal around or move it forwards or backwards so it is sitting on a good portion of the hub shaft?

Finally, upon reassemblly would it be wise to pack the bearing with grease or should I just allow the oil in the diff to lubricate the bearing?

Thanks
Richard

[simmitc]

This is one job that really is that simple. You will be able to hold the edges of the flange and just pull the shaft out by hand. Do not try to re-use the gasket - clean the faces and use a new gasket. They are readily available, and not expensive. You may need a new rubber O-ring as well.

Are we talking early or late axle?

Once the nut has been undone (left hand thread on nearside, and use a proper socket, do not chew up the nut by using a chisel) the hub may pull off by hand. If not, I have found a slide hammer attached to a couple of studs will get the hub off with just one "thump", and no damage. If the bearing is not worn, then leave it alone. A little grease is a good idea, but do not pack, the bearing is lubricated by the oil. The seal runs on the axle tube, not the shaft. If there is a groove on the tube, then yes, you can slightly move the seal, or get a repair sleeve for the tube.

[bmcecosse]

The hammer/chisel works fine.......I bet the nut will already have a few scars on it. It won't be all that tight. And yes the shaft just slides out - then undo the nut. put the wheel back on and use it to wiggle/pull the hub off - it should slide easily. Note which way round the seal is sitting before you remove it - and yes you can slightly re-position the new one - but don't turn it round!

[Trickydicky]

Thanks guys,

Simmitc,it is a late axle,that Roy is one top tip, never thought of reattaching the wheel to help remove the hub!!!
This side of the car has been giving me a bit of grief lately, the reason I found the leak was due to the rear brakes binding.

I duly replaced the cylinders and shoes both sides, then while bleeding the brakes I found the flexible hose over the axle was looking a bit ropey, so while waiting for a new hose to arrive I thought it would be a good idea to replace the oil in the axle. When I drained it only about half a litre came out. Good job you decided to replace it Richard Job well done.

Feeling smug I replaced the hose, bled the brakes, took her out for a drive and was impressed with the change in acceleration and how it felt. Then I removed the wheels to readjust the brakes and found the leak I am hacked off not with both the leak and that I have ruined a perfectly good set of rear brake shoes......

Plus while doing the brakes I removed the dampers, flushed them out with oil to find that the seal on the near side damper is leaking too.

Ohh the joys of Morris Minor motoring

[kennatt]

well I suspect that the oil seal is fine,its a common problem that when you remove the rear wheel,oil can get out of the flange joint into the drum, since the wheel nuts actually pull the joint tightly together,the little grub screws that are supposed to do this are not very effective,I ALLWAYS jack up one side of the rear before removing the wheel so that the oil runs the otherway,and avoid the temptation to jack up from the diff to both side at once.Its even more likely once you have pulled the half shafts they take a bit of resealing ,its why on later models they intoduced the O ring,but even that is not that good.

[MarkyB]

the little grub screws that are supposed to do this are not very effective

I think they are there to locate everything, not to apply a lot of pressure.

[Trickydicky]

Its definetly the oil seal, as oil is coming from the back of the hub shaft and not the half shaft seal.
Incidently while working on the rear doing the brakes etc, I jacked up the car from the center of the diff and sat it down on equally on stands.

Kennat,where are the grub screws you mention? the parts diagrams I have seen do not show them?

Richard

[bmcecosse]

Not a 'grub' screw - just a countersunk head screw..

[Trickydicky]

Thanks Roy,

Getting worried about the grubscrews...

Regarding the top tip for removing the rear hub, maybe you should publish a book of Tips and Tricks?

[bmcecosse]

All old and tried knowledge - and all on the forum somewhere.............

[kennatt]

yes countersunk don't know where grub screw came from,The bearings are intended to be lubricated via the axle oil no need for anything else,thats why you need to be careful,when taking wheels off cause the hub is filled with oil so can run out into the drums.

[MarkyB]

When you come to replace the half shaft it wont just slide into position, you need to lift the inboard end to go into the diff and probably turn it a little so the splines engage.